Flip top cabinets, do you have any pics

[Alan Tolchinsky]

of yours? You know the cabinets that have two tools mounted on a top that flips over allowing you to have two tools in one cabinet. What did you make yours out of and what did you use for the pivot hardware? I'm also looking for plans. Thanks. Alan

[Jim Becker]

Alan, the "original" plan that many folks use is available from WOOD Magazine in the WOODSTORE. It's available at this link (http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?woodstore+NM6Snx+swivtoolcab.html).

http://us.st8.yimg.com/store1.yimg.com/I/woodstore_1844_12282466
They also have a new idea for a bench-like constrution with tools that flip...available at this link (http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?woodstore+NM6Snx+flwoce.html).

http://us.st8.yimg.com/store1.yimg.com/I/woodstore_1844_11778488

[Alan Tolchinsky]

That's just what I was looking for. Boy you sure are one great source of information. I appreciate all you do for SMC members. Thanks again. Alan

[Ralph Barhorst]

Alan,

I just finished the cabinet shown if the bottom picture of Jim's post.

I made a few modifications. I adjusted the height so that I could use it as an outfeed table for my table saw. I did not put a door on it as I thought it was not necessary and just got in the way. The stops that hold the top are also different as I wanted a clean top without any brackets so that I could use it as the outfeed table. The top swivels on a length of 1/2" rod which works great.

The casters are double lock. This means that the wheel won't roll and the swivel won't turn. That table won't move when the wheels are locked.

I also added an additional roller to use as in infeed/outfeed roller when using my bandsaw. Yes, that roller is a rolling pin that I bought at the supermarket for $5.

See pictures.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I like what you did there. Could you show/explain how you did the pivot for the table? I'm thinking of using two pieces of 3/4" ply and building a small torsion box then sliding the rod between them.

I'm assumimg the table locks simply slide into holes in the table. Does this hold it tightly without the table moving during use? Thanks for your ideas. Alan

[Ralph Barhorst]

Alan

The flip top was made from 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF. A 1/2" wide by 1/4" deep dado was cut down the middle of each piece. When glued together this created a 1/2" x 1/2" area for the 1/2" diameter steel rod. I used 1-1/2" birch for the frame around the flip top with a 1/2" hole centered on the edge for the ends of the 1/2" rod.

The table top locks that are shown on the picture work OK but are not ideal. Sometimes they try to wiggle out due to vibration when using the planer. I plan to modify it to eliminate this problem.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Ralph, that is a great looking stand! I have a list of shop projects and that one is going on it :)

[Wes Bischel]

Alan,
This is one I made based on the top plan - though it was totally resized to fit my planer. :rolleyes:

Wes

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Ralph I know what you did from your PM but how does the 1/2" rod go into the sides? Just a hole or something else? What keeps the rod from "walking" out of the dados?

Wes I can see some hardware on the side but could you explain what hardware you used and how it attaches to the sides? What keeps the rod from sliding out?

I have to make my planer flip table over table (front to back) instead of the sideways direction you used . I have a dust collector hood over the outfeed table and it's hard to remove and replace. But I'm hoping if I tilt the planer front to back instead of side to side lilke you did it should clear this. Any ideas here would be appreciated.

Thanks guys. Alan

[Dan Gill]

I don't have a picture, but I built that Wood plan for my Ridgid planer. I turned the plan sideways, though, so that it is wider than it is deep. That way I can turn it over without removing the dust chute and folding the tables up. But don't do what I did - I neglected to account for the part of the swiveling table that was BELOW the hinge pins. My planer rubs on the middle shelf when I turn it over. It does keep it nice and steady when I use my belt/disk sander . . . :o

[Ralph Barhorst]

Ralph I know what you did from your PM but how does the 1/2" rod go into the sides? Just a hole or something else? What keeps the rod from "walking" out of the dados?

There are just two 1/2" holes, one on each side, that the 1/2" rod enters. Each hole is about 1-1/4" deep into the birch frame. They are blind holes so the rod cannot walk.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I don't have a picture, but I built that Wood plan for my Ridgid planer. I turned the plan sideways, though, so that it is wider than it is deep. That way I can turn it over without removing the dust chute and folding the tables up. But don't do what I did - I neglected to account for the part of the swiveling table that was BELOW the hinge pins. My planer rubs on the middle shelf when I turn it over. It does keep it nice and steady when I use my belt/disk sander . . . :o

Dan, That's exactly what I want to do as far as turning the plan sideways. I'm glad you mentioned that. I'll be careful to watch for clearance. Thanks! Alan

[Alan Tolchinsky]

[QUOTE=Alan Tolchinsky]Ralph I know what you did from your PM but how does the 1/2" rod go into the sides? Just a hole or something else? What keeps the rod from "walking" out of the dados?

There are just two 1/2" holes, one on each side, that the 1/2" rod enters. Each hole is about 1-1/4" deep into the birch frame. They are blind holes so the rod cannot walk.


O.K. Ralph. Now I understand I'm thinking the right way. I may drill all the way through and then glue with wooden plugs to make assembly easier. Thanks Ralph. Alan