what size cross cut sled?

[Bill Sherman]

I'm making my first cross cut sled and from what I've seen they are made in all different sizes. What is the most common size? I'm thinking 24" x 32".

Thanks,
Bill

[John Schweikert]

I'm building one now, 24"x30". I see no right or wrong in the size. Whatever fits your saw top, allows enough clamping on either side for stops and enough depth of cut.

[Mark Wooden]

That's a good size. Mine is 20"x 34" ( the size of the scrap I had that day), open in front with a pivoting fence and I've have never wanted it wider. I have a miter bar with the tee washer mounted to it so it doesn't tip when past the balance point, which is very helpful.
I also use a false table on the drop side of the blade with a snug piece of maple in the mitre bar slot so it doesn't move easily. The whole thing is low tech, pretty simple ,works fine.

[Joseph Tarantino]

I'm making my first cross cut sled and from what I've seen they are made in all different sizes. What is the most common size? I'm thinking 24" x 32".

Thanks,
Bill

26+" deep is my suggestion. this will allow for room for squaring up base cabinet panels. i used this method, and it is dead on accurate:

https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t13945/

[glenn bradley]

The right depth is the depth that you want to cut. I have one that cuts to 22" (between fences) and one that cuts over 40" along with others.

[Joe Scharle]

I think that's a good size for your large sled. This one's 24 X 36 with a leading fence. I use Incra miter bars on my 'permanent' fixtures because you can dial in an exact fit. My smaller sleds usually have fences on both ends since they use both slots. Also, on this sled I've bored finger holes to help in pushing and pulling the sled. I have cut 30" panels on this, but now with a tracksaw, I won't have to do that again. And you will notice a table extension for additional support. My 1980 Shopsmith came with one and I've made a copy for all my saws since. Like Mark, I use a 'cutoff catcher' table to the left of the blade, but it's out of view here.

255189

[Myk Rian]

Depth of the sled should be determined by the distance from the blade, and front edge.
Then find a comfort zone when you have it pulled back. Someplace where it feels balanced.
You might make the first one deep, use it, and see if it feels good. If not, trim the back edge.

If you have T miter tracks, you can use the miter bar washer. What's that washer called?
Then you can make the sled deeper, as the washer will hold the back down.
Front being where you are.

[mike holden]

Make it! Make it simple but accurate, and then use it. Your use will tell you whether to make the next one larger or smaller. The next one is the one to put the bells and whistles on.
Mike

[Anthony Diodati]

That's a good size. Mine is 20"x 34"
I also use a false table on the drop side of the blade with a snug piece of maple in the mitre bar slot so it doesn't move easily. The whole thing is low tech, pretty simple ,works fine.

So in your case, as your standing in front of the saw, the sled only extends over to, and is even with , the left side of the blade?
Hope that makes sense.

Edit;

IOW not like the one Glen Bradley has.

Mine is like yours with the open front (well towards the rear of the saw) and the pivoting fence, so I can fine tune it.
I may have to do the false table on the drop side of the blade thing, sort of a zero clearance type thing.

[Bill Sherman]

Thanks guys. I think I'm going to make 24 x 34 to make use of the plywood I have. Is soft maple too soft for runners?

[Anthony Diodati]

don't know about that, but they say to cut the runners so they are 1/4 sawn.
I actually used UHMW plastic for my runner's.

[Art Mulder]

Make it! Make it simple but accurate, and then use it. Your use will tell you whether to make the next one larger or smaller. The next one is the one to put the bells and whistles on.

+1 on just making it and using it. A simple one is not terribly expensive at all. It is a very very useful addition to your saw.

However, my suggestion is to make TWO.

I plan to make a small one for my regular everyday use -- rarely do I cut something wider than 10" after all. And then I'll have a big one for the rare 18"+ cuts.

Check out woodgears for pointers and interesting ideas on making a small sled (http://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/small_sled.html).

[Ray Newman]

Joe Scharle: can you post some more info -- maybe pictures?? -- about fabricating and attaching your "table extension"? Looks very useful.

[Joe Scharle]

Joe Scharle: can you post some more info -- maybe pictures?? -- about fabricating and attaching your "table extension"? Looks very useful.

Not much to it, Ray. If you have a square tube Bies style fence, it's very simple. If the tube is round like my old Delta, it's a little more difficult requiring a 'hose clamp' tightener.

I recently replaced the original push toggle clamp with this self-adjusting one from Bessy. I do recommend it.
The clamp working against the backstop which rides in the channel between tube and table provide the lock.
The blue tape shims the extension table level with the saw table.
255233

Showing the alignment of the miter slots. I bought a T slot cutter last year to allow the miter gauge to travel through
both tables. When I use the big sled, I ignore the miter slot alignment and put it where it's needed.
255234

This one is 12 X 24 from melamine cabinet scrap. Plywood works too.
Some of the fellows in the NC club have made them less deep due to their height.
Any other questions, don't hesitate to ask. Good luck, Joe

[Ray Newman]

Thank you! Your idea just may come in handy. Again, thanks

[Rich Engelhardt]

Is soft maple too soft for runners?I used pine for mine and they're still doing fine.....LOL!
Honestly,,,,I didn't intend that to come out sounding like a Burma Shave sign :D

I did buy some Kreg aluminum runners that plan to use on the next sled though - once the pine runners on my present one work loose.
The way it looks though, the runners are going to outlast the sled. I used a thin kerf blade to make the initial cut and have now switched over to a full kerf blade.
The cut line is off just enough from being zero clearance that it affects the quality of the cut.

Re: size - build a big one. You can use the big one to make smaller ones.

[Paul Shaffer]

I have two, one about 15" deep and one 24.5" deep. The bigger one is great for squaring up base cabinets parts and such, but its a little bulky. I just built all the face frames for our kitchen and used the 15" deep one exclusively for crosscutting. It was such a joy and everything came out perfectly. I would have not wanted to cut all those pieces on the bigger sled. I used hard maple runners for both, one has the adjustable mouth opening from the Woodsmith Shop plans so you can widen it for dados, but I have never used that feature. The maple runners are fine, but there is definitely a little more play in them now (winter) versus when I made them this fall, even using quartersawn grain for the width. But I love them and don't know how I got along without them. Oh, and use the "5 cut" squaring method and digital calipers... Like I said, my faceframes all came out with 1/64" square across diagonals, even the 3x6 island without any fuss. Make one, any size, and you might get rid of your miter saw except for cutting rough lumber.

Cheers.

[Bobby O'Neal]

My opinion is that bigger is better. Whatever your table will support and balance is good to me. They aren't heavy and you may always come across a plywood cut that is fairly deep. Also a nice long fence for clamping stops.

[Ole Anderson]

I have several sleds, my first one was purpose made, quickly, to cut off 30" doors. It sat just to the left of the blade, I have a small one that sits just to the right of the blade. I have one that is for 45 degree frames. then I finally built my main sled which is 36" wide with 22-1/2" between the fences. The main sled is the only one that I took time to square the fence with the five cut method and a caliper. That one is heavy and is a beast to install and remove. As much as I use it with a fine Freud ultimate crosscut blade, I wish my shop had room for a second TS dedicated for the sled.

[Shawn Pixley]

I have a simple one I made originally for cabinet doors - 48" x 28". It is rough and utilitarian. I've been thinking of building a second smaller one with more accoutremnts such as Mitering blocks, small tapering jig, built-in hold downs, etc... My problem is where to store them.