Honeycomb table

[Walt Langhans]

Does anyone have a good source for a honey comb table? Preferably some one that you have bought from before.

Thanks

[Tony Lenkic]

En-gravs.com

[Mike Lysov]

Send email to these guys cncenran@hotmail.com

They are in China and can make any size you want, They charge per square meter.
There was a thread here on the forum with the same question and I gave this contact to the guy who wanted to buy it.
I cannot post a link here to that cnczone thread as the last time I did it it was deleted by a moderator.

As far as I know he ordered the table from them but he did not send me his feedback on its quality.

These guys are selling them on alliexpress as well and they advertised themselves on cnczone forum.
But it seems to be cheaper to buy directly from them via email.



I do not know what kind of quality their tables are but they are very cheap and looks good on their pictures.

[Vicki Rivrud]

Hi Walt,
Did you try Ray over at Rabbit USA?

He did have some posted at his site.

Vicki

[Rodne Gold]

Some honeycomb is steel and others are aluminium , we have both , prefer the steel stuff as it doesn't get as damaged as ally and its magnetic (great for using badge type rare earth magnets to hold down stuff) but its not as "flashback" resistant as ally as the cell walls are thicker. Most chinese stuff is steel.

[Mike Null]

The supplier Tony recommended has a very good and inexpensive grid. It's powder coated aluminum and sits on your table on top of a couple of wood risers which allow air flow under the grid. I've been using that grid for many years.

[Kevin Groenke]

We got our last replacements from Plascore.
http://www.plascore.com/honeycomb-cores-aluminum.php


4@1" x 18.5" x 32.5" - 1/4" hex cell - raw 3003 aluminum - $240

-kg

[Walt Langhans]

My issue is that my bed isn't true to the laser head. It's only off by about 1mm or so but it's enough to cause focus issues. I've been able to fix the problem (kind of) by using magnets to attach the honeycomb table to the bed and then shimming the magnets with varying thickness of cardboard. The table is now true to the laser head but my honeycomb table isn't welded together (it has rods running through it in a few places), and the magnets are so strong that they actually pull down sections of the table making it dip in places and thus out of focus. So what I figured I need is a steal welded table, unless of course anyone has any other ideas.

[Mike Null]

Walt

Even if you had a welded table the material could cause a problem. Wouldn't it be better to check what you're doing and shim the job accordingly?

[Walt Langhans]

Walt

Even if you had a welded table the material could cause a problem. Wouldn't it be better to check what you're doing and shim the job accordingly?t

The material (1/8" MDF) is without a doubt part of the issue as well. I have been shimming the job and I'm getting pretty good results. The problem is that it is taking me a while to do the shimming, plus if I make a mistake and press down on the material too hard it pushes down the honey comb table causing a dip and then I have to pull it off the bed and get it flat again.

Each piece of MDF is warped (or not) in a different way each time, but I've been holding down the edges with duct tape (I'm out of magents, had to use them all on the table) and this pretty much evens everything out, assuming I haven't messed up the honeycomb table.

The problem is I plan on doing this for a production environment. I would like to be able to just put down a piece of MDF, make sure it's in the right spot, secure it with magnets and go. Spending 15 minutes getting each piece of MDF true to the head is killing me :( I suppose with more practice I'll get faster but I'm also looking for a better way (more efficeint) to do what I'm doing.

Any ideas are more than welcome and are appreciated.

[Rodne Gold]

What about making a vacuum table with a wooden frame and aluminum sheet as the top/cutting surface , shim it up true and cut directly on the table , drill a lot of small holes , which will evacute a lot of the smoke and resin/fumes thru the table itself when cutting right thru.