Should I or shouldn't I...

[Ken Barton]

I have the opportunity to purchase a Delta Unisaw 34-450 for $150. It is essentially site unseen except for a grainy picture. It is a former school shop saw and I don't expect it to have any accessories with it, it is listed as fair condition and runs. I don't need it, am happy with my Craftsman zip code saw and only have the space to keep one saw. Should I get it, realizing I probably have quite a bit of work to make it useable. Or just leave well enough alone and be happy with what I have? I think I know the answer, but want the crowd thought to see what I am missing.

[Michael W. Clark]

If that's a Biesmeyer fence, you could resell the fence and rails for what you paid for the saw if it doesn't work. If this happens, let me know!

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I agree with Michael, I'd love to have a bies fence instead of the uni on my worksite saw, there is a market. Bet you could buy it and sell one of the two for a tidy profit as well.

[Jim Tabor]

Ken,
This is what you should do: 1. If the fence is a Biesmeyer, buy the saw, send the fence and rails to me for $100. (Okay, okay $100 plus shipping) 2. Sell the rest of the saw locally for.....$250?. That way you'll make a profit and also make a fellow woodworker happy. How is that for sound advice?:)

[Matt Meiser]

That would make the $250 deal I got last year look really good.

Its probably 3-phase so budget $350 for a new motor.

[Mike Heidrick]

Yep - 3ph is my guess. Id just get a converter. Static would be just fine or a VFd is cheap enough for a $150 saw. Another $50 for an ext table. Done assuming all if find under metal.

[Jim Andrew]

I would buy the old Uni, and sell your cman saw. I got rid of my old Cman saw in 05, when I got my new Uni, and have enjoyed it very much. No comparison between the saws.

[Ken Barton]

Thanks for the advice, I figured that was the way to go. Bought the saw tonight, but won't pick it up until next weekend, will let you know what I find!

[Roger Feeley]

Betcha lunch that they bought a SawStop. My understanding is that the wood shops are going to SS. They ask for the saw in capital outlay and when it's denied, the teacher sends a certified letter to the Superintendent and members of the board. The letter outlines the safety aspects of the saw and basically says, "You've been warned. If a kid cuts his thumb off and sues, don't come crying to me." Generally, the SS shows up in about 2 weeks. There are a lot of used Unisaws coming out of high school shops.

[Chris Fournier]

You should. If it is 3 phase, buy a used VFD for peanuts and you have a smokin' saw - not the cut nor the motor, I mean deal!

[Ken Barton]

Well I bought the saw, I believe it is a 1961 vintage. It is a 3 phase, 2hp motor, so will have to replace that. It did come with a Beisemeyer fence and extension table, although the table will have to be replaced as it is in bad shape. Also included a couple of zero insert plates, but those were pretty used, so will be making new ones.

As for what it is missing, it did not come with a blade and the arbor nut is missing as well. There is no blade guard or mitre gauge and the motor cover is missing. Otherwise, it looks to be in fine shape, no rust, a lot of rosin build up though. The table is flat and the thing is heavy!

I have put it in storage for now, will delay the restore until I can locate a new motor or find a reasonable VFD. Trying to post pictures, but not having luck from my ipad, will post when I am back at my computer.

[Charles Lent]

That's an incredible deal, even with the missing pieces. www.ereplacements.com should be able to get you the arbor nut and a single phase motor (get the 3 hp), although you may be able to find a cheaper source for the motor. A VFD will allow you to use the original 3 phase motor, but you should become familiar with them before you decide to go this way. There are trade offs that you should know about before you decide. Ereplacements might be able to get a motor cover for it, but many of these saws originally came without a cover. The good news is that Delta kept the same cabinet design, so almost any cover that you can find should fit it. You don't want the original 1960's Delta blade guard. It was terrible. Get a Shark Guard/splitter for it and you will be much better off. At least the dust door came with it, and it's usually missing from these older saws. The original miter gauges are easy to find used very reasonably, but they aren't very good, and much better alternatives are available now. Look around and get the one that you like. Don't worry about the missing blade either. You wouldn't likely want the one that might have come with it anyway. Get a new blade with the characteristics that suit what you will be cutting. I would put new arbor bearings in it and replace the belts, since both are probably original and have likely deteriorated. Clean and lubricate the lift and tilt mechanism. I like to use Johnsons Paste Wax applied to the gears and the under table ways with a tooth brush. It gets a hard dry coating on it that prevents the accumulation of sawdust better than an oil lubricant and will last a long time. A calibration check is always a good idea when you first commission a new to you tool. Check the blade tilt to be sure that the stops at 45 and 90 are correct and check to be sure that the miter slots are parallel with the blade. Then check to be sure that the fence works properly and is parallel with the blade. Clean and wax the top and put the saw into use. You will quickly wonder how you ever got along without a Unisaw. When you make/replace the extension table, consider adding an outfeed table too. They can make a big difference, not only in the cut quality, but also in user safety.


Charley