Bench plane vs. Transitional Bench plane

[Josh Pelletier]

Could someone clue me into the differences (besides the obvious body) between these two plane styles? Maybe some instances where ones use is better than the other. I love the look and feel of the transitional planes but am curious about their strengths and weaknesses.

[David Weaver]

Weakness of the bench plane:
* the iron is somewhat soft, probably optimized so that it would be easy to sharpen and grind on site
* the bottom is metal, friction

Weakness of most transitionals (maybe not all):
* same deal with the iron
* the totes can sometimes be a little small
* no ability to close the mouth without modification (not a problem if you know how to use the double iron)
* the totes are not fixed on the heavy use planes as solidly as they are on metal bench planes (this, to me, is their biggest weakness).

The problem with transitionals, so far as I've found around here, is that they look cool and when they are in great shape, antique mall dealers think they're worth $100. I'm unwilling to pay much of anything for them when the aforementioned tote problem exists.

I supposed those differences aside, just the sole issue alone and the weight difference may make you prefer transitionals in softwoods (where friction with metal planes is very pronounced, and weight isn't important) and metal bodied bench planes in hardwoods where paraffin or some other sole lubricant lasts a little better and the weight is an asset.

[Joe Bailey]

David
nicely and succinctly stated - exactly what I would have written.
I especially like the bit about their value as perceived by antiques dealers.

[James Scheffler]

This is obvious but bears repeating: It's way easier to flatten the sole of a transitional plane. Not a big deal with a smoothing plane, but potentially a very big deal with a jointer. (My Stanley No. 31 transitional jointer has stayed pretty flat since the initial work I did on it, with just minor adjustments).

I don't have a No. 7 or 8 for comparison, but sometimes I do like how heavy my No. 6 is. Sometimes a little momentum is good. However, my No. 31 works well enough, and I haven't been very tempted to find one of the longer iron planes.

[Chris Griggs]

I have one transitional, a jack plane. It's my favorite roughing plane. I love it. Just glides over wood and is significantly nicer and less tiring to get a board roughly flat with than my other metal jacks. I'd like to get some more, but for most things am perfectly happy with my metal ones so I haven't bothered to spend the money. And as Dave said nice ones do tend to often be overpriced.

I've had no problem with its light weight in North American hardwoods (e.g. hard maple, white oak on the hard end of what I use). If nothing else they make great roughing planes.

[Josh Pelletier]

Thanks, guys. I think I'll try to grab one, then. I see decent ones pop up on the auction site from time to time. I'm just starting to put together a collection of users (now I just need to learn proper techniques) and wasn't sure if I'd be wasting my time/money on a transitional.

[Jim Belair]

Here's what one guy has to say about them....

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/no-more-iron-bananas

[Terry Beadle]

I have two jack sized transitionals. I've even put a Hock iron in one because I LIKE IT that much! Hoot!

I closed the mouth up a bit on one of them by following Mr. Schwartz's advice and on other one I laminated a completely new sole out of lignum vitae abut 3/8ths thick. The reason for the lamination was because the chip breaker and adjustor arm were not happy because the original sole was so far gone.

I really like them as jack planes that don't wear you out and can be quickly adjusted for scrub duties and back to with the grain work. I only use them for roughing stock in although they both can take 3 thou shavings. The totes are too small and in one case made from some really crappy pine ( I think ) but it's useable and I use it.

Cheap. I paid almost nothing for one and was gifted the other. The Hock blade was expensive ! Hoot! .... but well worth it considering the original iron had a crack right down the spine to the cutting tip. I could have replaced the blade with a stock Stanley and saved some moolaa but I've some Hock blades in my #5's and they make the planes very happy to work all day with just a lite honing now and then. Thank you Mr. Hock!

They are a great buy. Easy to tune and lite duty on the muscles and bones.

Recommended.

[bridger berdel]

as an apprentice I was given a transitional jack. that and a block plane were my go to planes for decades. finishing involved sandpaper or scrapers in those days. now I have a fairly well stocked plane till, but woodies and transitionals are still featured in my work.

a well tuned transitional is a lot of fun to use.

[Chuck Nickerson]

An additional plus for a transitional: you can shape the bottom to task.
I have four transitionals shaped for various coopered work.

[Josh Pelletier]

Wow, now I'm kinda bummed that I waited so long. I saw a few nice ones go for pretty cheap in the last month or so. I'm keeping my eye out now.

[Jim Koepke]

Beyond the great information others have provided, my observation is mostly the difference of feedback between wood on wood and metal on wood.

For me it isn't enough difference to sell all my Stanley/Bailey planes and change to wooden bodied planes.

The other difference that is most seen in my shop is when it comes to molding planes. There are only about a dozen, not all working, wooden molding planes in my shop now, but in time my intention is to try to get at least a half set of hollows and rounds. In comparison, currently my metal planes like the Stanley 45 & 55 are used in this area. Just like other multipurpose tools, they are able to do the job, but usually not as well as a tool that was made for a single purpose.

Our tools are extensions of ourselves. If our hands long for their comforting feel, then they will spend more time in our hands doing our bidding on the projects we build.

jtk

[James Scheffler]

If you want to replace an iron in one of these, check out the Ray Iles irons at Tools for Working Wood. They are much thicker (almost 1/8 inch IIRC) than the originals and some of the other replacement brands, and therefore will close up the mouth some. (Might be enough if the sole isn't too worn out). A thicker blade will also help improve performance if the iron isn't well supported.

You can't use one of the aftermarket replacement cap irons with these planes - at least not without modification - because the slot for the adjuster is in a different place.