Belated gloat

[Jerry Marcantel]

Hi folks, some of you know that my wife and I visited Mr. Mrs. Keeton on the 29th and 30 th of December. He gave me a bunch of wood consisting of Bradford Pear, Silver Maple, a couple of Walnut rounds about 6" diameter, and a couple Walnut trees, about 18"od and 24" long. 253260 He also gave me a form he started that ended up cracking. 253265 I guess John figured I like living on that edge some of us talk about at times when describing something we just did that should have injured or killed us. I did some turning on it and put it away to completely dry before I attempt to finish it after the cracks are stabalized.
Anyway, today I took one of the small rounds and set up to turn. 253269 A little over half way on the outside shape, I stopped to take a look to see if the cracks were still there.Guess what? They were. 253270

This is the second batch of Walnut I've gotten from the east, and I've noticed that the wood dries from the bark towards the center. John sealed this wood, gave it to me, and I brought it home to Arizona, stored it in a cool dry place, lots of wind blowing around it, and it's cracked from the sapwood to the heartwood......
I went ahead and turned the form, and will stabalize the cracks later. I did my best to keep the bark on, but most of it took flight at various times while turning. Done for now piece.... 253274
More to gloat about253275. This spalted burled and ambrosia maple came form near Branson, Missouri. It's absolutely gorgeous, and if anyone living near there and would like some of this wood, contact me and I'll give you the property owners name and number, plus the coordinates of where the tree is. It's a stump about 36" high x 24-30"od.. I took all I could and had to leave the stupm still standing, which is pretty loose and wouldn't take much to get it out of the ground.......... There are also 2 pieces of Cedar to the left that came from near the maple.
Another gloat..... After leaving Keeton's, Ihad an appointment with the owner of Easy Wood Tools. I got 3 tools from him 253279, but the biggest part of this gloat is that he wanted 4 of my peices for his collection..........
OK Brian, nows' you chance for payback..heheheeh.............. Jerry (in Tucson)

[Roger Chandler]

Congrats on the wood and the tools Jerry! I am too far away from Branson to get some of that particular wood.......very nice of you to offer some to others who might need some wood.

[Scott Hackler]

It that faceplate that spiked deal you made?

[Brian Kent]

Dude! It is awesome wood. Sorry I missed your thread before. This is good stuff.

To stabilize those cracks, all you need to do is sand a ring using 400 grit - just hold it there and watch a couple of movies in the shop. Then cut a ring and insert. Finish form. Turn off the ring.

Never mind. Just come on over to Escondido and I'll show you ;).

[Roger Chandler]

I think Jerry needs to post a pic here with the wheel assembly attached..........maybe he will see this and post a couple more pics!

[charlie knighton]

good haul, sorry about the cracks but eastern wood will crack sometimes, looking forward to see what you make of the maple, hope you have better luck with cedar that i do, i have seen some nice cedar stuff on this board

[Richard Golde]

Great haul but add me to Scott and Roger about wanting to know more about the faceplate jig you are holding the wood with. Thats not your fathers jig. Pun intended. Looks interesting and a different way to turn.

[Jerry Marcantel]

All that commented get "F's", except for Roger on his second post.. Look at the 3rd and 4th pictures at the beginning of the post.. What looks odd????
Here is a hint......... 255018255019255020255021 These wheels could make every other type of hold down obsolete....






Here is what I've done with my Chuck Plate. I either attach the plate to the chuck plate, or just put it on and use compression between centers, and then turn off the tenon...... The CP is turning out to be a pretty good tool......... Jerry (in Tucson)
255023255024

[Greg Ketell]

All that commented get "F's", except for Roger on his second post.. Look at the 3rd and 4th pictures at the beginning of the post.. What looks odd????

Didn't realize we would be graded in how well we read your posts. Oh well. Cute idea. Next time, start a new thread for something unique, don't bury it at post 7. Sheeeesh

[Scott Hackler]

That is an interesting tailstock mounted device. I will admit that the way the photos were scattered throughout the post, I did not pick up on the new invention that Roger hinted about.

