Cutting end profile on my table top

[Joe Cowan]

I am building the Hayrake Table that was featured in Fine Woodworking about a year ago. The top is 1- 1/8" thick by 36" wide by 76" long. The end is supposed to drop off by 1-1/4" at each corner from the center point. I usually put a guide bushing in my router, drill a hole in one end to match the guide bushing, find the pivot point to match with the arc and rout away. Yesterday, I was playing around to see what distance I needed to have, to make the plywood trammel and it seems this will be longer than the length of the table. I just took a scrap piece of ripped stock and held it by hand to the center of one end, to see how close I came to the 1-1/4" setback mark I had made. Now I am thinking of making a pattern for the corners and using that. Just wondering how others would do this?

[Dave Richards]

This table?
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5133/5484028186_e75a00b16a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/8294157@N08/5484028186/)

The ends of the top have a curve on them that has bulge of 1-1/4". I checked the model of the table and the radius is about 130-7/32 in. radius. It would indeed take a long trammel for that.

I guess I would make a template for that curve developing the arc by springing a thin batten into place. bandsaw the top and clean up with a router or by hand.

[Joe Cowan]

Yes, that is the table. I like the looks provided by the trammel as I am not as good with hand tools. I was also thinking of coming down around 60" or so from the end, and moving over to one side of the center line by around 6 or 8 inches and trying that to get close. If it is close, do it on both sides of the center line the same way, and then the other end, and it will look close enough.

[Bruce Page]

I would use a curved batten as Dave suggested to make an MDF template (easy to cut and shape), use the template to layout the finish cut lines, cut the table ends + 1/8” using a jig saw, and finish cut using the MDF template and a pattern bit. Both ends would end up identical.

[Dave Richards]

Joe, I don't follow what you are describing with the 60" and off to the side but if you go that way, I'll just wish you good luck.

I was thinking what Bruce wrote about making a template from MDF. I guess I should have added that but I thought it was pretty clear.

[Prashun Patel]

If it were me, I'd make a template, then trace it on each side and bandsaw off the vast majority and then use the template and router to flush it up.

If you haven't ripped the sides to width yet, do that AFTER the end routing and you'll save yourself some tearout risk.

[Joe Cowan]

Just thinking that if I slid over from the center line at some guess point (say 60" from the end and slide over around 6 to 8 inches perpendicular from the center line) and tried to get the cut to start at the 1-1/4 " down point from each corner, and move the router over until it started arcing back to the table. I would be using the trammel on two different points on each end. It would create a flat area at the middle point of each end as I would be working mostly on the corners. It is something in my head and hard to explain. Probably just go with the template, it looks like I am trying to make this too complicated.

[John TenEyck]

I've done arcs like that before. I laid an MDF/plywood piece down on the floor, used my tape measure to find the center point of the arc on the floor. I put a piece of plywood down at the center point with something heavy to keep it from moving. Find the center point again and drive in a finish nail. Now turn your tape around and hook it around the nail. Stretch it out to the length of the arc, hold a pencil against the tape at the correct length, and draw the arc. Pretty easy. If you're really anal, add the offset for the bushing, but on an arc that large who cares, IMO. Then cut out the template, clamp to your table, and route away.

John

[Dave Richards]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8105/8472009318_0188952205_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/8294157@N08/8472009318/)

Looks to me as if you could nick off the corner doing what you described Jon. Not much else. Template would be easier and you might find it can be used for something else later. who knows, you might build another of these tables.

[Joe Cowan]

I was thinking of the offset side also being the side that the router cut on as well. Cut that side, move the router over to the opposite side and repeat.

[John Lanciani]

Mark the line with a bow, cut to the line with a jigsaw, and clean up with a belt sander or a spokeshave. You'll be done before you had the trammel or pattern made.

[Dave Richards]

I see. that would put a slight arc toward the corners and give you a flat spot in the middle as you said, at least if you stop soon enough. If you miss the stopping point you'll have something else.

[Joe Cowan]

Like I said earlier, probably over thinking this. I have started on the template and will put this trammel thought to rest.

[Paul Symchych]

Agree with John. But I mark 'em out and use the bandsaw followed by belt sander etc.