any experience with metal building and osb walls?

[mark kosse]

Howdy all,

Just finished the new shop and found some 7/16 osb for a good price of 7.00/sheet. Anyone used osb for walls in their metal shops? The builder seemed to think it may warp and I really don't want to frame out in between the metal studs if I don't have too. I was thinking 1X3's at the sheet joints.

Anyone have experience with this?

Thanks, Mark

[Dennis Ford]

I have used it but I did frame out with 2 x 4s. Without framing, it would be flimsy.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Ditto Dennis. Unless the edges are on beams, it would be floppy.

[phil harold]

Howdy all,

Location houston tx

Thanks, Mark
frame it out and INSULATE
you will be happy you did

[David A Anderson]

You need framing 16" OC. It would be too flimsy otherwise.

[Tom Clark FL]

Mark,

I did just what you are thinking about in 2011. Also divided the building into three rooms. I had the building contractor add the max insulation they offered, then put 2" thick styrofoam over that. 2x4s are cheap! I used 24" spacing since the studs really don't support much. The floor 2x4s were screwed down with tap cons. The uppers were screwed to the metal, the studs nailed in with a framing nailer, then the 7/16 usb was put up with a nail gun. It took two coats of Kilz primer to cover the osb, but it rolled on quick and sure is worth it to brighten up the shop.

My shop has heat and air, and is so well insulated that the cost is minimal. Payback for the walls and insulation will be very quick. My last shop in FL did not have the interior walls, and heat and air was very expensive!

[mark kosse]

Tom,

If I had walls like yours I'd frame it out no problem. I have 6" gurts @ ground level, 4', 7'6" and 11'. That would be a lot of cutting and framing will be a real pita trying to screw it all to steel. Since none of the wood framing would be structural, I think I'm going to put 1X3's at the joints and 1X4's at the 2' centers just screwed to the osb. That should keep the osb from buckling too much, I hope.

[Steve Milito]

Tom,

If I had walls like yours I'd frame it out no problem. I have 6" gurts @ ground level, 4', 7'6" and 11'. That would be a lot of cutting and framing will be a real pita trying to screw it all to steel. Since none of the wood framing would be structural, I think I'm going to put 1X3's at the joints and 1X4's at the 2' centers just screwed to the osb. That should keep the osb from buckling too much, I hope.

If 'gurds' means girder or structural steel beam then
I'd use a power actuated gun and pin the studs to the steel.

[Jim Andrew]

My steel building has horizontal wall purlins, about 2 x 4 sized laying flat. They are not heavy enough to use the nails, but would probably have to drill a hole before fastening with screws. Mine are on 2' centers, and probably a flat 1x4 screwed vertical between the metal purlins would work to make the joints solid, in my case.

[phil harold]

If 'gurds' means girder or structural steel beam then
I'd use a power actuated gun and pin the studs to the steel.
Tek screws would work

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=1131825

[mark kosse]

This reply is for anyone who may stumble across this situation in their own metal building.

I have installed the OSB to the 2X6 steel gurters in my building. Since no span of OSB was greater than 42" (7.5' minus 6" for the gurts) I added 2X2"s at 2' spacing, screwed with 2" screws to the OSB only. This made the OSB which was then screwed to the gurters, very rigid. There is no give to it. If you try to make the OSB give, you have to shake the whole wall to get any movement. I am confident it will stand up to time, even in the Texas heat. I'll post back in November what heat and cold may have brought on. My guess is it will still look the same.