Now that you've shown upclose photos of it, I can see how that would be handy. Too bad I don't own a threaded tailstock center to make one of those for myself! I do like that spiked faceplate and have seen something similar at the symposiums and thought that it might be very handy to start between centers when a pick isn't flat on the headstock side.

[Richard Jones]

........I do like that spiked faceplate and have seen something similar at the symposiums and thought that it might be very handy to start between centers when a pick isn't flat on the headstock side.

Scott,

Richard Raffan has a similar one in a couple of his older books. That's where I got "my" idea for one........................

[Jerry Marcantel]

Didn't realize we would be graded in how well we read your posts. Oh well. Cute idea. Next time, start a new thread for something unique, don't bury it at post 7. Sheeeesh
Greg, I didn't bury it in post 7. It started on Page 1, and ended up on page 7 before any notice of it. But thanks for your critique...... .... jerry

[Jerry Marcantel]

Scott,

Richard Raffan has a similar one in a couple of his older books. That's where I got "my" idea for one........................

Richard, since you addressed Scott instead of me, I'm going to ask what book does Raffin have that has that item in it???? I'm curious because I would like to believe I'm the person who made the first one, because I don't want to take credit for something that someone has already made....... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Jerry Marcantel]

That is an interesting tailstock mounted device. I will admit that the way the photos were scattered throughout the post, I did not pick up on the new invention that Roger hinted about.

Now that you've shown upclose photos of it, I can see how that would be handy. Too bad I don't own a threaded tailstock center to make one of those for myself! I do like that spiked faceplate and have seen something similar at the symposiums and thought that it might be very handy to start between centers when a pick isn't flat on the headstock side.

Scott, do you have a Multi Star 32 live center? Maybe I can set you up with a pair of those wheels to test....... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Jerry Marcantel]

Dude! It is awesome wood. Sorry I missed your thread before. This is good stuff.

To stabilize those cracks, all you need to do is sand a ring using 400 grit - just hold it there and watch a couple of movies in the shop. Then cut a ring and insert. Finish form. Turn off the ring.

Never mind. Just come on over to Escondido and I'll show you ;).


Better yet, Brian, come out to Tucson, with a pick up, and I'll load you up with so much wood you might think you won't make it home without a breakdown. Actually, I go to Orange County about 3 times a year on I-10, but I'm familiar with Escondido. Must take I-8 to 15 then north. I might stop by next trip out. You've just now been officially warned..... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Harry Gremminger]

Glenn Lucas uses a faceplate like that in his bowl video.

[Timothy Mann]

Richard, since you addressed Scott instead of me, I'm going to ask what book does Raffin have that has that item in it???? I'm curious because I would like to believe I'm the person who made the first one, because I don't want to take credit for something that someone has already made....... Jerry (in Tucson)

If you scroll to page 25 on this link you will see something somewhat similar that Raffen uses...I do not know if this is what Richard was refering to or not. But Raffen does use this... http://books.google.com/books?id=JwjVI7Ojto8C&pg=PA27&lpg=PA27&dq=richard+raffen+face+plate&source=bl&ots=_5xIT4LmPk&sig=jHuqfl1wjPFW6VkfOQvmJbomNgE&hl=en&sa=X&ei=P8kmUez0EcW60QGw_YGQBQ&ved=0CDMQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=richard%20raffen%20face%20plate&f=false

[Scott Hackler]

Scott, do you have a Multi Star 32 live center? Maybe I can set you up with a pair of those wheels to test....... Jerry (in Tucson)
I don't think so.? I have an electronic cheapo from Woodcraft in my Nova 1624

[Jerry Marcantel]

If you scroll to page 25 on this link you will see something somewhat similar that Raffen uses...I do not know if this is what Richard was refering to or not. But Raffen does use this... http://books.google.com/books?id=JwjVI7Ojto8C&pg=PA27&lpg=PA27&dq=richard+raffen+face+plate&source=bl&ots=_5xIT4LmPk&sig=jHuqfl1wjPFW6VkfOQvmJbomNgE&hl=en&sa=X&ei=P8kmUez0EcW60QGw_YGQBQ&ved=0CDMQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=richard%20raffen%20face%20plate&f=false

