Workshop progress

[Dave Halter]

Making progress on my shop. They got the trusses up and the roof installed this week. We had a storm pass through last week with really high winds that blew some of the housewrap loose.

[Jeff Monson]

Wow Dave, thats looking really nice!! Is the whole shop dedicated for woodworking? If so, how do you plan on using both levels?

[Dave Halter]

The upper level (it's a 28'x30' space to the left of the garage in the 1st photo) will be for woodworking. The basement will be for storage and house the HVAC, dust collection system, air compessor, wood storage, etc.

[David Nelson1]

looks great. I have a space that is 16 X 32 outside dimensions with no windows cinderblock construction. I built it that way because I was worried about the noise level since I had plans to keep some of the machinery from the machine shop I closed. Moving forward I wished I had windows now but its too hard to add them. If it where me I might consider a punching in a few more. Just my .02

[Dave Halter]

I originally considered a second window on the upper level to the left of the entry door (which is the West side), but when I changed that to a 6' wide door we moved that window to the North side. It's tough to balance keeping wall space for cabinets, racks, and such, with windows. I'm using the shop lighting article posted here on the Creek to plan the lighting so there should be plenty of light. There is only one window in the garage area on the South side, but I'm not to concerned about lighting in that area.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

That's going to be a great space Dave. Being able to use the lower level for storage and mechanicals is a smart move.

[David Nelson1]

Cool! It is tough balance unless you 12 foot falls. Windows could be the barn type rectangular or is that loft type? Either way its going to be a great place to work! Congrats!

[Dave Halter]

Work has come to a screeching halt due to the big snow storm we had. There's another on the way so I don't expect much to happen this week either.

[Bernie LeBlanc]

Wow - you got some shop going there. Sure sounds like good planing with machines and lumber downstairs. My cave is a 24 X 24 space I hand dug out from under my barn located in the granite state. It was a crawl space with about 1/3 walking dirt floor. Because I ran into some ledge, I had to settle for a shorter ceiling then I wanted (about 7ft), but it's bigger the lots of folks have and it's my man cave. I guess it's easier to heat.

I don't envy you but I'm happy for you. Hope to see some saw dust in there soon.

[Vincent Branton]

Looking cool! I'm Looking forward to see more updates!

[Dave Halter]

The electrician is supposed to start next week and I've been working on the shop layout. I currently have a contractors saw, but plan to upgrade to a 3hp cabinet saw. I've looked at several different manuals online trying to figure out what the amp draw would be for a 3hp 230v saw, but I'm not have much luck. I want to make sure I give him accurate information to size everything correctly. Can anyone tell me what the amp draw is for a 3hp Sawstop, Unisaw, or PM2000?

Thanks,
Dave

[Steve Milito]

The electrician is supposed to start next week and I've been working on the shop layout. I currently have a contractors saw, but plan to upgrade to a 3hp cabinet saw. I've looked at several different manuals online trying to figure out what the amp draw would be for a 3hp 230v saw, but I'm not have much luck. I want to make sure I give him accurate information to size everything correctly. Can anyone tell me what the amp draw is for a 3hp Sawstop, Unisaw, or PM2000?

Thanks,
Dave
http://www.sawstop.com/products/professional-cabinet-saw/specs/

Spec sheet says 13 amps.
Theoretically, 3 hp is a bit over 10 amps at 220.
Realistically, you need a 15 amp circuit.
Practically, I'd use either 10 or 12 gauge wire and then size the breaker for the machine you are actually using, but leaving room to upgrade to a 20 or 30 amp circuit if you ever get a bigger machine.

[Dave Halter]

Steve,
Thanks for the info.

Dave

[Dave Halter]

Weather keeps slowing things down, but there has been some progress on my shop.

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[Todd Burch]

Looking good.

Will there be another type of siding (stone veneer? Paint?) that covers the basement walls where the siding appears to have been intentionally left large and square (instead of stair-stepped and following the grade?)

What pitch on your roof?

