Ron Paulk work bench, plywood or MDF? I big MFT.

[Todd Brewer]

Title should read... A big MFT.

I'm gong to build a variation of Ron Paulk's Ultimate Workbench. I'm gong to make it one piece instead of 2 2'X8' pieces. I like the idea of being able to insert the Festool clamps from below should I want to clamp tracks, etc. I just built a variation of his cross cut jig. Will make breaking down sheet goods very easy and accurate.

I spent most of today reading about home-made MFT tables, which in effect this table will be. Most use MDF. I don't have much (if any) experience with MDF. My bias is MDF is not very structural, won't hold screws etc. I want to build it out of plywood. I feel I can biscuit/screw a plywood structure and have more strength than doing the same with MDF. It's gong to be 4'x8' and I am not worried about weight. I'm hoping to come up with a hoist design that will raise it up to my 9' ceiling using a Harbor Freight electric hoist. Easy up, easy down. :)

I would appreciate thoughts on using plywood vs. MDF. I'm thinking 3/4 plywood. I see a lot of posts for MFT DIY tables using 1/2" MDF.

[Jim Matthews]

Is the design a torsion box?

MDF would be fine, if you can keep it dry.
I would prefer the top surface to be something like the Wilson Art laminate.

[Todd Brewer]

Yes it is, but the cross pieces are 2' on center. Not a tightly spaced grid. I'm thinking of reducing the spacing to 16". The idea is there are openings in the sides that allow you to insert a Festool clamp from below. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJoGTf6KL8s

[phil harold]

looks like ply to me
http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2011/09/09/the-ultimate-work-bench/

[tim morris]

I have a 4x8 mft. I used mdo, it give me a lot less weight than mdf, plywood stucture and a smooth surface on the top side. I regularly screw jigs, fixtures and clamping devices to it. Couldn't be happier with the results.

[Jim Matthews]

If the focus of your design is the Festool clamps, Alan Little has built an alternative.

It doesn't rely on a torsion box for stiffness, and would be lighter, with less expense in the materials.
Have a look at the video intro from Askwoodman.com (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eG0_pb_tXus)

I'll be building my own version of his "Texas Roubo" which is a versatile side clamping trestle.
I've been struggling with how to cut joinery on the ends of longer boards.

Some of his stuff is unorthodox, but inventive.

[Roger Rayburn]

Unorthodox but inventive is an understatement. I'm looking forward to watching the series.

[Todd Brewer]

Thanks for the feedback.

MDO might be a good option. I like the idea of having something that glue will not stick to. I suppose laminating some Formica (or similar) on the plywood would be an option as well. Will this ruin a router bit quickly? I was thinking of buying the Festool 20mm boring bit (#491072) for my router but don't want to spend that much on a router bit if it will be ruined before I can drill a pattern in a 4x8' sheet of MDO or plywood with Formica. Ideally it will last such that I can build other jigs/benches with 20mm holes.

Askwoodman, interesting... not sure his bench is for me, especially when he reveals the metal frame underneath (now I have to weld, LOL). He then goes on to say he cuts wood on it. Can you say ruined blade? I'm sure he takes care to not cut into the metal frame, but I don't trust myself. :)

Another possibility, Everything built out of plywood except the top, use MDF for that. I suppose there's nothing wrong with that.

[Jim Matthews]

It's a good point, about not cutting into your top - if there's metal beneath.

When I cut sheet goods, I use a circular saw and track guide. I put the sheet to be cut on top of a 2" thick piece of insulating foam.
It reduces tear out, and offers no resistance to the saw blade. It is also very inexpensive. One sheet will last me two years.
(If my kids don't appropriate it for 'fort building' or sledding materials.)

I like the idea of MDO as a top surface; it should hold screws if needed, allow for stable through holes for your clamps and clean up quickly.

I also keep around a few thick plastic "GARAGE SALE" signs to put under the joints I'm gluing. It makes clean up easy, just flex the sign and the glue pops off.

What I like most about Alan's ultimate worktable is the movable top. The force of clamping holds everything in place.
If he needs an unusual holding method, he can just slide the top over to expose the framework below.

Perhaps your top would be held in place with screws, so you could flip it over if the exposed surface gets worn?

[Todd Brewer]

snip...

Perhaps your top would be held in place with screws, so you could flip it over if the exposed surface gets worn?

I'd like to make it removable/replaceable, but am wondering if it doesn't need to be glued to make it very sturdy. If MDO holds screws really well then I probably don't need to glue the top. I've got some ideas...