Disston Back Saw - Help Me Identify It, and is it Gloat Worthy?

[Brent Ring]

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I found this in a Goodwill store in Minnesota, while dropping my son off there. He is beginning a new life there after graduating from college in December. I walked up to a glass cabinet while he was paying for a couple of items, and saw this sitting in the cabinet. There was also a new Great Neck brand saw in the cabinet which I left, which, while looking much newer, had a price tag of $6.99. This Disston I scored for $3.99. :). So;

1.How do I tell what model it is? Any guesses on how old it is, or any way to reliably tell?
2.It does not seem to cut well at all , either rip or cross-cut. Very hard to push. It may need to be sharpened, but the teeth seem pretty sharp. What do I need to do to get it cutting well?
3. How can I tell if its supposed to be a rip cut, or a crosscut saw?

Any and all advice apprecated. I have used Japanese saws and like them, but I could not pass this up. Someone said that once you use a good western saw for dovetails, etc, you will never go back.

Brent

[Chris Vandiver]

That is certainly a very gloat worthy find. The medallion dates that saw prior to 1896. Check the Disstonian Institute for an accurate dating of the medallion.

How long is the saw, 12"?

It can be filed either rip or crosscut.

That saw is worthy of a trip to the saw doctor. Here's a link to the very best; http://home.grics.net/~weir/Old_SAWS_Restored.html

He may be able to help you out.

[Bill Houghton]

Some resources:
http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/
http://home.grics.net/~weir/disston_10in.html

The teeth may need more set. Is it straight? Sight along the length of the sawplate. There are various folks who can sharpen them; do NOT take it to your local handy tool sharpening shop. Others may have recommended folks to offer.

As to rip vs. crosscut: http://norsewoodsmith.com/content/types-handsaws In my observation, most backsaws from that period are crosscut, or some hybrid pattern.

As to what you want it to be when you're done: how long is it? It looks to be 12-14" (that's measuring the sawplate, not the overall length). If that's the case, it's a bit big for dovetails (8-10" is optimal for them), but could be quite useful as a tenon saw.

[Brent Ring]

[QUOTE=Bill Houghton;2063071 Is it straight? Sight along the length of the sawplate... how long is it? It looks to be 12-14" (that's measuring the sawplate, not the overall length). If that's the case, it's a bit big for dovetails (8-10" is optimal for them), but could be quite useful as a tenon saw.[/QUOTE]

It is little curved, instead of being straight. Is there an easy way to fix that? It is 12" long, and is 2.5" wide from the bottom of the spine to the teeth, in width.

[Chris Vandiver]

It is quite a good saw potentially and somewhat valuable because of the vintage and condition, so in less you have the know-how, send it to a saw doctor. You won't regret it. When it's done it will be as good or better than any new saw you can buy. If you do the work yourself and do it poorly, you'll diminish it's value and it's usefulness.

[Jim Koepke]

Brent,

If it were mine, there would be gloating.

jtk

[Jonas Baker]

You got a nice one for sure. Looks like a Disston #4. The best part is that the handle appears to be in excellent condition with very nicely shaped horns (I think that's what they call the points coming off the handle, or should I say tote). I would make sure it's straight, and then send it off to get professionally sharpened by one of the people recommended on sawmillcreek. Lucky guy.

I recently picked up a very cool 16 inch long Disston #7 from a bit earlier era than this one, but the saw plate is bent and the horns are a bit chewed up. I may send it out to be restored.

Good luck with your saw. It will make a great user saw, as long as the plate is straight, and you get it sharpened properly.

Jonas