Steady Rest build question.

[Brian Kent]

This is my first attempt at a steady rest. I'll make it, use it, and then build a better one.

Meanwhile, I am at the stage of anchoring it to the ways. How is yours anchored?

I know I need to adjust to "exact" height and attach a block the size of the space between the ways. Then I could either put a block underneath or a big washer such as is used on the banjo and tailstock to tighten it. (see photo of bottom of tailstock)

I assume that with a block glued and screwed on the back side, I can put a bolt through that to tighten the bottom. The question is, Is one bolt adequate?

Thanks. Having fun.

[Thomas Canfield]

It looks like you have the basics going. I suggest that you do add a block (less than the way thickmess) fastened to the rest to fit inside the bed ways as a guide to prevent the stand getting out of alignment and then a lower block to clamp against the bottom of the bed ways to fasten the rest. A single bolt would then be adequate. You might consider using a steel plate for clamp that could be threaded or else use a T-nut with a good solid wood block so that you can use a capscrew and washer from the top to lock the rest in place.

[Thom Sturgill]

Timothy Mann recently posted his build: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?197482-Homemade-Steady-Rest - good pictures and looks to be a good build.

I have a steel rest made by Jeff Nichol. It has two bolts - nuts are welded to a steel plate under the ways and are held with two allen headed cap screws. You could probably use Tee-nuts or epoxy in regular hex nuts in a plywood piece under the ways. One comment is that you need to make the next one bigger. You are limiting the size vessel that you can turn.

Also, I sat through a session with Lyle Jamison, who sells a captured hollowing rig. He states that he never uses a steady rest but rather uses a faceplate screwed to the blank. There are tables available to show how far a piece can extend from the support point based on the type of support. Chuck jaws on a tenon is less than chuck jaws in a recess (nova) and faceplates far exceed both. I haven't gone that route myself, but it does give reason to think about how you mount a piece to hollow it.

[Chip Sutherland]

I built a saddle that conformed to my lathe's bed. It wrapped about half way down. I ended up using a clamp underneath the bed to the saddle sides. I had every intent to use a screw mount but just never got around to it. The downside is that when I upgraded my lathe my steady rest wasn't adaptable. My current one is manufactured and it uses 2 screws with a plate that is keyed to the bed. Frankly the screws are a pain. One would be sufficient if the block is keyed to the bed to prevent twisting.

[Brian Kent]

I agree, Thom. I am usually pretty good at picturing things, but this time I pictured it too small. I have gone almost exclusively to starting with a faceplate, then making a recess. All of my bowls have the recess remaining on the bottom. I guess my purpose for the steady rest is to have the chuck option when I make mugs. If I start with a face place I am OK with nothing else.