Simple basic parting tool

[Brian Kent]

Just tell me which one to buy. The one I have is too short and slips down and binds. I just need a standard for now.

On this one, cheap is good as long as it is the right shape.

Thanks

[Reed Gray]

I guess they are pretty much the same unless you get the McNaughton Coring system which has a straight blade, which is best for deep parting. When using any parting tool, they all seem to have a cutting edge the same width as the shaft of the tool. When making any parting cut more than maybe 1/2 inch deep, you need to open up the kerf/cut. 1 1/2 to 2 times the width of the cutter. This will eliminate the binding, especially if you cut straight in. We do tend to wobble a bit.

robo hippy

[Greg Ketell]

For parting, this is my goto tool: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/7/2/33/135/-/3132/Robert-Sorby-Narrow-Parting-Tool (Robert sorby's narrow parting tool)

but I also have a 1/4" wide tool I use for rounding over pen blanks fast and without chipping.

Really, the question is how are you using yours and on what size turnings.

And, as Robo Hippy says, you have to make sure you don't bind. One way is to make two parallel cuts, another way is to use something like Robert sorby's diamond parting tool where the cutting edge is wider than the rest of the tool.

[Aric Krueger]

When making any parting cut more than maybe 1/2 inch deep, you need to open up the kerf/cut. 1 1/2 to 2 times the width of the cutter. This will eliminate the binding, especially if you cut straight in. We do tend to wobble a bit.

robo hippy

Definitely!! Amen brother! :D


For parting, this is mt gotomeeting tool: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/7/2/33/135/-/3132/Robert-Sorby-Narrow-Parting-Tool



I have the same one and love it. I also have a 3/16" parting tool that works well for establishing diameters/tenons with a caliper.
The diamond cross section shape parting tools cut down on binding but you will still need to open up the kerf because the cutting edge is still the same width as the center of the blade of the tool. They reduce the amount of surface area that would bind.
I've seen somewhere, a parting tool that is tapered top to bottom and tip to handle so the cutting edge is the widest part and eliminates binding and another diamond one that tapered tip to handle that results in the same thing. I don't remember where I saw them though. :confused:

[Brian Kent]

I am using it to separate a bowl or chalice off of a 3-4" base. One is cross grain the other with the grain.

[Mike Peace]

This one is very similar to the Sorby thin parting tool except it is Chinese HSS and is half the price. I have used mine for 5 years without complaint. My club just bought six for our mini lathes.

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=psi%20tenon%20tool&index=blended&link_code=qs&sourceid=Mozilla-search&tag=mozilla-20

[Brian Kent]

Maybe it's just my technique. Is the long side on top or bottom? I keep on getting it trapped between the piece and the tool rest. And do you prefer one that is a straight end or one that has an even or uneven V?

[Peter Blair]

Made mine from Sawsall blade. Ground off the teeth, works better than any of the other three I have BUT as Robo says you need to do a double cut or so to keep the kerf wider than the tool. I use it a LOT when doing my negative space pieces. I cut in from the outer edge to get a good clean start as well as when I leave narrow support bands on the bottom. Wouldn't be without it. I have it sharpened with an uneven V and use it with the shorter side up.

[Thom Sturgill]

If I bought the one Mike showed, I would relieve the bottom like the Sorby. Dave at D-Way has a narrow parting tool (not cheap) that is tapered and CSUSA lists several that are tapered. the taper helps prevent binding and burning.

I own a Sorby and one even thinner that I use when I want the flex to under cut a curve. The problem with parting tools is they will almost always create tear-out. You need to be able to reverse and clean up the bottom. I sometimes use a sanding disk mounted in a drill press for this.

The advantage of thin parting tools is in creating boxes where you disturb the grain between the top and bottom less.

[Alan Trout]

I love my Thompson 1/8" parting tool. Is is made from 1/2" 10V stock. It is the best parting tool I have ever owned. It is one of the best $50 I have ever spent.

Alan

[Greg Ketell]

If you are getting it trapped it is definitely a case of technique. To get it trapped you are only lifting the handle. This means you cutting edge is moving down lower on the side of the turning. You have to lift the handle AND PUSH so that you keep cutting at the same height on the side of the turning.

When I was trying to explain this technique to a new turner I taped a laser-pointer to the tail stock so the beam ran the length of the spindle. Then continue your cut lifting and pushing so the tip of your tool stays in line with the beam.

Gk



Maybe it's just my technique. Is the long side on top or bottom? I keep on getting it trapped between the piece and the tool rest. And do you prefer one that is a straight end or one that has an even or uneven V?

[Josh Bowman]

Brian,
If you have this one:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31T9-TA1CRL._AA160_.jpg
IMO, I would grind it like this one:'
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/images/prod/275/rs_nar_par_too.jpg
And use it with the little bevel down. Allow the tool to ride the bevel as it cuts and it will make strings. As you go deeper, you may have to pull back out and open up the groove by recutting one side. I don't recommend using it like a scraper just use it like a gouge and ride the bevel, and keep it sharp.

[charlie knighton]

i agree with Reed


When making any parting cut more than maybe 1/2 inch deep, you need to open up the kerf/cut. 1 1/2 to 2 times the width of the cutter. This will eliminate the binding, especially if you cut straight in. We do tend to wobble a bit.

i might add, loosen your tailstock a small amount, as you get closer to the center, and SLOW your speed when you get close to parting it off

[Joe Kaufman]

I agree with Alan on the Thompson 1/8" parting tool. Since it is made from round stock there are no sharp edges to cut into soft tool rests.
Joe

[Aric Krueger]

Brian, watch the techniques used by these guys. This might help.. I hope.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_43nB2zTX8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9W2m9JCG6IY

[Philip Duffy]

I make my own from a 6in Ruff Cut saw blade, teeth ground down a bit and then stick a handle on with epoxy. Works for me at 85cents.

[Brian Kent]

Could you link to what you mean, Philip? I am getting lots of different kinds of products when I search.

[Michael Gibson]

l also have just bought a Thompson parting tool and it is by far the best l have used, as others have said make a double cut. Michael

[Jim Burr]

I followed Ted Solokowski's (pardon the spelling) technique of wobbling the parting tool, what ever size in the channel to prevent binding, work every time, including today!

[James Combs]

I followed Ted Solokowski's (pardon the spelling) technique of wobbling the parting tool, what ever size in the channel to prevent binding, work every time, including today!

Also my technique although I would call it twisting the tool a little CW then CCW. Just a little back and forth does it. Never had a binding problem.

[Brian Kent]

James, my binding problem is not side to side, but the tip catching on the piece and snapping it down between the bottom of the piece and the tool rest. It stops the lathe and isn't too good for my tool rest or my peace and calm.

I bought mine used from an experienced turner at the club and assumed everything was good with it. The tang points down about 30° from parallel. It has a very small handle. Its point is on the top of the tool face.

So if I continue to use this I will have a longer handle with a compensating hole so the handle will be parallel to the tool, and I will grind the end so it is a V shape and I can ride a bevel. Then I'll either be happy or buy some happiness ready made. ;)

[David C. Roseman]

Brian, watch the techniques used by these guys. This might help.. I hope.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_43nB2zTX8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9W2m9JCG6IY

Thanks, for posting these, Aric. Good links. Especially like John Lucas'.

[Brian Kent]

Sweet! Dude! It worked.

I took a HSS scraper that I use less and ground a V on the end. I used the techniques on the Lucas video, and finally it worked clean and smooth and even fast. It looked like what I have been seeing in the videos. No catches, no binding (I used your recommendation of 2 parts right next to each other.

All is well.

Thank you.

Brian