Freud 8" Dado and Unisaw

[Richard Carner]

Just received a Freud SD 508 stacked dado set. I just barely was able to mount enough chippers and the two outside blades on the arbor then add the flange and nut For a 3/4" cut. What I got is a 10" 3HP Unisaw (36-820). Whew! The nut just has enough thread left to tighten up the stack. I mean barely. I can still feel a slight depression where the opening to the nut comes on contact with end of the arbor. Is my experience 'typical' for this size saw?

[Jim Stewart]

It sounds like you are using the flanged nut that goes onto a standard blade. The saw should have come with another nut. The threads should begin immediately at the edge of the nut. That nut is smaller in diameter than the flanged version. The flanged nut is designed so that you are not as likely to loose it into the saw cavity when changing blades.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Richard, Welcome to the Creek.

The "Forum Tech Support" forum is meant to deal with people who have problems accessing and functioning with Saw Mill Creek.

So, I moved your thread to the General Woodworking and Power Tools Forum where it is more appropriate and will get more replies.

Again, Welcome to the Creek!

[scott spencer]

By "flange" I assume you mean the arbor washer. It's a common and safe practice to use full dado stacks without the washer, as long as the nut is fully seated on the threads....recommended by many dado set manufacturers. The SD508 is a nice set....enjoy!

[Richard Carner]

Richard, Welcome to the Creek.

The "Forum Tech Support" forum is meant to deal with people who have problems accessing and functioning with Saw Mill Creek.

So, I moved your thread to the General Woodworking and Power Tools Forum where it is more appropriate and will get more replies.

Again, Welcome to the Creek!

My apologies. Thank you for moving my topic to the appropriate forum.
R.

[Richard Carner]

By "flange" I assume you mean the arbor washer. It's a common and safe practice to use full dado stacks without the washer, as long as the nut is fully seated on the threads....recommended by many dado set manufacturers. The SD508 is a nice set....enjoy!

I am not sure what Jim is referring too... What you are referring to as an "arbor washer" is called a "flange" in the arbor and carriage assembly schematic that can be viewed here. http://www.ereplacementparts.com/delta-34450-type-unisaw-parts-c-3275_3334_14098.html. Are you suggesting that it's safe to remove the flange and just use the nut? That would solve the real estate problem for sure. The flange, as you know, has a cupped shape and gobbles up space on the arbor. I just want to make sure that I understand you correctly.
Richard.

[Jeff Duncan]

Yup, just put your dado blades on followed by the arbor nut. The washer, or flange, or cup shaped disc of metal, is not necessary on the dado stack b/c of it's thickness/stiffness.

good luck,
JeffD

[scott spencer]

I am not sure what Jim is referring too... What you are referring to as an "arbor washer" is called a "flange" in the arbor and carriage assembly schematic that can be viewed here. http://www.ereplacementparts.com/delta-34450-type-unisaw-parts-c-3275_3334_14098.html. Are you suggesting that it's safe to remove the flange and just use the nut? That would solve the real estate problem for sure. The flange, as you know, has a cupped shape and gobbles up space on the arbor. I just want to make sure that I understand you correctly.
Richard.

Looks like we're talking about the same part. Just as Jeff described, leave it off, and use just the nut....it's a practice that's recommended by several manufacturers, and is indeed safe as long as the nut is fully seated....what you described sounded like it wasn't quite fully seated, or the end of the arbor would protrude just a bit as opposed to leaving a depression.

[Chris Fournier]

I used this dado for almost twenty years on a General 350. Arbor nut only at max stack. Never a problem for me. Great dado!

[Richard Carner]

Looks like we're talking about the same part. Just as Jeff described, leave it off, and use just the nut....it's a practice that's recommended by several manufacturers, and is indeed safe as long as the nut is fully seated....what you described sounded like it wasn't quite fully seated, or the end of the arbor would protrude just a bit as opposed to leaving a depression.

Thanks for the welcome and all of the helpful responses. I'll pull the flange since the consensus is that it will do no harm.
Richard

[Jim Stewart]

I thought that you had the new Unisaw.. a 36 series. Those saws come with separate nuts. The standard saw blade nut has a large flange that is meant to be a blade dampener. The flange is drilled out so that when you are changing blades you slip the nut on and it is guided onto the arbor threads. Never a cross thread you just spin it. It is made so you are less likely to drop the nut in the saw. Then if you wish to use a dado blade you can change to the smaller nut that is threaded continuously. This is a sweet system. If you have the older saw I don't have any knowledge of that.

[Richard Carner]

I thought that you had the new Unisaw.. a 36 series. Those saws come with separate nuts. The standard saw blade nut has a large flange that is meant to be a blade dampener. The flange is drilled out so that when you are changing blades you slip the nut on and it is guided onto the arbor threads. Never a cross thread you just spin it. It is made so you are less likely to drop the nut in the saw. Then if you wish to use a dado blade you can change to the smaller nut that is threaded continuously. This is a sweet system. If you have the older saw I don't have any knowledge of that.

No. I have the 'old' series that was produced when Delta was still an independent company. I purchased this saw back in 1993. It does not have all the bells and whistles that the new version has but it does what I want it to do. All I really need to know is if I can discard the blade dampener (flange) when I am using the 8" dado set. Scott's opinion is that I am good to go. I'm thinking so too. Were talking about a pretty stiff package when it is all squished together with the nut. Doubt seriously that there would be any flexure.