home made gouge handles.

[Matt Mackinnon]

While waiting for my set of ordered bowl gouges to get shipped from LV, I have to start planning on making the handles for them. I have ordered a set of the Hosaluk Ferrules so that I can make up 3-4 handles and trade the gouge fronts if I need.

So I have been reading the Richard Raffan book on turning wood and he recommends that you use Ash for the handles. But I don't happen to have any ash, but have a boat load of Maple. Is there any down side to using what I have? His thoughts were that Ash has pretty straight grain that will run the length of the handle. I don't want to spend money where it simply is not needed, but then I don't want to make my tools more dangerous by simply ignoring what was suggested either.

Also, I am wondering, as I have gotten a set of Oneway gouges that are dual sides so they need quite a deep hole cut into the handle to fit the un-used end of the gouge. I have tried the aluminum handles and found that they feel just too heavy and I don't really like them. Would going maple with a hole thought the middle make a difference?

Thanks

Matt.

[Brian Libby]

Maple will work fine for gouge handles.

[Michael Stafford]

I happen to prefer to make my own wooden handles as well and use adaptors similar to the Hosaluk ferrules. I use different timbers for each tool to be handled. I happen to like the feel of really dense timbers (rosewoods i.e. cocobolo, kingwood, tulipwood, etc. for tools that have to extend farther over the tool rest. I feel that these dense woods provide the extra weight and heft for those operations. For spindle gouges and tools that do not have to reach as far I choose curly and birdseye maple and other timbers to distinguish that family of tools.

I always drill the hole for the shaft deeper than it needs to be so that I can vary the projection of the tool. If I am not working very far over the tool rest I do not need as much tool sticking out of the handle.

I cannot answer your question about the Oneway double ended tools as I have no experience with them.

The long and short of it is use the wood you have. I have quite a few handles turned from red oak and I find them to be attractive and serviceable. Virtually any good hardwood will make a good handle.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

Matt:
I've used the Hosaluk ferrules on four of my handles with no problems, and like them a lot But, a word of caution: they aren't true ferrules in that the end of the handle isn't held captive, or surrounded by the insert like a true ferrule that goes on over the handle end to keep it from splitting out. I suppose that if the handle were small in diameter, with the size of hole required by the Hosaluk ferrule, it's possible that enough force could be generated by a severe catch to split the handle where it's drilled. None of mine have even come close, and I've used maple (out here ours is pretty soft) and walnut, but then I do prefer a beefier handle.
I suppose, if one was inclined to greater security, you could add a copper or brass band at the handle end just where the Hosaluk butts up.

You didn't say what size tools you've got on order, but I've used the maple on a couple of 3/8 gouge handles, and walnut for 1/2" and 5/8".

I do make sure I've got as straight a grain as possible and leave a little bit of meat where the Hosaluk ferrule seats into the handle.

[charlie knighton]

this is one way, not the only way

the handle is dogwood, with plastic pipe ferule

[Matt Mackinnon]

Thanks for the replys. just wanted a sanity check to make sure that I am not crossing the line with logic.

I have on order a 1/2" and 5/8" Patience & Nicholson (P&N) turning tools. I guess that's really 12mm and 16mm bowl gouges. I have as well, a 3/8" Oneway double sided and a 1/2" Oneway double sided bowl gouge. Then there are some other skews that don't have any handles as well. I also ordered one of the Crown PMpro 1/2" gouges, but that comes with a handle so I don't need to worry about that one.

I liked the idea of using some more interesting exotic woods so that you can tell the go-to tools by colour when they are on the "to be made" tool tree. But it seems all just so far off for me right now as it's -20c with the wind chill and we have a good 16" of snow piled up outside the shop that isn't heated. I think I'll be waiting for it to warm up a bit before I get around to turning the handles. .. I hope that the groundhog was right as it might be in a couple of weeks we'll have some reasonable weather again.

Matt.

[Mike Cruz]

I've got one that I made of ash, and one that I made of cocobolo. I like the cocobolo one MUCH better. I have some others in the works, too...

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Although the Oneway handles do not LOOK all that cool, (they may border on cheap looking) I think they are really good. Since they are wrapped (or inside) a pvc hose, they are pretty comfortable, and not cold to hold on to as an aluminum handle is. I have 1/2 and 5/8 Oneway double ended gouges. I have the 5/8 in a McNaughton handle, which adds a lot of weight. The 5/8 gets the rough duties. I like the lightness of the Oneway handle for the 1/2.
I like wood for handles, any type of hardwood would work. Ash is usually kind of boring as far as beauty. Maple can get very pretty.

