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Dick Howard
05-08-2003, 5:59 PM
Terry, A couple other ideas I'd like to run by you. I have a Grizzly 1023SL that has the dust port on the same side as your saw. I am thinking, if I put onr on the opposite side, I could eleminate 180 deg of turns in the duct. Do you think that would gain enough increased air flow to make it wort while? Am going with 6" pvc for the ducting.
Another thought is, should I change the bottom of the cabinet to slant toward the new dust port?
Thanks in advance for your advice on this. I hope to do it right. I want the duct work to be compatable with the cyclone when I can do that.
Anyone else feel free to jump in with ideas/advice.
Dick from Emmett, Idaho

Dennis Peacock
05-08-2003, 7:18 PM
<img src="http://home.alliancecable.net/~woodworker/tsdchookup.jpg"><BR>

I didn't want a bunch of turns in my hookup either and this way has worked out extremely well.

Dick Howard
05-08-2003, 7:25 PM
Looks good Dennis. I'll keep it in mind. Nice transition to pvc. Did you use the pvc2729?

Terry Hatfield
05-09-2003, 1:58 AM
Dick,

Yes, you could move the outlet port to the other side but I don't think you have enough room below the motor cover for 6" flange. Will have to measure my saw to make sure. If you do move it you will need to slant the shelf the other way. It would be better than the way I have mine. I was just too cheap to buy another clean out door.

Dennis came up with a great idea on his saw's dust port. He paid attention to where the dust "naturally" went with no collector and cut the hole in that exact area. He has the best idea I've seen. He used the PVC 2729(we call it S&D 'round these parts"). I helped him put his system in. He has a 78' duct run to the TS and it still works great.

The dust actually goes into the hood and duct if the cyclone is not even on!!!

Thanks,

Terry

Mac McAtee
05-09-2003, 10:22 AM
Why worry about the slant, direction of slant, lack of slant or even where the dust naturally falls? There is absoulutly no reason to get every drib and drop of wood dust out of the pleneum in the bottom of a woodworking machine.

Let the dust fall where it may. It will build up where there is no air flow and not build up where there is air flow. It will form it's own natural slope inside the pleneum and once that is established you will suck every fragment of wood dust more than that out and down the pipe to the disposal area. The stuff will take care of it's self.:confused:

dntsdad
05-09-2003, 11:08 AM
I have thought about the same thing on my 1023. If I ran the hose to the stock port I would trip on it all the time. I have not even measured to see if it will fit but I am going to run mine to the right side of the saw as well. If a 6" starter flange will not mount there, one could make a rectangular port out of sheet metal with a transition to a 6"round much like the 4x10 to 6" adapters we use for the inlets on the Dust Eliminator cyclones.

I will have to investigate further ( i.e. ask Terry or Bill) when I get to that stage, hopefully this weekend or early next week.

Just my $.02
Jason

Scott Coffelt
05-09-2003, 11:34 AM
I have my piping/hose running to the left side of the saw, around the back of the saw and then it goes verticle on the back right corner. Since I have an outfeed table, I never find it in the way. I would love to shorten the run, but I just don't like the idea of cutting additional holes in my $1000 saw.

I plan to change out the current 4" piping and go to hard piping, it will require two 90's at the machine, but with the power of the cyclone I will live with the extra pipe length. Even with the this design the pipe is not in the way as it is under the table extensions or behind the saw.

Derek Arita
05-09-2003, 12:34 PM
Dennis, could you go into more detail as to what, how and why you did you what you did for dc on you saw. I have the same saw and would love the info.

Terry Hatfield
05-09-2003, 12:59 PM
Mac,

I totally agree with you!!

Some dust buildup in the bottom of the TS makes no difference at all. We are just trying to make our DC systems the best they possibly can be.

Thanks,

Terry

Dennis Peacock
05-10-2003, 1:37 AM
Derek,

Even though my saw was $1500 from a local supplier....I decided that I wanted the best possible dust collection at the TS that I could get and is the reason why I worked and thought long and hard about getting as straight a connection to the PVC as possible while keeping it out of my working path in the shop. I just don't like having to step over pipes laying on the floor and makes for a safer shop and a cleaner hookup as well. I believe that the flange on the back of the saw I used was a 6 by 8 to 6 with bend down tabs on the inside. I then used a single 45 degree elbow in conjunction with a 22.5 degree elbow to get a nice smooth tranistion from the back of the saw to the PVC. The flange hole was cut directly behind the saw blade (centered) and at a slight angle to provide high up and low down collection points during milling or cutting processes.

I did try several other options with various fittings to see if I could use one on the same side as the existing 4" dust port on the outside of the saw.....In order to get it flush with the bottom of the dust plenum and still be able to open the door to access the motor.....would be a near disaster as most of the metal above the plenum floor would have to be cut away and I didn't want to weaken the side of the saw any way....Besides that, I would have had a LOT of large pipe sticking out the side of the saw that I would always be bumping into and possibly dropping a piece of lumber onto it and damaging the pipeing or fitting.

Thus the hookup on the back side of the saw....much better collection while sawing, no pipe to be in the way, minimal cutting of the saw cabinet and with my outfeed table pushed up near the saw...the pipe and connection to the saw can't be seen at all. I was also after maximum air flow at the TS since it was almost 80 feet from the saw to the cyclone.....I still get about 1,048 CFM at the saw...real numbers and no hype or fudging of numbers. Terry's Magnahelic Guage just don't fudge very well.. :-)

Derek Arita
05-10-2003, 2:46 PM
Dennis,
Could you please explain to me exactly why you have the dust port situated in the position it is in. Do you have any dust gathering inside? Do you have any other add-ons inside the cabinet to help direct the dust?

Dennis Peacock
05-11-2003, 10:39 AM
Originally posted by Derek Arita
Dennis,
Could you please explain to me exactly why you have the dust port situated in the position it is in. Do you have any dust gathering inside? Do you have any other add-ons inside the cabinet to help direct the dust?

Derek,

Sure....basically because that is where I put it. There ain't no engineering behind it....except that

1. its EXACTLY in the middle of the saw blade
2. I couldn't get it to work with the existing DC port
3. I couldn't get it to work on the opposite side of the DC port as the plenum pan was too high on that end.
4. The plenum pan needed to stay inside the saw to help make a good seal in the bottom of the saw.
5. To maintain as much a straight shot with piping as possible.
6. Reduced the cost a little as I didn't have to have all kinds of funky angles, elbows and various metal fittings to make it happen.

It is there because I needed a LOT of air flow in the cabinet to provide me max DC at the TS at the end of almost 80' of pipe AND if I put it on either side of the saw.....I would have either be walking on, stepping on it, stumbling over it or it would have been in the way of the tilt wheel on the opposite side of the saw.

Clear as mud? :-)