Bandsaw tune up question

[Jon Wilson]

This may sound silly to some but before I waste my time I'd like an
answer...

If I tune up my bandsaw using a 1/2" blade everything should
stay aligned and tracking correctly if/when I switch to a 1/4" blade,
right?

Is it easier to tune with a larger blade and then put on the
smaller blade or vice versa?

and lastly, Anybody else want to throw their
band saw out the window while trying to do a blade change?!? :mad:

[Victor Robinson]

You'll need to track/tension every time you change the blade. It can be frustrating, but will go quicker the more times you do it.

This is one reason why people end up with multiple bandsaws. It can be a PITA to change blades often.

[Roy Hall]

I know what you are going through with blade changes like Victor said "but will go quicker the more times you do it." I have 1 bandsaw Grizzly 14" 555, it took me a while, but now I can do a blade change in about 15 minutes.

[Jerry Thompson]

Look up Alex Snodgrass on Youtube. His vidio will help you immensly.

[Myk Rian]

Track and tension. That's all I've ever needed to do on my Delta 14".

[Jim O'Dell]

I always double check the tracking after de-tensioning a blade and re-tensioning even if I don't change blades. It's just the safe thing to do. And yes, it can be a pain. Especially when it's months between times I use the bandsaw!!! Jim.

[Anthony Diodati]

Track and tension. That's all I've ever needed to do on my Delta 14".

I would also think the rear bearing guide might need adjusted, and the side guides may need adjusted away from the gullets.
I was always told the best/first thing to do was back off the rear thrust bearings, and back off the side guides,before changing the blade. Put your new blade on, tension, track, going by the top wheel, then adjust your guides and thrust bearings.
YMMV

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> I would also think the rear bearing guide might need adjusted, and the side guides may need adjusted away from the gullets.

Absolutely correct......

[Jim Matthews]

Don't forget to use a piece of plywood on the floor if you "Step and twist" to store blades.

Concrete is harder than bandsaw teeth.
Dull teeth can cause cuts to wander, unpredictably.

DAMHIKT

[Roy Harding]

I agree with Victor. You need to track/tension with EVERY blade change. I also agree with him regarding multiple bandsaws. I have one bandsaw which I use for re-sawing - once it's set up, I don't like to change it until the blade is dull, and I have another that I use for everything else "band sawy".

Others have also mentioned that "practice makes perfect", and the more you do it, the faster it'll be. It just takes practice.

[Lee Schierer]

Look up Alex Snodgrass on Youtube. His vidio will help you immensly.

Here's a link to Alex. His methods work even if you don't have the carter guides. Alex (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU)

[Ronald Blue]

I watched Alex Snodgrass in person yesterday and he knows his stuff. Yes he is selling guides too but if you follow his methods it doesn't matter what you have for guides. I know this will start a firestorm but he also says if you have your bandsaw properly dialed in it will be correct for a 1/2" or 1/4" or 3"16 blade. I can hear the gasping now....

[Jon Wilson]

ok, got the bandsaw all tuned up. Everything is
right where it is supposed to be. Got the 1/8" blade on, fire'r up and I don't
think I could cut through butter.

Before the tune up, straight out of the
box, it cut ok. It's a crappy 9" saw but it was cutting boards. The tracking
before I did anything was about as far forward on the upper wheel as it possibly
could be without the blade flying off.


What gives, same blades, only
difference is the tune up.

and for the record, I tried a 1/4" blade
following the same tune up procedure and that blade won't cut either.

It really is a good thing I don't have windows in my shop :rolleyes:

[Lee Schierer]

ok, got the bandsaw all tuned up. Everything is
right where it is supposed to be. Got the 1/8" blade on, fire'r up and I don't
think I could cut through butter.

Before the tune up, straight out of the
box, it cut ok. It's a crappy 9" saw but it was cutting boards. The tracking
before I did anything was about as far forward on the upper wheel as it possibly
could be without the blade flying off.


What gives, same blades, only
difference is the tune up.

and for the record, I tried a 1/4" blade
following the same tune up procedure and that blade won't cut either.

It really is a good thing I don't have windows in my shop :rolleyes:

Did you get the blades on backwards? It's easy to do. It could also mean your blades are just dull.

By the way, it is very doubtful that a 9" saw can properly tension a 1/2" blade.

[Gus Dundon]

Just proper installation of the blade and correct adjustments, you're in the right track. Never use a dull blade. :D