Plane refinishing idea and question re: heat. Need some advice.

[tommy han]

So I've built up a small collection of some older user hand planes: Stanleys #4, 5, 6, and 7, along with a couple small block planes and a spokeshave.

None of them were in incredible condition and I wanted to run them through the full treatment to get them restored and up to working order. Bathed some pieces in electrolysis, used Evaporust on others, tried "The Works" a la Christopher Schwarz on one and have a couple in a molasses bath right now (we'll see how that works). In any case, I wanted to remove any japanning that was on them because none of them are really collectible-grade and I'd rather have a fully cleaned plane that I know what has and has not been done to it.

So I'm coming up to the point of refinishing and I'm not really SUPER in love with the look of black painted cast iron. I wanted my planes to have a look that would set them apart a bit, and I realized that I LOVE how the pieces looked after coming out of the electrolysis bath: bare cast iron with a beautiful gunmetal "industrial" look. And that got me to thinking...What if I "seasoned" them like a cast iron pan with some flaxseed oil (edible raw linseed oil) instead of painting with engine enamel? From what I've read, 5 or 6 coats gives a beautiful aged-looking patina, which I think would look just awesome.

But here's where my big question comes in: To season properly and get the oil to polymerize effectively, you need to heat the iron to about 500 degrees in your oven. Do you guys think putting a plane body in a 500 degree oven for an hour, and then repeating 4 or 5 times, should cause any harm? How about the lever cap? (I have 1 from a newer #7 that looks like it has a zinc coating, which obviously wouldn't be put in the oven) I wonder if the thin tensioning leaf might go "soft" from the repeated heatings.

Has anyone tried doing something like this? Has anyone even ever thought of it?

Thanks in advance,
Tommy

[george wilson]

Why use edible linseed? I have used it for varnish making,but just for rubbing on metal I think boiled would be fine. Someone else here said that edible dried for him. Of course,that was on wood,and it's maybe possible that it just soaked in.

You don't want the oil to get built up like a finish. I think a thin rubbed on coat of mineral spirits allowed to sink in and wiped off would be fine. If you've succeeded in completely de greasing the iron,it will very soon rust. That is guaranteed. Happens when sand blasting cast iron. The iron rusts like crazy.

I would not recommend heating to 500º. You might stress relieve the thin castings,and warp them.

[tommy han]

I was using edible linseed because I wanted to cure it in my oven. I'm not about to put commercially-produced BLO with chemical driers in my kitchen oven. I also didn't want to just "rub on, rub off" because all the formerly-japanned surfaces will probably get a lot of hand contact. Curing a coat of flaxseed to the point of polymerization, and subsequently building layers of it, would provide much more long-term protection which is my ultimate goal. I guess I may not have specified before, but I'm looking to create the "no worry" layer of protection like paint while still maintaining the look of raw or patinated iron.

[george wilson]

Looks like you have already figured out everything you want to do.


I polymerized my edible linseed oil OUT DOORS on an electric hot plate. Just bring it to a BARE simmer for 20 minutes. Mine turned a deep gold color when polymerized. Why do you think you need to heat it to that point while ON the plane?

Use a deep pan and only put a fairly small amount of oil in it,say 1". It can suddenly foam up and will boil over before you can withdraw the pan,creating a big ball of fire. Keep your face LOW and away from over the pan while doing the simmering.

[Joe A Faulkner]

What about T9 Boeshield followed by TopCote? Suggested here for tablesaw tops: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/rust-prevention/

Not sure if hte Boeshield darkens the metal.

[tommy han]

Looks like you have already figured out everything you want to do.


I polymerized my edible linseed oil OUT DOORS on an electric hot plate. Just bring it to a BARE simmer for 20 minutes. Mine turned a deep gold color when polymerized. Why do you think you need to heat it to that point while ON the plane?

Use a deep pan and only put a fairly small amount of oil in it,say 1". It can suddenly foam up and will boil over before you can withdraw the pan,creating a big ball of fire. Keep your face LOW and away from over the pan while doing the simmering.


George-

May have to try that. I'd read about boiling your own linseed or flaxseed on another website...do you monitor the oil temp or just go by the "simmer" method? Where do you get your flaxseed oil? Just in the small bottles at the health food store?



