sawstop zero clearance insert

[Kevin Guarnotta]

anyone use those - zero clearance inserts from infinity cutting tools - http://www.infinitytools.com/SawStop-Zero-Clearance-Throat-Plate-With-Two-Inserts/productinfo/100-335/

I was thinking of getting it, but was hoping to hear some unbiased reviews.

thanks.

[Kevin Womer]

Pros:
Accepts inserts that can accommodate up to afull stack dado set.
Cheaper to make several inserts than to buy additional throat plates for each blade (or width of dado) you need.
Made of anodized aluminum, nicely finished.
Will accept the SS handle on the newer version of throat plates (and locks down).
Will not trip the brake (I have used it fora couple of months).

Cons:
Expensive up front, but will pay for itself over time (you won’t ever need another throat plate).
You will have to use the metal lockdown off ofthe OEM throat plate and a couple of
screws that aren’t included (they will not supply them despite a call to the company).

Overall, I like it and it is the only one I have heard of that works on SawStop table saws.

[Kevin Guarnotta]

thanks....

[Clay Fails]

Here is my frustrating Infinity ZCI story for my Sawstop ICS: the first plate rhat was shipped would not allow blade clearance at full height and/or full blade tilt. Plus, at zero blade height (full down), the blade hit the insert so there was no way to safely cut the kerf. The blade would be touching the insert when the saw would be started.

Infinity said the plate was defective and offered to send a replacement. New plate arrived yesterday and the throat is now large enough that it no longer cpnflicts with the blade. Thats the good news. The bad news is that the blade still hits the insert, so there is still no safe way to make the first kerf cut. I will find a workaround, but for what I paid for the plate you would certainly expect better machining.

So as of now i cannot re ommend his product. Maybe Infinity will re-tool for the Sawstop and eventually get it right. If anypne has a better experience, please let me know.

[mreza Salav]

Clay, can't you shave a bit off at the middle where the tip of the blade is hitting, using a router bit or a drill (at drill press)? I know it's not perfect but perhaps will fix your issue.

[Eduard Nemirovsky]

Absolutely agreed with everything what Kevin said. Plus has same experience with blade hits the insert.
I made plenty insert from hardwood and made a first cut with router bit.

Ed.

[glenn bradley]

The bad news is that the blade still hits the insert, so there is still no safe way to make the first kerf cut. I will find a workaround, but for what I paid for the plate you would certainly expect better machining.


Plus has same experience with blade hits the insert. I made plenty insert from hardwood and made a first cut with router bit. Ed.

This is true of any insert, shop made or commercial, that I have had experience with. The saw doesn't lower the blade enough to clear. I put a smaller blade on and raise it till I can just see it start to penetrate, then swap for the standard blade. The maker cannot mill the insert to leave just a paper thin surface since the exact location of blade exit is not known. That would mean a great portion of the insert would be paper thin as they would have to make this area large enough to compensate for the blade to throat opening variations, even on the same model saw.

[Matt Meiser]

But you can't do that on a SS since you can't run a smaller blade. MAYBE an 8" blade with a dado brake. But then you also have to worry about if its the right width.

[Mike Heidrick]

Matt - could you use a 1/8 dado blade and dado brake then use 1/8 10" blades and regular brake?

So far I have just used the sawstop mfg inserts.

I

[Matt Meiser]

Maybe--not sure if you can run just an one of the outer blades with that brake?

I'm hoping theres an easy way--I want one of these inserts.

[Kevin Womer]

I did not have the issue of the blade hitting the insert, but I did level the plate to the table top prior to cutting through the insert (this might help?). Sometimes the insert will slide forward just a little bit, but I see they have a solution to that problem on the attachment above by Kevin G. They now allow for two screws to be placed through the plate on the bottom into the insert on each side. Mine is an older plate without this modification, which might explain the blade hitting the bottom of the insert mentioned by others. It is a good idea. I believe I will drill and tap mine to help keep the insert in place. I will also mention to others I have not tried any bevel cuts yet with this plate, so be forwarned to check for clearance prior to turning the saw on to prevent accidental brake activation.

[Clay Fails]

This is true of any insert, shop made or commercial, that I have had experience with. The saw doesn't lower the blade enough to clear. I put a smaller blade on and raise it till I can just see it start to penetrate, then swap for the standard blade. The maker cannot mill the insert to leave just a paper thin surface since the exact location of blade exit is not known. That would mean a great portion of the insert would be paper thin as they would have to make this area large enough to compensate for the blade to throat opening variations, even on the same model saw.

