Value of 1998 Unisaw Never Used

[Michael Dromey]

I would like to some input here. What do you think the value of a 1998 Unisaw Platnium Edition with mobile base that was never used be? What do you think would be a fair price? I am slowly getting rid of cheap power tools. I am thinking of purchasing this one. Post what you think. I saw this on craigslist. I am curious what you will post. I haven't seen it yet. So I don't know what condition it is in. I will find out what the asking price is then post it.

Mike

[Bruce Page]

Mike, what is the table size and which fence? 3hp?

[Michael Dromey]

The ad didn't say about table size. I assume the fence is a Bes. Not sure.

[Mike Heidrick]

$800-$1000 for a single phase 3hp-5hp - that is what it would be worth to me.

[Dick Mahany]

I bought one of those US made platinum edition Unisaws about that time. Had a 52" Bies fence and extension table. 3 hp single phase. Cost me $1800 US without tax and free shipping ( from Tool Crib before they turned into Amazon) . If I could buy another for half the price, I'd jump on it.

Edit: Delta isn't what it used to be back then and spare parts availability is a widely reported problem now. I still have mine and see no reason to ever change to another saw, but I'm concerned about what may happen if it ever breaks and I need parts.

[Kim Gibbens]

His ad says that it needs a new table board. My unisaw that I bought new in 98 has the 50" table and I believe it is particle board. Hard to believe that it is unused from his description. Ad header says $1500 and body of ad says $1600. I think he's a little high on his price at either of those price points. Plus you're looking at a 6 hour round trip. Still a nice saw. You can always offer lower and go up.

Kim

[Paul McGaha]

$800-$1000 for a single phase 3hp-5hp - that is what it would be worth to me.

I agree with Mike's price range. That's about what it would be worth to me. That sounds a lot like my saw except mine was bought about 2002. Mine doesn't have a mobile base. My saw is the Platinum color, 3 HP, 52" Biesmeyer fence. Cost about $1,700 back then if I remember correctly. No riving knife. Mine has a Biesmeyer splitter.

Good luck with it. Love mine. It's been a pleasure to own it and use it.

PHM

[Michael Dromey]

Well I found out he is asking $1600. I thought that was high. I was thinking $1000 or slightly less would be fair. I now have a cheap Craftsman contractors saw. Boy did I think it was worth gold when I bought it. It is the biggest pile of metal I have ever had. I wanted to use other words. As far as I am concerned the Unisaw one of or possible the best saw ever made. We will see what the new owners of Delta does to the brand.

[Rich Riddle]

$1500 or $1600 seems high, but $800 to $1000 seems low. I have a 2002 Unisaw with 3HP motor, 50" extension, professional fence, and mobile base. It certainly isn't new. I was going to list it when my new saw arrives in March/April but mentioned it to a few folks. Two woodworkers offered me more than $1000 as soon as they learned it would be sold.

There were countless local ads for cabinet saws when I looked, and $1000 saws were junk. Personally, for less than $1000 the Unisaw would be kept as a good backup with no reservations. If I had a chance to purchase a never used or lightly used and very well-maintained Unisaw of that vintage, $1200 to $1300 would seem a fair range to both the buyer and seller.

[Cary Falk]

A similar discussion came up a few weeks ago and got pretty heated. That saw does not have a warranty even thought it has never been used so that is the same as used to me. What it went for in 1998 is not important. I have tools that went up in value and could get the same amount for them used that I paid for them new. The Unisaw is not one of them. The Delta name is not what it was. Parts are hard to come by through the new Delta. This is a left tilt saw more than likely and you can't find parts on the used marked as easily as the right tilt ones that had interchangable parts back to 1939. I'm not going to give you a price other than what the guy is asking is way too much. Location is a big part of the equation. What you have to do is weigh the cost of a used Uni with no warranty, no riving knife, and poor dust collectoin to a G1023 delivered for $1400. If you wait for a sale you can get it for about $1250. I know everybody is going to jump on me and say "But it's is a Uni....blah, blah,... build quality,.....blah, blah, blah." I have had both. They are in the same class of saws in every way, shape, and form. I no longer have the Uni. In the end though, you will not be able to tell which projects I made on my Delta contractor saw, Uni or Grizzly. They all cut the same.

[Rich Riddle]

Cary,

It sounds as though you have a personal agenda against the Unisaw. I currently own one being replaced but have nothing against the old one being sold; it served as a good saw. Very few Unisaws were left-tilt, so to say it likely is left-tilt is highly inaccurate; most are right-tilt models with a vast array of parts available. A warranty is a nice selling point but rarely utilized. The Unisaw in question isn't a "new Unisaw" variety, so the reputation of the "new Unisaw" variety doesn't have anything to do with the one being pondered. My Unisaw has adequate dust collection abilities. The riving knife presents your most valid argument, but that's at the discretion of a buyer and not for anyone else to determine. Very few saws built back then had riving knives, but my Inca does.