What about T9 Boeshield followed by TopCote? Suggested here for tablesaw tops: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/rust-prevention/

Not sure if hte Boeshield darkens the metal.

Joe-

In my experience with Boeshield on bike chains, it is NOT a "coat and forget" lube. In other words, you have to re-apply periodically, which is what I'm trying to get away from.

Bear in mind, I'm only talking about the coating on all the previously japanned surfaces.

[John Coloccia]

If you just want to age them a bit, couldn't you just rub them with a cloth dampened with diluted vinegar?

[tommy han]

I want corrosion protection while keeping a sort of "raw metal" look. Essentially a clear coat on the raw cast iron. I was just really drawn to the idea of a "baked-on" finish with flaxseed oil because it's so classic: Who hasn't ever seen a seasoned cast iron pan?

[tommy han]

Maybe I should just try and find a cheap POS to try it out on...

So, does anyone have a sacrificial body they would like to donate to the cause? :-)

[george wilson]

I used to get a pint bottle for $2.50 at the health food store. Now,you get a 1 cup plastic bottle at Walmart for about $8.50. Yes,I just simmered mine,no thermometer,though you could use one.

[tommy han]

I used to get a pint bottle for $2.50 at the health food store. Now,you get a 1 cup plastic bottle at Walmart for about $8.50. Yes,I just simmered mine,no thermometer,though you could use one.


$2.50???!??! ​Man, the small bottle I bought cost almost twenty bucks!!!

[george wilson]

That price was back in the 70's and 80's when I was doing a lot of experimenting with making varnish,and re creating old recipes. $20.00 is too much. Try Walmart.

[Jim Neeley]

Maybe I should just try and find a cheap POS to try it out on...

So, does anyone have a sacrificial body they would like to donate to the cause? :-)

Tommy,

Would a grumpy neighbor count????? <g>

Jim in Alaska

[Georg Zudoff]

Hi Tommy,
And how about stickness of oil films? It seems to, corrige my mistakes if I is nor right, nice good films you can get if you put hot, very hot piece of steel or your plane into a can woth oil. Tempering.
As regarding me - I prefer nice good american product Hummerite, I suppose you know it.

Almost 25 years ago, when in Soviet Union was total deficit of normal paints and oils, some man used an epoxy for defending "raw metal" on the their cars bottoms. They sanded a piece of metal sheet and after - 1) acetone for oil and fats removing ; 2) solution of epoxy in acetone for easy painting. This epoxy film was enough well gard.

[Jim Koepke]

Maybe I should just try and find a cheap POS to try it out on...

So, does anyone have a sacrificial body they would like to donate to the cause? :-)

Tommy,

Welcome to the Creek. Your profile doesn't show your location. If you are near me, we could get together and dig through my Pile OS as I know there are one or two in there that are junk. They likely are not worth the cost of shipping, plus they may be used for other ideas after the testing.

Not sure one would prove that another might not have problems.

Why not spray with a clear enamel if clear is your choice?

Some folks here have customized their planes by painting in different colors.

For me, the feel of a good coat of paint is so much better than the feel of chipped paint of rough iron.

Thought some may feel it is sacrilege, my feeling is the color should be at the choice of the owner.

jtk

[Tom Vanzant]

Tommy,
For an aged patina on your plane after you have stripped off the Japaning, apply a rifle cold-blue solution (more gray than blue) and use a fine abrasive pad to reduce it to the color that suits you, then coat very thinly with TruOil stock finish, literally a wipe on/wipe off application. After a few days to cure completely, buff to suit. You end up with a very attractive dark patina.

[daniel lane]

Tommy (et al.) -

I first read a lot about this sort of metal treatment on a blog entry (http://sherylcanter.com/wordpress/2010/01/a-science-based-technique-for-seasoning-cast-iron/) about seasoning cast iron skillets - I'd always done the Crisco thing, and was learning about the 'right' way. Later, I read about this again on the Benchcrafted blog (http://benchcrafted.blogspot.com/2011/09/omega-3-fatty-acid-for-your-cast-iron.html), after buying the hardware for my Moxon vise. Most amusing thing was that Benchcrafted linked to the first blog! Guess my earlier research was well-sourced. :) Also, note that the Benchcrafted blog entry also referenced their efforts with bluing/oil.


daniel

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

My mind wanders to having them powder coated clear at a spray shop . . .