The OEM Sawstop insert has clearance for the 10 inch blade to be started without interference. The Infinity does not. Of course there are work-arounds as I said, but wouldnt you expect better manufacturing tolerances for this price tag?

[marty shultz]

I've had their first two versions. The second version was pretty good except when the blade was raised to the hightest position. There isn't much clearance and it just about cuts the sacrificial wood in half.

I should be getting their new and improved version any day now.

[J.R. Rutter]

I have the original version. I see that they added a hole to make it easier to get off. I just cut it by holding the front up off the blade (with blade fully lowered) and lower it onto the blade after it starts.

[Mike Leung]

I have installed the latest (3rd?) version and it works perfectly in my ICS. I am able to fully raise the blade without any issues. The inserts now come with indents to give clearance for 10" blades before making your own kerf. The fit and finish is superb. I highly recommend this upgrade. Just make sure you order the latest version with all of the kinks worked out.

[mreza Salav]

Does this fit on the earlier versions of SS (mine is an original ICS) WITHOUT the tool-less throat plate? (mine screws on)

[Mike Leung]

Yes. They will fit both newer and older style machines.


Does this fit on the earlier versions of SS (mine is an original ICS) WITHOUT the tool-less throat plate? (mine screws on)

[Roger Feeley]

I made my own ZCI from a blank throat plate. I used a router to mill out a rectangular space and then used a dovetail bit to undercut it. Using the same dovetail bit, I made my oak inserts. The nice thing about using the SS throat plate is you get that spiffy locker downer thing at the front.

[glenn bradley]

The OEM Sawstop insert has clearance for the 10 inch blade to be started without interference. The Infinity does not. Of course there are work-arounds as I said, but wouldnt you expect better manufacturing tolerances for this price tag?

Ah, good info. I did not realize the stock inserts would clear. I agree that is the OEM can do it and aftermarket should as well ;-)

[George Gyulatyan]

Another way to get around the clearance issue is to put the original throat plate on, line up the ZCI plate on the original plate... it helps to lower the original plate somewhat by backing off the adjustment screws, that way, it sinks in the opening somewhat allwowing you to line up the ZCI on top of the original throat plate.

Next, use a board long enough to span the width of the saw (front to back) as a caul, set it on top of the ZCI and use a couple of clamps at each end to hold the zci in place as you raise the blade.

[Mike Leung]

Here are 2 pics showing the blade fully raised and also the clearance indents pre-cut from the manufacturer. I must say I am impressed with the product. I added some foam dots to prevent scratches to my table top when changing blades.

[Nick Decker]

Old thread, but I can't seem to find any others on the Infinity inserts for the PCS. I'll be ordering the PCS Thursday, and am wondering about which way to go: $40 a pop for the SS inserts, or $100 for the Infinity with several slide-in inserts. Anybody using the current iteration of these things?

[Ben Rivel]

Old thread, but I can't seem to find any others on the Infinity inserts for the PCS. I'll be ordering the PCS Thursday, and am wondering about which way to go: $40 a pop for the SS inserts, or $100 for the Infinity with several slide-in inserts. Anybody using the current iteration of these things?
I do have the latest and I have had one since I got my SawStop a couple years ago. They are very nicely made but I honestly didnt end up needing the functionality of swapping inserts as often as I thought I would. Its really only useful IMO if you do A LOT of dado cutting on your table saw AND you are constantly changing widths AND you absolutely need a perfectly cut ZCI for every width dado you cut. You only really need one ZCI cut for a full kerf blade so that ZCI just hangs out. Then you really have to figure how many dado ZCIs you really need/use. I actually found that most of the time cutting dados with my router on a track rail is necessary and sometimes much easier and safer. So I hardly ever change the inserts in the Infinity ZCI.

[Nick Decker]

Good info, Ben, thanks. Think I'll just make do with the stock ZCI for the time being. Bank account is gonna be a little tender for a while.

[Lee Schierer]

I designed a throat plate with a replaceable wood insert and had a friend machine it out of aluminum jig plate for my Craftsman Table saw. The inserts are made from 1/4" thick maple from scrap and I can reuse them for dado or bevel angle set ups. My insert was made so that the saw blade can be lowered enough so that I can make a clean cut up through any new insert.380047380046380044

I don't see that it would be too difficult to design one for a saw stop. Any one with a decent CNC machine set up should be able to machine one precisely enough to work.