The argument that one cannot tell what tool was used to make a project presents logical fallacies including appeals to emotion and consequences. It's similar to saying one cannot tell how one arrived at work, either by driving a Yugo in rush hour or being chauffeured in a limousine. Both employees arrived at work. While the looks of a project might end up similar, the time, effort, and energy to get to the same level can be enormously different. That's why many of us upgrade tools.

I am neutral on Grizzly products but don't own any of their tools. I almost purchased one last week though. Their reputation has significantly increased through the years and they seem to be rebadging products of higher quality. Only time will tell if Grizzly keeps models long enough to develop the supply of parts needed to sustain repairs. Do you know how long the G1023 has been produced?

[Cary Falk]

Rich,
I have nothing against the Uni. I restored a 1970 on and kept it for 2 years. I had a snap in splitter but i wanted a riving knife and a blade shroud for dust collection. I am guessing left tilt due to the year it was made. I don't know exactly when the switch was made so I said likely. I am not talking about "new Uni" vs "old Uni". I am talking about Old Delta vs New Delta. If this saw is new never been used it may very well have missing parts. I bought a new Delta 14" bandsaw in 2005 that had missing parts righ out of the box. If that is the case with this Uni then good luck getting any response or parts from the "New Delta" because the parts were not sold with the company from what I have heard.

My main issue is with people that want to compare a 14" Oliver old arn table saw to a Grizzly cabinet saw and say that the build quality sucks because they don't build them like they used to. What they need to be doing is comparing a Uni to a G1023 and then they would see that both saws are in the same category. What happens is that the word Grizzly is mentioned and 50 people chime in with "Grizzly sucks" because they heard of a guy that bought a Grizzly 30 years ago and the fit and finish was bad ot that it broke. I have had both a Uni and a G1023RL and I can honestly say that they are comparable saws. Not many people can say that but it does not stop them.

The whole parts availability is SOMEWHAT silly. You have people restoring old machines by having parts cast and using comparable parts from Grizzly. A lot of the old companies are not around anymore to supply parts but that does not stop people fro restoring them. Machines change so fast and companies get bought and sold on a regular basis so I don't think anybody is safe. At this point, Jet, Delta, Grizzly, Steel City, PM, etc are coming out of the same factory and a lot of parts are interchangable.

My whole point of my post was that the saw is only worth what the buyer/seller agree on. Mike needs to weigh all the options of new vs used and what is availabe in his neck of the woods. I was throwing out and option to put some perspective on the current used asking price. If Mike's lifelong dream is to own a Uni then have at it. I just think it is old technology and not worth the preminum. At the right price it is worth it. Only Mike can determine what that price is because the numbers in this thread will be all over the place. I'm in at $750.

[phil harold]

That was the year I bought my Tablesaw
I compared the Delta to the Jet They were both only 1399 from the local tool/equipment store
I bought the Jet because it included a mobile base for free and a 100 dollar rebate, I also like the exacta fence better the the biesmeyer (personal preference)
If I had to do it again I would buy a used sliding table saw

I look at prices of used unisaws and see they are higher that what I could have paid when I bought mine in 1998
Grizzly G1023 was considered but did not have a bies copy fence at the time (I have an 8" joiner from griz that I love)

A new uni is 3200 bucks that price I believe is riding on its laurels
At times I think that Delta name plate provides the feeling of a premium brand, and there are many other quality Taiwanese and Chinese products out here that command less money

I am with Gary on this there is no warranty no riving knife

Bottom line is just a table saw, and all that really matters is having a good fence
for many years before I bought my jet I used a Makita in a Rousseau table, Great fence!
you can not tell the difference in the quality of projects from between the too

My cabinet saw was bought just so there would be one at permanently setup in the shop
the mass does make it easy to work with than my makita
If I had to buy again I would consider this

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3HP-220V-Cabinet-Table-Saw-with-Long-Rails-Riving-Knife/G0691
or what I originally bought
http://www.amazon.com/708663PK-JTAS-10XL50-W1-3-Horsepower-Extension-230-Volt/dp/B0000223L6

[John McClanahan]

I would look at Grizzly, too.

John

[Terry Barnhill]

It would probably bring 1400 here in E TX, if it's in top shape. General used ones sell in the 1k -1.2k all the time.

i don't understand the folks who think the value should be based on the original selling price, instead of today's market value. $1400 worth in 1998 would take $1950+ today to buy.

