tailstock issues

[Gerald Wervey]

I have an old Delta 1940's vintageworks well except for last week the tailstock drive screw stopworking the way it should. Here is the problem the tailstock does notapply any pressure onto the wood the crank unscrews and you see thethreaded stock come out the tailstock body. Hope that i am explainingthis clear enough for an answer on how to tear it apart so I can getit working the way that it should if someone has a schematic of itthat would also be a great help.

Jerry

[Brian Kent]

I don't have the slightest idea about the tailstock, but welcome to the Creek, Gerald!

[Dave Mcintire]

Jerry, those tailstocks are pretty simple. Dont be afraid to tear it apart. If i recall from the last time i had one apart it sounds like a rolled pin has sheared or fallen out, or on the one you have maybe a loose set screw. The old machines were made a lot better than todays typical junk so you have a better chance of repair.

[Bob Coleman]

Here's a schematic of the tailstock. It really is pretty simple. I recommend taking it apart, inspecting and cleaning everything, and just putting it back together. There are only 5 parts - spindle itself, lead screw, nut, handle, and setscrew, plus the fiber washer at the end of the handle.

Hope this helps!


255037

[Gerald Wervey]

I have had it aprt several times, the tailstock was cast with a stud rail in it so that isn't the problem. What is happening is the nut that should keep the quill moving forward is coming out the rear of the TS as you turn the handle to advance the quill. I need to keep the nut from moing or at least keeping pressure on the quillso it advances as you turn the crank and stayss in place as you take and bring the quill to the back of the Ts so that the #2 MT can be removed.

Jerry


Jerry, those tailstocks are pretty simple. Dont be afraid to tear it apart. If i recall from the last time i had one apart it sounds like a rolled pin has sheared or fallen out, or on the one you have maybe a loose set screw. The old machines were made a lot better than todays typical junk so you have a better chance of repair.

[Jerry Marcantel]

Jerry, pictured is what that screw should look like.255035255036 It's turned from a solid pice of steel.
If your screw doesn't look exactly like what's pictured, something is worn, like maybe the flange. If the flange is still on it, look at the area where the screw comes out of the tailstock at the handle, and see if the hole is the same size as the right end of the screw in these pictures. If the hole is larger, or you don't have the flange, it's possible that you've worn either one out..... I could feel mine grinding as I screwed in or out, and also had a lot of slop in it, and fixed it by adding some washers, plastic and hardened steel washers on the inside and fitting at the cone side of that flange. I haven't felt that grinding since, and it's been about 2 years. Also, add oil every now and then on that shaft. It gets more wear than any other moving part on your lathe other than the headstock. To remove the screw, remove the handle, then use a soft hammer and beat it out, or if you loosen the quill screw, you should be able to just pull it out............ ........ Jerry (in Tucson)

[Gerald Wervey]

Bob Its the nut that keeps moving where in the TS should it be tightened to the quill end or the handle end?

Jerry

[Jerry Marcantel]

Here's a schematic of the tailstock. It really is pretty simple. I recommend taking it apart, inspecting and cleaning everything, and just putting it back together. There are only 5 parts - spindle itself, lead screw, nut, handle, and setscrew, plus the fiber washer at the end of the handle.

Hope this helps!


255037

Sorry, Bob, but this tailstock pictured is on a Delta Milwaukee Homecraft. Jerry worte me once and asked about my lathe as his is like mine...... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Leo Van Der Loo]

If it is a Delta 46-200, there is a roll-pin to keep the screw from coming out, here's part of the schematic and the ## that go with it, of course there are more Delta lathes than this one, but that type has been used for a long time and was used in many schools, came in 4 speed and variable speed, I don't know if the tailstock got changed at all in that time, quite possible though.

# 44 is the adjusting screw that Jerry is showing, and#45 is the roll pin that keeps it in place.

255040 255041

You can find more info here.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=3666

[Bob Coleman]

Jerry (in Tucson), Jerry (OP) wrote me as well and asked since I had posted a diagram of my headstock if I could do the same for my tailstock, hence the diagram I posted, which, as you pointed out, is a 1955 Delta Homecraft lathe.

Jerry (OP) - I will check the assembly when I get home and let you know how its arranged. My recollection from when I put it back together is that it was a little wonky for a little while, then all of a sudden started working right! Which of course is why I don't remember what I did!

-Bob

[Bob Coleman]

Sorry I took so long to get back! The nut is threaded all the way onto the lead screw so the nut plus the handle lock the screw in place around the tailstock cap.

To reassemble, thread the nut all the way onto the screw, slide the tailstock cap onto it, and slide the handle onto the screw end and tighten the set screw. Then slide this assembly into the tailstock and thread the cap onto the tailstock body. Then slide the quill into the front of the tailstock until it hits the screw. Lightly push on the quill while turning the handle until the threads engage.

Hope this helps!

[Fred Perreault]

What a great group of folks....