I need HELP!!!

[Harold Burrell]

OK...maybe this isn't a real emercency...but I am looking for your input.

I recent won the 2 Custom Made saw blades from Carbide Processors (http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pages/saw-blades/longlife-saw-blades.html ) in the SMC drawing. (I am WAY pumped by the way...and oh so very grateful and humbled. As far as I can remember, I have never won a drawing before for anything.) :o

I'm just wondering what I should get. I have a 10" TS (Grizzly G0661) and a 12" Bosch 5312 SCMS. I do as many crosscuts at I can on the SCMS. 95%+ of the cuts I make on the TS are rip cuts. The blades I currently have are basically stuff that I have gotten on sale at the local BORG's. On my TS, I pretty much use 24 tooth blades exclusively.

I have been thinking about going with a blade for each machine...but I have also considered getting 2 for just the TS (like a glue-line and good all-purpose rip).

A couple of other considerations (maybe)...I'm a little spooked of "thin kerf" blades on the TS as Grizzly apparently recommends against them with the riving knife. Also, I spoke with a fellow at Bosch and he actually recommended that I use a regular thickness blade on the SCMS to avoid deflection on hardwood. He said the saw would have more than enough power for 1/8" blades.

So...anyway...what do you suggest???

[David Kumm]

I'd get a combo like the WWII- 40 tooth- for the TS and a neg hook 60-80 tooth blade for the SCMS. Both full kerf. Since most blades are priced by the tooth your best bang is to buy your own rip blade at a later date. Dave

[Jeff Monson]

Well 1st off, congrats!! Those blades will be a huge step up for you. I have tried a glue line rip blade, IMO it did not leave any better cut quality than a good quality rip blade. From the operations you describe, I would opt towards a rip blade for your TS and a high tooth count blade for you SCMS. just my .02

[Alan Schwabacher]

I'd call Carbide Processors and talk to them. One of the biggest advantages of a custom blade is that it can match your needs, not someone else's.

[glenn bradley]

I'll preface this with the admission that I am a task-specific blade kind of guy. A one-blade-does-it-all approach doesn't work well with what I do. That being said; I have a Carbide Processors 80T, 50T, and 24T all full kerf. In my world combo blades are just for roughing stuff out so I would go with the 80T (many folks prefer a 60T; faster but not as clean on troublesome woods) and the 24T. This gives you top performance at two frequent tasks and you can pick up whatever you prefer for your combo work. Don't get me wrong, it is great to have a high end 40 - 50 tooth blade but, given the choice of two I would hit the ends of the spectrum and fill in the general purpose tasks from another source. That's just me; YMMV.

[Mike Heidrick]

I can go straight to glue ups with a wwii combo and not switch blades between ripping and cross-cutting. Its my blade of choice. Then get a 80+ chopmaster or 96+ mitermaster for your chop saw and you have the trim/cross cuts taken care of.

[Gary Herrmann]

Do you make furniture or other items with lots of dovetails? I seem to remember someone writing an article about having a TS blade made with the appropriate angle cut to the teeth for dovetailing.

If not, I'd also vote for high tooth count blades. If you work with sheet goods a lot, a blade like the Forrest plywood blade would be handy.