I need table saw blade recommendations

[Trevor Roeder]

Tomorrow I'm getting the Rigid R4512 and wanting to get a rip blade for the table and a crosscut for my miter saw to use on plywood. I would like to keep each blade $40 or less if possible.

What do you recommend for each one?

[Gus Dundon]

I'm not sure but it would be best if you'll ask recommendation from the tech rep.

[Mike Nguyen]

I would get this http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/ProductPage2.aspx?id=2084481&ProdId=37097&

Mike

[Trevor Roeder]

I would get this http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/ProductPage2.aspx?id=2084481&ProdId=37097&

Mike

Thanks Mike for the link.

What about the freud diablo blades?

[Trevor Roeder]

I went ahead and ordered those blades, thanks again Mike for the link.

[Myk Rian]

When you get them, make sure they were made in Italy, and not in China.

[Trevor Roeder]

When you get them, make sure they were made in Italy, and not in China.

What if they are Chinese?

[Myk Rian]

Send them back.

[Trevor Roeder]

Send them back.

How bad are the Chinese blades?

[scott spencer]

The set from Woodcradft says "Made in Italy" right on the front of the blades. I don't know of any Chinese blades with the Freud name on them.

[Darius Ferlas]

How bad are the Chinese blades?
As bad as your Rigid R4512 which is also made in China, or about as bad as most Chinese made machines used by the members of this very forum.

[scott spencer]

As bad as your Rigid R4512 which is also made in China, or about as bad as most Chinese made machines used by the members of this very forum.

The newer "Avanti/Avanti Pro" series that's now sold at HD are Chinese junk. The Chinese made Oshlun and Tenryu blades are pretty decent, as is the R4512. It's not all the same quality.

[Jery Madigan]

At that price point, it is hard to beat Freud if you get the right ones.

[Bernie LeBlanc]

I'm not in my shop now, but if your looking to cut plywood or laminate, look for a plywood/laminate blade. I have a Freud laminate blade that rips and crosscuts laminates and plywood. Plywood is a collection of layered wood that is glued together in crisscross fashion so rip and crosscut blades are both problematic. There are basically 4 types of blades.
#1 is a crosscut blade designed to cut across the grain in lumber. The # of teeth determine the quality of the cut. The teeth in a crosscut blade are off set
and that is mean if you look down on the blade, the teeth slant from left to right in alternating fashion.
#2 is a rip blade designed to cut lumber along the grain (length of the board). These tend to have less teeth/inch but if you look down the barrel of this blade,
you will see the teeth are aligned in a straight line.
#3 is the combination blade or contractors blade. This blade can be a workhorse, The # of teeth are generally low and they can perform both cross cut rip
cuts so long as you're working in an acceptable lower grade cutting result. I always resort to this blade when cutting pine because it is expendable.
#4 is the plywood/ laminate blade designed to cut man made lumber.

All blades have a few things in common. First, the more teeth the better the or smoother the cut. Second, they all leave a smoother cut on the entry side of the blade. This means that on a table saw, splinters appear more readily on the bottom of the wood as it is laid on the table because the blade enters the wood on the top side and exits on the bottom. For a miter saw or skill saw, the opposite is true because in both tools. the blade enters the cut on top and exits on the bottom.

I know I gave you lots of technical information but don't be discouraged. Both blades you bought have their purposes and you will use them in the future.

[Jim O'Dell]

Scott, do you still have your charts on saw blades up and available? I remember it being some very good reading back when I was making decisions on blades. I bet most of those models would still be the same.
Trevor, keep in mind that the accessories for a tool are a lot like the programs for a computer. Most people end up with more money in programs they use on their computer than the computer cost. Same holds true, to a lesser degree maybe, for our woodworking tools. Don't scrimp on your blades. You will be disappointed in the outcome of your projects, or with how much extra work (read as sanding) you have to do to the wood to make it usable after the cut. Maybe start out with a nice combination blade, and add blades as you need them. I still don't have a dedicated rip blade or nice dado blade, but I know which ones I want. The saw may come with a 40 or 50 tooth combination blade. I remember my Ridgid 3612 saw had one. If not, ask if HD will throw one in when you purchase the saw. All they can do is say no. If they decline to toss in a blade, you haven't lost a thing. The first blade I bought was a Systi-matic 80 tooth melamine/laminate blade for crosscuts. Then a nicer combo blade. I'm using my wobble dado blade left over from my RAS, and while not great, it is fine for pine shop structures. When I finally get to start on cabinetry work for the house, I will get the Infinity Dadonator for fine work.
Lots of people here like the Freud blades. I've not used one on my TS, but have one for my circular saw, and it works great. Also, start watching blades on Amazon, and other online suppliers. I ended up with a 30 tooth Forrest Woodworker II thin kerf blade for the contractor saw for about 53 bucks. It is selling for just shy of 95 right now on Amazon. There are deals to be had if you are patient, and have the time. Jim.

[Paul McGaha]

I would get this http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/ProductPage2.aspx?id=2084481&ProdId=37097&

Mike

Looks like a pretty nice pair of Freud blades to me. Sharply priced at about $60. All my blades and dado set are from Freud. They've done well. The blades in the picture are marked made in Italy.

I think that is a really good choice.

PHM

[Ronald Blue]

I haven't found any Freud Diablo blades at HD that weren't made in Italy. I have 2 of the thin kerf ripping blades.