Are gutters planned?

Do y'all do a drain pipe to daylight, covered in rock, in that neck of the woods around the basement walls perimeter?

Was the dirt removed for the basement, brought up to the high side of the hill to swale the water around the shop?

Was the basement a separate line item on the build with a $ figure attached to it? Share?

Thanks for posting pics!

[Dave Halter]

The siding only covers the area with wood framing. That's roughly where the interior concrete wall is that divides the basement and the back filled foundation under the upper garage floor.

I'm not sure of the roof pitch. There are gutters planned on both the front and back.

There is perforated drain tile with gravel around the base of the foundation.

The shop was sited in that particular spot to take advantage of an area that had been cut out of the slope. That area provided fill dirt to level the front yard when the house was built 20 years ago. There was some digging required for the shop foundation and some backfill along the front, but overall the lay of the land provided a great opportunity to add the basement.

The basement was not calculated separately, but only added about $5-8000 when I changed the plan and added it in. It really didn't change the concrete $ totals much; added some wall framing and the floor, but did away with backfilling the entire foundation.

[Todd Burch]

Thanks Dave.

I'm considering a basement under my shop as well. My slope isn't as steep as yours, but I believe there is least 5' difference in grade from the front to the back (40').

People make basements out of gold here (central texas). I suppose since they don't build them so often (it's a rarity), I get to pay for their liability. I mean, it's not rocket science. You dig a hole, place footings, build the perimeter walls, waterproof them, and you're done. How complicated is that!

What's the interior looking like? Got a placement plan for tools?

Pitch looks to be about 5 or 6/12.

[Dave Halter]

Around here practically everyone has a basement. Slab houses are pretty rare. I will say that most shops are built on a slab so mine is a bit unusual in that regard. I had about an 8' drop so it made the decision to add the basement easy.

There's nothing much to look at inside at this point. The electrical and HVAC installation are supposed to start next if they can get the siding finished.

I do have an equipment layout that I came up with. I used Grizzlys online shop design tool so I would have a decent printout to give the electrician. I also built a spreadsheet with all of the tools and their electrical requirement and drew another semi-to-scale layout for lighting using the article here on SMC. My contractor said the electrician was happy, because he wasn't used to getting that much detail. When I can find my copy of the layout I'll scan and upload them.

[Dave Halter]

It's been a couple of months since I updated the progress on my shop. The electrician was in an auto accident so that put things behind, but he's got the wires pulled and I'm now waiting on the power company to install the meter. The drywall installers are supposed to be here mid-week to hang the rock, but will wait until I have power and climate control to mud and tape. The garage area will have OSB on the walls. The exterior walls have 2" of closed cell foam insulation and the ceiling will have blown insulation in it.. The contractor should also start framing up the concrete pads in front of the garage doors and putting in the block wall below the heat pump. I'm hoping things will get finished up fairly soon now.

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[Michael Dunn]

It's been a couple of months since I updated the progress on my shop. The electrician was in an auto accident so that put things behind, but he's got the wires pulled and I'm now waiting on the power company to install the meter. The drywall installers are supposed to be here mid-week to hang the rock, but will wait until I have power and climate control to mud and tape. The garage area will have OSB on the walls. The exterior walls have 2" of closed cell foam insulation and the ceiling will have blown insulation in it.. The contractor should also start framing up the concrete pads in front of the garage doors and putting in the block wall below the heat pump. I'm hoping things will get finished up fairly soon now.

<img src="http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=267421"/><img src="http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=267422"/><img src="http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=267423"/><img src="http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=267424"/><img src="http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=267425"/>

Any further updates? Making sawdust by now I suppose...

[glenn bradley]

Must . . . fight . . . envious . . . rage :D. The place is looking great Dave. Building out a shop is a very exciting time.

[Dave Halter]

Yes, the only issue is that this has taken much longer than planned. We did finish up installing the cabin grade oak flooring this weekend. It's down to finishing up some trim, painting, and finishing the floor.