[Brian Brightwell]

Apparently I thought this one was worth $1000. However, I didn't have to go far to get it.

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy11/bebrightwell/078_zps36cfb691.jpg

[Will Rowland]

FWIW, 3 years ago I bought an essentially unused circa 2000 52" 3 hp Unisaw Platinum Edition with Biesemeyer fence and mobile base for $1200. There were a few buyers lined up behind me at that price.

After I bought it I did spend ~$200 outfitting it with the Biese splitter and a Sharkguard. The Biese splitter is a necessity for that saw, in my opinion.

[Brian Brightwell]

It would probably bring 1400 here in E TX, if it's in top shape. General used ones sell in the 1k -1.2k all the time.

i don't understand the folks who think the value should be based on the original selling price, instead of today's market value. $1400 worth in 1998 would take $1950+ today to buy.

I agree and still they say inflation is not a problem?

[Mark Ashmeade]

The reality is that it is worth what someone is willing to pay for it. If they are looking at buying it and keeping it for 20+ years, then it doesn't really matter what it costs, within reason. If on the other hand they think they may get out of it in a shorter period, then they will seek to pay less than what they think they can sell it for. If there are no other buyers, they will likely succeed.

I paid 3 grand for my saw, but I'm not looking to sell it any time soon. On the other hand, I bought a planer for $250 and sold it for $300 a couple weeks later.

[Brett Bobo]

Not to detract from the OP but for those of you who believe the prices of used tools should be based on today's market value, can you please explain why and at what percentage of today's market value? Keep in mind I'm referring to the tools that are a dime a dozen, not some one-off collector's item. I'm struggling to see the logic in this argument. For example, let's say I had a 2003 F-150 truck to sale. Using the same argument, I would price the truck based on the market value, with some reduction in price for being used, of a 2013 F-150 because that's what it would cost someone in the market for a new truck. To me, that's counter-intuitive. Help me understand the reasoning. I'll be selling a 8" jointer in the next few weeks and I would be tickled pink if I was able to recoup a majority of my investment.

[Bill Wyko]

Prices on large tools have gone up so much that you can, in some cases, get more than you paid fo them just a few years ago. I paid around $700.00 for a JET 1442vs lathe back in 2006. I recently sold it for $900.00. That same lathe now sells for aorund $1400.00, twice what I paid for it only7 years ago. (BTW, my 2004 cummins diesel truck is worth what I paid for it in 05)

I also have to say, check out Grizzly. You ca get a 5hp saw for under $1500.00 bucks. I have one of their 18" bandsaws and I love it. It has way more features than many BS's at twice the price and it's very well built.

[Julian Tracy]

"worth what someone will pay for it..." is the silliest thing I've ever heard of and it was brought up in another thread regarding a stationary ww tool's price.

It's worth what it's worth, accounting for differences in region, that region's economy, supply and demand, etc.

These days, I've found you've got to sit on items on CL for weeks and sometimes months to "find" the buyer willing to pay what an item is worth. But I sell everything I list, and I price them at their worth as I see it. Just because some low-rent offers me $250 for a $500 toolbox doesn't mean that's what it's worth, it just means that's all it's worth to him.

In my area, it'd probably bring $1000-1350, but the main variable is how long you'll have it listed. Seller's motivation dictates that amount of time.

As to value based on original price or current retail, above poster is correct - prices have increased so much that using original retail is pointless. Take the instance of my Delta X5 6" Jointer. Years ago, I paid about $475 for it maybe. These days, they run close to $1000.00. Used in great condition, I can sell it (and have sold another I've had) at between $440-500.

Buyers decide to buy used or older because they are referencing what the items will cost them today if bought new. Nobody looking at buying a new drill press considers what they sold for in 1997, they simply see what it'd cost them to buy today.

You factor in the fact that most items were made better in years past (Grizzly excluded) and the buying of older equipment seems a better value all around.

Equating ww equipment with used vs. new cars is silly too.
Used cars have their own worth frame of reference that is closer to real estate in how those values are determined and how they fluctuate. (supply/demand/incentives/clunker program, etc....)

JT

[Mark Ashmeade]

The '03 truck is worth a residual value, as long as it runs, that is a bit higher than the scrap value. That is because the useful life of it has been worked out. For every 15-year old F-150 you see on the roads, another 10 have gone to the scrapper. As long as it runs though, it will make a basic workhorse for the next few years. Replacement engines, transmissions, significant body parts etc will eventually make repair uneconomic, until the point that say a 30-yr old survivor then acquires rarity value.