Sorry Tim, page 25 isn't shown in the book preview. I looked through one of his books in December, and didn't see anything remotely resembling the Chuck Plate. I know that Vermek/Vermec? makes something along the lines of what I made, or vice Versa, but it's smaller, and has only 4 contact points. They never show the headstock side of their tool. I think you can find it on the Vicmark site.
The chuck plate I made is for use between centers only,and it's eliminates the need to remove the chuck from the lathe. The wood you put between centers does not need to be flat, nor screwed onto the CP. The wood can also not have a center because 8 of the screws are set in a 3 1/2" diameter. A spur only about a 1 1/4" wide cross or X, and I kept burying them in green mesquite. That doesn't happen anymore..... . Go to articles, click on tools, and look for How to build a Chuck Plate.. It's very simple, and if you have a chuck and you build a CP, you may never use your spurs or faceplates again.... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Jerry Marcantel]

I don't think so.? I have an electronic cheapo from Woodcraft in my Nova 1624 Too bad Scott, I gave a set of wheel to someone that on SMC hasn't used it yet, and he might still want to return it to me. The only problem with that, it was made to fit on a Multi Star 32. If your center is the same OD and length, maybe we could sweet talk this guy into letting you have it. Let me know what the OD and length of the bearing body is and if the bearing body rotates or not. The point or cup ring is the only thing that should rotate to use the wheels. ........ Jerry (in Tucson)

[Pat Scott]

Sorry to say your faceplate idea is not new. Brian McEvoy out of Canada has made his "Elio Drive" faceplate for years. His has two screws, yours has 4. Brian has a video on his website where he shows the Elio in use and explains the reason for 2 screws.

[Jerry Marcantel]

Sorry to say your faceplate idea is not new. Brian McEvoy out of Canada has made his "Elio Drive" faceplate for years. His has two screws, yours has 4. Brian has a video on his website where he shows the Elio in use and explains the reason for 2 screws.

Sorry, Pat, the Elio drive has a MT 2 taper. You need to remove the chuck to use it. My Chuck plate is used in the chuck, and has 13 screws for better grip between centers........ Jerry (in Tucson)

[Michael Kellough]

Richard, since you addressed Scott instead of me, I'm going to ask what book does Raffin have that has that item in it???? I'm curious because I would like to believe I'm the person who made the first one, because I don't want to take credit for something that someone has already made....... Jerry (in Tucson)

Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Turning, by Raffan, page 77. He shows a homemade spur drive fashined from a plain old cast iron faceplate (multi-screw chuck). It's about 5 to 6" in dia. and has only two spures which are simply hex head cap screws through the existing holes held captive by nuts on the front of the faceplate. The screws were sharpened on a grinder prior to assembly. In this book he drills holes in the blank and inserts the pointed screws in the holes. In the book Turning Bowls he shows the same chuck (in the pictures you can't even see the spurs) but he drives the spurs into the blank with a hammer.

You'd probably have to be a beginner like me to even notice the thing. The presentation in the books is very lowkey.

Your multi-spur Chuck Plate is much more refined. I really like the quick-release jamb chucks (or whatever you call them).

[Jim Burr]

Ton-o-wood ya got there Jerry! I use the chuck you gave me a lot...really good when you have a piece of "Oh crap...what do I do" blanks! Nice save on the blank from JK! Have you tried the EWT's yet? I have the Ci1 and it rocks!!

[Jerry Marcantel]

blanks! Nice save on the blank from JK! Have you tried the EWT's yet? I have the Ci1 and it rocks!!