[Thom Sturgill]

I recently re-handled a number of gouges as I expect to be doing a number of club demos this year and I liked the ability to remove and reverse the tool to protect it during transport and because it makes sharpening easier.

I used a Hosaluk adapter on one handle with aluminum tubing, but its 3/4" tubing for a 3/8" gouge and even with PCV tubing over the aluminum I find that too small for any thing but a spindle detail gouge. What did work for me is to buy 3/4" aluminum tubing with 1/8" wall and 3/4" aluminum rod. Drill the rod for the 3/8" or 1/2" gouge and glue it into the tube. Drill for set screws and cover with clear PVC tube (with reinforcing) from the BORG. I turn a wood plug for the other end. This can vary in species and design (I use hard maple and burn lines) to make them identifiable when looking at the handle end. I might buy an adapter for my 5/8" gouges if I re-handle any of them, though I already have a 5/8" Thompson handle. These cost between $10-$15 each to make. You can insert a plug and insert weight if needed and you can use O-Rings to get a tight seal. I like the weight of them without added ballast.

I have heard tales of Hosaluk adapters splitting handles when getting a catch, but I can't confirm those. I would add a ferrule if I were making a wooden handle. Maple works great, but so do most woods. I have made handles from maple, ash, mahogany, and cherry.

[Michael Stafford]

Thanks for the replys. just wanted a sanity check to make sure that I am not crossing the line with logic.

I have on order a 1/2" and 5/8" Patience & Nicholson (P&N) turning tools. I guess that's really 12mm and 16mm bowl gouges. I have as well, a 3/8" Oneway double sided and a 1/2" Oneway double sided bowl gouge. Then there are some other skews that don't have any handles as well. I also ordered one of the Crown PMpro 1/2" gouges, but that comes with a handle so I don't need to worry about that one.

I liked the idea of using some more interesting exotic woods so that you can tell the go-to tools by colour when they are on the "to be made" tool tree. But it seems all just so far off for me right now as it's -20c with the wind chill and we have a good 16" of snow piled up outside the shop that isn't heated. I think I'll be waiting for it to warm up a bit before I get around to turning the handles. .. I hope that the groundhog was right as it might be in a couple of weeks we'll have some reasonable weather again.

Matt.

Matt you can use maple for all your handles if that is what you have and dye or stain specific handles different colors to differentiate your tools. You could also texture or wire burn lines for decoration to make the handles look different. Maple will readily accept dye and stain so you can make it look pretty exotic if you wish.

[John Keeton]

I have heard tales of Hosaluk adapters splitting handles when getting a catch, but I can't confirm those. I would add a ferrule if I were making a wooden handle. Maple works great, but so do most woods. I have made handles from maple, ash, mahogany, and cherry.Let me confirm the 'tale' for you! In my opinion, it is a horribly designed concept. The idea of drilling a large hole, removing much of the beefiest part of the handle, and having no ferrule to restrain the wood, is just not a good idea.

Using a Hosaluk adapter, I made a handle for one of my 1/2" gouges. In a moment of inattention my gouge tip contacted the wood above the rest, resulting in a catch that smacked the gouge down on the rest. The handle exploded, split 3/4 of the way to the end, and the gouge and adapter ended up hitting the floor about 6' away as it bounced across the shop. I very rarely get catches. I am just not an aggressive turner. When this event happened, I really did not even intend on the gouge contacting the wood as my attention was elsewhere - negligence on my part. Actually, I am glad I wasn't gripping the tool any more than I was, as I feel certain the result would have been worse.

[Mike Cruz]

Thanks, John. I had to go check out their site to see what one was... Gotta say, the site is...horrible.

[Michael Stafford]

Let me confirm the 'tale' for you! In my opinion, it is a horribly designed concept. The idea of drilling a large hole, removing much of the beefiest part of the handle, and having no ferrule to restrain the wood, is just not a good idea.

Using a Hosaluk adapter, I made a handle for one of my 1/2" gouges. In a moment of inattention my gouge tip contacted the wood above the rest, resulting in a catch that smacked the gouge down on the rest. The handle exploded, split 3/4 of the way to the end, and the gouge and adapter ended up hitting the floor about 6' away as it bounced across the shop. I very rarely get catches. I am just not an aggressive turner. When this event happened, I really did not even intend on the gouge contacting the wood as my attention was elsewhere - negligence on my part. Actually, I am glad I wasn't gripping the tool any more than I was, as I feel certain the result would have been worse.