[Nick Decker]

Nice looking insert, Lee. Unfortunately, I don't know any machinists.

[Ben Rivel]

Good info, Ben, thanks. Think I'll just make do with the stock ZCI for the time being. Bank account is gonna be a little tender for a while.
Yea Id suggest putting that money into another high quality blade at first and get the Infinity ZCI later if you decided youd really use it.
Also note that you cant really switch back and forth between the SawStop ZCI and the Infinity since you have to adjust the leveling screws differently for each. So it really is one or the other.

[Nick Decker]

I think I'm covered on blades. My present saw is the SS Jobsite, and I've been using a couple of Woodworker II blades on that, one regular and one thin kerf (they're both now at Dynamic Saw being resharpened). I mostly use the regular kerf blade except on the rare occasion that I need to rip thick stock. I'm getting the 1.75 hp PCS, same rated horsepower as the Jobsite, so I may still need the thin kerf blade occasionally. It's a good blade, but I think I do notice some deflection with it at times.

Just waiting for the calendar to flip over to March so I can get the SS promotion...

[Lee Schierer]

Nice looking insert, Lee. Unfortunately, I don't know any machinists.

There has to be a few machine shops in Central Missouri and probably one or two retired machinists that wouldn't charge and arm and a leg for making you one. Your first step is to design the piece you need with a dimensioned drawing. Once you have the design, finding a place to make it is the easy part. There are probably a few guys at SMC with the capability. Since you are a contributor, you could advertise right in the classifieds section for quotes.

[Nick Decker]

Thanks, Lee, I might just try that once I have the saw.

[Jim Bowers]

I have used the Infinity insert zero clearance plate for over four years. I have never encountered any problems that I would not expect with other zero clearance plate with other cabinet saws.

[Nick Decker]

Thanks, Jim. What type of problems would those be? Overall fit? Leveling?

[glenn bradley]

Old thread, but I can't seem to find any others on the Infinity inserts for the PCS. I'll be ordering the PCS Thursday, and am wondering about which way to go: $40 a pop for the SS inserts, or $100 for the Infinity with several slide-in inserts. Anybody using the current iteration of these things?

Since my earlier comments in this thread I have acquired a PCS. Prior to that I started refreshing the fit of my ZCI's with epoxy; generally epoxy left over from whatever I am using it for :rolleyes:. I put a piece of packing tape on the top of the zci covering the slot. Flip it over and drizzle the epoxy on.

380163

Once cured I re-cut the slot.

380162

I've been using the same ZCI for years. I use the original pre-cut plate for angled cuts and of course, have a dado insert but, the same ZCI just keeps on going.

[Nick Decker]

Wow, great tip, Glenn. As always, you are one of several posters here that I pay close attention to.

[Ben Rivel]

I think I'm covered on blades. My present saw is the SS Jobsite, and I've been using a couple of Woodworker II blades on that, one regular and one thin kerf (they're both now at Dynamic Saw being resharpened). I mostly use the regular kerf blade except on the rare occasion that I need to rip thick stock. I'm getting the 1.75 hp PCS, same rated horsepower as the Jobsite, so I may still need the thin kerf blade occasionally. It's a good blade, but I think I do notice some deflection with it at times.

Just waiting for the calendar to flip over to March so I can get the SS promotion...
Oh man, well in that case put the extra money towards upgrading to the 3HP! You get the upgraded dust/blade guard with the 3HP and that works with the overarm dust collection accessory that you can get for free. Then get the ICS mobile base if you need a mobile base.

[Nick Decker]

Unfortunately, the 3hp version isn't an option for me. No 220v in my shop/garage. I'm a renter and the landlord says no modifications.

Not really worried, as my projects are pretty much small. Boxes, cutting bosrds, etc., and it's very rare that I cut anything over 5/4. Ordered the saw this morning from Acme, through Amazon. Hopeful for delivery sometime next week.

I am going to put it on the Industrial Mobile Base, which came in today.

I really don't think my modest dust collector (1 hp, 650 cfm) will handle both under table and overarm dust collection, but I'm told it's plenty for just under the table, so I think what I'll do is just put whatever promo item I get in the Classifieds here. If anyone reading this is looking for the Overarm Dust Collector or the Integrated Base for the PCS, shoot me a PM. I'll make you a deal.

Now comes the hard part, waiting for the damn thing to get here. :)