Jim, that's pretty much the only tools I've used since my trip ended January 4th.. They are great, but there is a learning curve. One drawback is you forget how to sharpen the other tools since you don't need to sharpen these. I've turned about a dozen forms, and have only used two sides of the large roughing tool. It's still sharp. I would recommend these for pretty much all turning stages once you learn how to use them.... ... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Greg Bender]

Jerry,
do you sell those face plates ,or give out any of the details? I definitely have the machinery to make one but I was curious on the specifics. Do you have multiple sizes? That tail stock mounted wheel setup is a great idea.
Greg

[Jerry Marcantel]

Jerry,
do you sell those face plates ,or give out any of the details? I definitely have the machinery to make one but I was curious on the specifics. Do you have multiple sizes? That tail stock mounted wheel setup is a great idea.
Greg

Greg, on this site, SMC, go the home page, look in the header for a button that says"Articles", just to the right of "Forums". Click on that and look for "Tools" on the left side of the page. Ckick on that, then scroll down until you come to "How to build a Chuck Plate". All the details are there on how to build one from Baltic Birch plywood with solid wood for the tenon. I have since decided it should all be plywood. The screws cause the solid wood tenon to split. Also, change the screw size to #12's.....

I'm getting a quote from a die casting company to cast these in aluminum, and it looks like I'm going to pull the plug on a thousand piece order to start with.
.
The wheels are still in the research phase. I actually made that live center from a piece of 1 7/8 bar stock. It was a piece of cake, especially turning the threads and MY 2 taper. The ring with the inside threads were not as tough as I thought they would be..
I got a few wheels from Jeff Nichol because the ones I got here in Tucson were too hard. I'm going to make a few more live center wheel combo's soon and pass them out for product evaluation.. I should have a complete set of instructions by then also as I'm using this as much as I use the Chuck plate now. I have about 5 hours of video using it, but my computer doesn't want to cooperate with me. Can't burn a disc. Darn..............
I've done about 20-22 forms successfully. I had 2 blow up, and only because the wood was worm eaten Mesquite that blew apart in the bowl section, not anywhere near the tenon... It's probably a good tool, but won't know until several people are using them.
Sorry about being long winded........... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Peter Blair]

Wow Jerry! You can add me to the list that for some reason I usually just look at the wood and I know I should look around the main piece to see what the author is doing.

I'm wondering if the 'wheel live center' could be made to fit on my Oneway live centre? Just sort of thinking out loud that I might be able to use the pin to stop it from turning. Gotta give it a try. Looks like one really great idea!

[Jerry Marcantel]

Wow Jerry! You can add me to the list that for some reason I usually just look at the wood and I know I should look around the main piece to see what the author is doing.

I'm wondering if the 'wheel live center' could be made to fit on my Oneway live centre? Just sort of thinking out loud that I might be able to use the pin to stop it from turning. Gotta give it a try. Looks like one really great idea!


Pete, if you have dial calipers reading in thousand's, measure the OD and let me know what it is. The Oneway is long enough for the wheels.......... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Peter Blair]

Hey Jerry. I am assuming you mean the outside diameter of the quill of my Oneway.
The manufacturer says its


The casting is ductile, and is designed to bend before it will break.
Other Features:

The tailstock has an 1-1/2" diameter quill with 4" travel.
The lead screw is a 3/4" diameter 6 pitch acme thread and the barrel has a 3-1/2" bearing length


I on the other hand measure it between 1.4845 and 1.4858
Does this help?

[Jerry Marcantel]

[QUOTE=Peter Blair;2069342]Hey Jerry. I am assuming you mean the outside diameter of the quill of my Oneway.
The manufacturer says its

Pete, I asked for the OD of the bearing housing on the live center........ Okie dokie..... If you get that deminsion, I'll see what I can do. The Oneway center has perfect bearing housing length, so the wheels will work if the OD is no larger than 1.430. I think that the dem on the MS32.... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Peter Blair]

Hey Jerry. Sorry I misunderstood, only explanation I can come up with is that I'm OLD!!!

Unfortunately the bearing housing is larger 1.616, by my old eyes . . .

I was thinking of attaching via the 3/4" threads on the Oneway.

Again I must apologize, not sue what "I think that the dem on the MS32" refers to.

Anyway,your tail stock support looks really cool it's one of those "why didn't I think of that" senior moments.