Flexible hose to fit 6" PVC?

[Wade Lippman]

I found some 6" hose on sale at Penn State, but am told it won't go on PVC.
So, is there hose that does go on PVC, or do you have to transition to steel and put the hose on the steel?
Steel is starting to look more attractive...

[Paul Wunder]

Wade, using the above SMC search bar, type in "flex duct" and you will find numerous threads on how to attach plastic flex duct to 6" PVC. There are several good methods, heating the flex, taking a "snip" out of the PVC, and removing the wire for one or two turns from the flex and muscling it on. They all get the job done and each of us has our own method. I cut a 1/4" X 1 1/2" groove at the end of the PVC pipe where I want to put the flex . I then clamped the pipe down until I could slide the flex duct over the pipe.and covered as much of the groove as possible. The rest of the groove was filled with latex or silicone sealant to close. Others will describe a different approach

[Brian Brightwell]

I ordered the same hose from PennState this morning. I would have liked to have ordered the 6 inch hose clamps @ $6.50 for six but the shipping went from ten dollars to $18.50. Toooo Much!

[Wade Lippman]

Wade, using the above SMC search bar, type in "flex duct" and you will find numerous threads on how to attach plastic flex duct to 6" PVC. There are several good methods, heating the flex, taking a "snip" out of the PVC, and removing the wire for one or two turns from the flex and muscling it on. They all get the job done and each of us has our own method. I cut a 1/4" X 1 1/2" groove at the end of the PVC pipe where I want to put the flex . I then clamped the pipe down until I could slide the flex duct over the pipe.and covered as much of the groove as possible. The rest of the groove was filled with latex or silicone sealant to close. Others will describe a different approach

Lots of options; none real good. But thanks

[Dan Hintz]

taking a "snip" out of the PVC, and removing the wire for one or two turns from the flex and muscling it on.
I went with this method... to make it a bit easier, I also ground the outer edge of the PVC pipe so it has a taper. Once the flex tube is started, it slides on with a little back and forth motion.

[Richard Shaefer]

I ahve 6" PVC and just run a simple plastic blast gate at the end of tube. One side of thethe blast gate fits inside the PVC, and the 6" flex line fits over the other side of the blast gate. pretty easy.

[John Coloccia]

6" stove pipe fittings fit like a glove. Sometimes, they're a LITTLE tight on the PVC side, but they usually slip right in nice and snug. I just "flute" them slightly if they're too snug. I happen to have fluting pliers, but just giving little crimps with regular pliers works perfectly well too. FWIW, I get all my 6" hose and clamps from Wynn Environmental.

[ian maybury]

The stock metal male joining sleeve/couplings sold for use to join spiral ducting should fit nicely inside a 6in bore PVC pipe. ( C-1 at the top RHS corner of this page: http://www.spiralmfg.com/miscfitf.htm ) I used them as mounting stubs for flex hose on my spiral - three or four pop rivets and some foil sealing tape does the job.

An alternative might be to use 160mm flex hose slipped over the PVC. (this is a stock Euro size which is probably available in the US - Vulcano in Italy that made mine definitely sell in the US) Not sure how the dimensions would work out, but it shouldn't be too far off. The other end might be problematical though depending on what you need to hook up to..

ian

[Alan Schaffter]

Forgive me if someone already posted this, I might have missed it. I don't put the flex "over" PVC pipe- it is too hard to stretch without removing the metal coil reinforcing. Nor do I make a slit in the end of the PVC and pinch it together so it fits inside the flex- that reduces the ID of the PVC, and though slight, reducing the I.D. can reduce CFM.

I put the flex "INSIDE" the PVC- inside the slip-fit female end (it's not quite a bell end) from a piece of PVC pipe or inside a PCV coupling. The flex fits in that relatively easy. It can be made easier with a bit of water and dish washing detergent.

You can also make your own couplings for flex: Turn a 14" long MDF plug so the O.D. is the same as the O.D. of the flex. Turn down the last two inches of each end to the ID of the PVC pipe, transition to the larger diam. with a 1" long taper, then cut the plug in half. Mount the plug halves on your lathe, tapers facing each other, with a 12" piece of PVC (with square ends!) between them. Crank the tailstock until there is pressure on the assembly. Turn the lathe on to its slowest speed and rest a propane torch with wide tip where one of the plug tapers meets the pipe. As the pipe softens crank a little more. The torch should be aimed at the location of the taper; adjust as necessary as you continue to advance the first plug into the pipe. Stop and let the pipe cool when the plug has expanded 3" of pipe. Do the same at the other end. When done, cutting the pipe in half will yield two quick disconnect couplings for your flex. The flex will slip into the 3" long expanded section and you will have a 2" long male tip that will fit PVC fittings- couplings, elbows, wyes, etc.

Here are some photos you may have seen in another of my posts of a length of flex slipped inside two female pipe ends. The blast gate has male and female halves made with a short length of pipe on one side and half of a PVC coupling on the other. The TS port has a female port made with half of a coupling.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1329/medium/P3070161.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1329/medium/P3070164.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1329/medium/P3070163.JPG

Two 6" and one 4" DC port made from PCV couplings nearly flush with wall. Blast gates are behind the wall.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/P4060034.JPG

[John Poole]

I use a special rubber sewer pipe connector that has metal tightening bands on both ends; they have served me well.

[Jim O'Dell]

The piece of Wynn Environmental hose that came on my cyclone was impossible for me to get over the PVC 6" pipe. I had to replace it with the flex I bought for the shop just to hook up the dust bin! I fought with it for 2 hours with a heat gun and no go. The flex I got is tight, but beveling the end of the tube slightly, I made a sanding disc for the RAS with a V shaped jig for the pipe to sit in and slid the pipe to the disc while turning it, made it go very smoothly. I got my flex from Woodworker's Supply, both the 4 and 6". I figure it's not as tough as the Wynn version, but it hasn't given me any issues in 5 years of use. And it was the lowest priced flex I could find back then. May or may not be now. Jim.

[sean kendrick]

https://youtu.be/N6-3t3qYaSw


I realize this thread is old but i found a 6 inch adapter to fit flex hose on one end and 6 inch schedule 35 on the other end. Works like a charm. From clear vue cyclones

[Bill Jobe]

Thank you, Sean.

[Tom M King]

Second thanks to Sean!

https://www.clearvuecyclones.com/pvc-ducting-accessories/107-6-flex-hose-apdapter.html

[fred everett]

https://youtu.be/N6-3t3qYaSw


I realize this thread is old but i found a 6 inch adapter to fit flex hose on one end and 6 inch schedule 35 on the other end. Works like a charm. From clear vue cyclones


Many thanks Sean. I happen to be in need of that adapter!