For a jointer, what's to wear out? Bearings and blades. Maybe a switch every couple of decades. A 1960s Powermatic 60 will be worth more than it cost new. BUT, if you want the improvements on the 60B and the 60C, you will have to pay for them. Again, they are worth what people are willing to pay, and that is the bottom line.

[Julian Tracy]

No offense to members here, I'm one of them. But to ask members of ww forums what any given ww item is worth is gonna result in some low-ball offers or estimates.

We love deals here more than the average buyer. Most buyers on CL are not as in-tune to the kind of deals that folks here are.

I don't buy anything unless it's a great deal, but everything I sell is only a good deal.

JT

[Mark Ashmeade]

Julian - I think you have reinforced my point. If you can sell a widget for X, then that it what that widget is worth. If you think a widget is worth X and won't take less, then it is not worth X until/if it sells. At which point, you have proved that it is worth X, because someone has been willing to buy it for that.

Of course if you want to get out of an item quickly, you can sell it for less than what you think it is worth, but that's the seller's prerogative. Ultimately, the buyer sets the price. Numerous companies have failed to learn this lesson over the years.

[Bob Wingard]

I looked at this guy's Craigslist Ad ... VERY high pricing, and especially without any photos to make the slightest determination of his claims that everything is either new or perfect condition.

[Michael Dromey]

Well I am just getting around to viewing this post I started. I have fought the flu for the last week. I don't wish that on my worst enemey.

I guess what I see here are answers that are all over the board. My original intention wasn't to create any tensions. I was was just trying to get some input on what some of us thought this was worth. I see that we all have our opinions on what value and quality of tool makers. I personally will not purchase a Grizzly tool. I only have one Grizzly tool in my shop. That is a dust collector that was given to me. I think some of my opinion comes from years ago. I just simply didn't think they produced a quaility product, ease of use, etc. That is strictly my opinion. There has been some good points that were posted here. I guess I fall into the loyal Delta catagory. I have even though of a Olver. Thanks for your input and different view points.

[Chris Rosenberger]

My rule is that something I want to buy, is worth only what I am willing to pay for it.

That rule has served me for 40 plus years.

[Jim Matthews]

What does a new Sawstop cost?

The first finger you keep covers the price differential.
Have you considered the much cheaper tracksaw alternatives?

It's nice to put the track up on a rack instead of working around the large casting...

[CPeter James]

I have no brand loyalty. I have Powermatic, Delta, Jet, Grizzly, and even Wadkin in my shop. I just ordered some replacement parts for my 12 year old Grizzly metal lathe and had them in two days at very reasonable prices. Most of my stuff is what is known as "Old Arn" and I am active on the OWWM site, but if I were buying new, I would have to look at Grizzly. If someone asked my if they should buy ad 15 year old Grizzly tool, my answer would be to check it over very closely, but today, they are building quality tools and have the best service in the industry. Delta ( and I have many Delta machines) is riding on its name. It is owned by a Chinese company and the quality just is not there and after being sold several times the parts inventory has dried up.

CPeter

[Rich Riddle]

I thought the original poster had mentioned only one model and saw. I see numerous post focusing on other saws. It's one thing to comment about different options when the original poster asks about two or more choices but it's another when the original poster asks only about one. Isn't it best to answer the question asked rather than pontificate about your preferences? The original poster said he wanted a Delta. That wasn't my choice on buying a new saw, but it's his right to make that choice. We should respect that.

[Joseph Tarantino]

........ I now have a cheap Craftsman contractors saw. Boy did I think it was worth gold when I bought it. It is the biggest pile of metal I have ever had. I wanted to use other words. As far as I am concerned the Unisaw one of or possible the best saw ever made. We will see what the new owners of Delta does to the brand.

if you're c-man is an emerson built TS and it's not performing for you, there are probably two things wrong with it. (A) it probably has it's OEM fence, and if it's the one that only cuts to the right of the blade, it really isn't terribly good. a t2 would make that a new saw. or (B) it isn't set up properly. i have two saws of that type and kept them both over an "old arn" unisaw that i refurbished and ultimately sold. i got it for $40 in gas money and wanted to see what all the hoopla about old unisaws was. and now that i have, i can say i've scratched that itch and don't miss the unisaw at all. you don't have to spend a lot of money to do fine woodworking.

[Michael Dromey]

Joeseph: I thought the same thing about the fence. But this saw is only about 12 years old or so. It is an import. I don't believe it is a Emerson made craftsman. When did they quit making saws for Craftsman?

[John Coloccia]

Now that they exist on every saw, I would not ever under any circumstances have a table saw in my shop that didn't have a riving knife. You couldn't give me a saw without a riving knife.