The adaptors I use require only a 1/8" diameter larger hole than the tool diameter. I also epoxy the adaptors in place. I have never had one fail as you describe but I guess it is possible. I have no experience with the Hosaluk adaptors.

[Mike Cruz]

Mike, what brand do you use?

[Michael Gibson]

Here is the tool handle l made From Pear and Cynthia did her thing :)253834253835 The insert came from Thompson Tools. Michael

[Michael Stafford]

If you are asking me Mike Cruz, they are made for our turning club by a local machinist and are available for 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8" tools. We pay $12.50 each for them regardless of size.

Examples pictured below....

253842

I failed to mention that another advantage of adaptors such as this is what when traveling you can reverse the tool and put the cutting edge inside the handle reducing the damage to the cutting edge and to you....;)

[Thom Sturgill]

Michael Gibson, that is too pretty to put my grubby paws on! I would be afraid to use it. Cynthia, I just love your art and hope I can ever get anywhere near your league.

[Mike Cruz]

Yes, Michael, I was asking you. Sorry, I wrote "Mike" because you had Big Mike in your sig line, I suppose.

John, do you see anyting about these inserts that make them any "different" than the one that blew up YOUR handle?

[Matt Mackinnon]

I am now feeling a bit worried about using them. I was looking for some form of adaptor that would allow me to change the front tool part easily if needed.

Now looking at the design of the Hosaluk part, there is quite a difference in gap from the front part that holds the tool, to the back part that fits into the handle. If the issue is the lack of an actual ferrule then would simply putting on an inexspensive brass ferrule to cap over the weaker part of the handle solve the issue? or is it simply making the handle beefier to support the added stresses? I see that Oneway sells an actual ferrule that isn't too badly priced, but it's all about getting the correct angle to make them work.

What sort of ferrule do the rest of you use?? I can easily return the parts to Lee Valley as they have a very good return policy.

Thanks

Matt.

[Bob Hamilton]

Hi, Matt:
The Oneway Thread-lock adaptors work well and also act as a ferrule. I have one in the 3/8" size with a double ended bowl gouge mounted in it. I bought the template to ensure I got the taper right when turning the handle. Since the adaptor threads on to the outside of the tapered section it can be tightened when/if the wood shrinks due to humidity changes. It actually works much better than I expected it to.

Good Luck!
Bob

[John Keeton]

Yes, Michael, I was asking you. Sorry, I wrote "Mike" because you had Big Mike in your sig line, I suppose.

John, do you see anything about these inserts that make them any "different" than the one that blew up YOUR handle?Mike, from the pics, they look identical in design. Obviously, none of this becomes an issue until a catch or such other event occurs - but, that is always the case with design situations. I am sure there are hundreds of folks out there that use similar adapters, and I am glad they work well for them. I won't be using another.

As far as ferrule material, Matt, I use hard copper pipe, and just cut off a section with a tubing cutter. One does need to remove the interior burr when doing that, however. I posted a tutorial here (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?164807-A-handle-for-the-HOG-a-short-tutorial/page2) on how I do handles - for whatever it is worth.

[Lloyd Butler]

Matt,

I think the Hosaluk Ferrules will work just fine. You just need to remember to not take the nose of your handle down too thin. I have one for my 3/8" gouges, well currently only point tool and I have the 18" Hosaluk handle for the 1/2" and 5/8" shafts. It is the same pretty much as Lee Valley's, except his came first. I got the 18" aluminum one to use for hollowing tools.

As others have pointed out, maple is fine for a handle, some people even laminate up blanks. I have a 5/8" extra long drill when you need one to drill out the handle.

If your available next week-end for a few hours, I will very likely have the heat on in my shop if you want to come over and get a little practice.

Lloyd

[Matt Mackinnon]

As others have pointed out, maple is fine for a handle, some people even laminate up blanks. I have a 5/8" extra long drill when you need one to drill out the handle.

If your available next week-end for a few hours, I will very likely have the heat on in my shop if you want to come over and get a little practice.

Lloyd

I think it's supposed to warm up a bit this week and if I can get into my shop to cut off a bit of wood to turn a handle, then that would be perfect. I hope that my order will be into the Burlington LV store for Thursday. I'll give you a call to set something up. Thanks.