Basic table saw questions - Grizzly

[Mark W Pugh]

May be in the market for a new table saw. I currently have an old contractor Craftsman. Lot’s of problems that I am tired of dealing with. I’m a hobbyist and have read through, what seems like thousands, of reviews. I know that there is never one saw that pleases all.


So, I have it narrowed down to the Grizzly G0691 or the G1023RLX, I think. A couple of questions.


Riving knife. Never had one, never used one. Can they be used with thin kerf blades? Are they adjusted to parallel the cutting edge facing the fence, or is it just center mass of the blade kerf?


T-slot miter gauge. Is there much slop in the fit?


Fence. On this thread, http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?147080-My-G1023RL-review/page2&p=1500209&highlight=g1023rl (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?147080-My-G1023RL-review/page2&p=1500209&highlight=g1023rl), there seems to be a discussion that there is no way to adjust the fence to parallel the blade. This can’t be true, is it?


I’m sure there will be more questions. Thanks for any replies.

[John Donofrio]

Hi Mark,

I just went through that table saw debate last spring. I went with the Grizzly G0690, the same one as the G0691 except for the table extension. You would be happy with it, trust me.

On to your questions.

The riving knife is there to prevent the workpiece from closing up around the back of the blade and thereby causing a kickback. The delivered riving knife cannot be used with a thin kerf blade but you could easily have one made that would work. Unless you are trying to conserve material, though, there is no reason. The saw has plenty of power.

The miter gauge slots are standard size and they don't seem to have any more slop in them than any other miter gauge slot I've seen. The miter gauge that comes with the saw is adjustable to remove any slop and any reasonable quality aftermarket miter gauge should be able to do the same..

The fence is adjustable in every plane. Not sure why someone would say it cannot be adjusted parallel to the blade. [EDIT} Just realized the fence question was geared toward the G1023RL. My comment is towards the G0690/91. Cannot speak to the G1023RL.

[Cary Falk]

Fence. On this thread, http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?147080-My-G1023RL-review/page2&p=1500209&highlight=g1023rl (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?147080-My-G1023RL-review/page2&p=1500209&highlight=g1023rl), there seems to be a discussion that there is no way to adjust the fence to parallel the blade. This can’t be true, is it?


Mark,
That was my thread. The fence is easily adjustable to be parallel to the blade. What is being referred to are the 2 teflon set screws on each side of the front of the fence that ride the rail. These are used to make the face of the fence square to the table. My old T2 had them:
253115

THe fence on the G0690/691 has them:
http://cdn0.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg500/g/g0690_det3.jpg


It is a non issue if you put the front rail on parallel to the table top. You can tweek it a little by putting in one bolt on the end of the fence and pushing up or pulling down the far end of the fence. The fence has pads under it that ride the top of the table . I have thought about buying some teflon plugs from ACE and tap my own holes and put some in but I haven't needed to. I hope that clears it up. I still love my G1023RL so if you have any questions, let me know in this thread or by pm.
Cary

[Mark W Pugh]

Mark,
These are used to make the face of the fence square to the table.


"Face of the fence", are you talking about the piece that runs on the rail? I'm taking the "face of the fence" as the working surface. Are you talking about the vertical component of the fence? Thanks, a little dense this morning.

[Cary Falk]

Mark, I am talking about the working part of the fence. The piece that the wood rides against when you rip it.

[Prashun Patel]

No need to use a TK blade on a cabinet saw. In fact, you might find that even regular kerf blades vary in thickness to a small degree. So, don't be alarmed if you have to sand your knife down a smidge to fit certain blades.

[keith micinski]

It was me that made the comment about the fence not being able to be adjusted square withy the table top short of moving the mounting tube around. The problem with this is mine was so out of square to have the fence square to the table top I had to have the tube raised so high on one end it interfered with things. It seemed like there was something else to but this was a couple of years ago and I cant remember off the top of my head what the other problem was. I literally only used this fence to build my side cabinet so that I could get my Unifence mounted to the saw. I am not a very good judge of a bies type fence because I have very little experience with them and I love my unifence so much I am probably biased. That was just one of the little quirks I noticed that mot other fences have. Carry what kind of a sliding fence is that mounted to your saw I have never seen one that small and it looks handy for cross cutting small pieces which is mostly what I deal with.

[keith micinski]

The pictures finally showed up in Carry's thread and that is as good of a description as it gets and it is also the fix that I would do if for some reason I ever had that fence again which I don't see happening.

[Cary Falk]

Keith,
It's funny to see people's preferences on fences. My friend has a Uni fence and I hate it. To each his own. The slider is a JessEm Mast-R-Slide. They currently don't make them but I have heard rumors that they are going to start up again. It's a shame because it is a great little slider if your table saw is on wheels like mine. Rockler carried them with their name on them with a blue fence instead of red. I got this one new off E-bay for considerbly less then the $600 retail price.
Cary

[Jim Tabor]

Mark,
I went over to the Springfield store a couple of days after Christmas because I wanted to compare the 690 and 1023RL side by side and I can tell you it was a tough choice. After talking to the sales people and walking back and forth for over an hour I finally chose the 1023RL. It came down to something not very important at all, the location of the dust collector duct. After getting it home and set-up, I checked everything for square and parallel and the saw was perfect, I did’nt need to adjust anything. I agree that you don’t need TK blades with a 3HP cabinet saw but I have some very good TK left from my previous saw. I also cut very thin strips for Shaker boxes and theTK’s works very well for that. As for the riving knife, I use it with both RK and TK and it seems to work just fine. I’m very pleased with the 1023 and I would probably be just as happy it I had chose the 690. Flip a coin.

[Scott Reed]

I'm trying to make this same decision right now and it's driving me crazy! Both are great saws I'm sure but knowing me, whichever I choose, I will always wonder if I made the right decision. These saw are too similar. I'm almost to the point of buying neither, save up a lot more money and buy the 3hp Sawstop. Jim, did any of the sales guy offer why one might be the better choice than the other? I know you chose the 1023 because of the dust port, anything else I should consider?

[Cary Falk]

I'm trying to make this same decision right now and it's driving me crazy! Both are great saws I'm sure but knowing me, whichever I choose, I will always wonder if I made the right decision. These saw are too similar. I'm almost to the point of buying neither, save up a lot more money and buy the 3hp Sawstop. Jim, did any of the sales guy offer why one might be the better choice than the other? I know you chose the 1023 because of the dust port, anything else I should consider?
blade shroud vs none
serpentine belt vs 3 v-belts
fences
std grizzly motor vs Asian made Leeson
price

[Jim Tabor]

Scott,
I was also thinking about a SawStop but I desided the grizzly would do me just fine. I have so many Grizzly products I have trouble counting then all, and they have all been perfect. Sometimes I think they put a store and warehouse in Springfield just to get me in there. Cary points out the main difference between the two saws, plus the 1023 is made in Taiwan, China for the 690. To me, the fences are a toss-up. The sales guy said the 1023 serpentine belt should have a little more torque than the 690 three v-belt system, but he did'nt sound real sure about that. I really can't tell you much more than that. I'm no expert on table saws, and I've not been to a Holiday Inn Express in years.

[David Helm]

I have the 1023RLX. Like Jim said, it was perfect right out of the box. My decision was based on dust collection and the full width extension table, which has become a router table. The price differences are minimal. It is, in fact, a better saw than my Jet cabinet saw was.

[John Donofrio]

Are they adjusted to parallel the cutting edge facing the fence, or is it just center mass of the blade kerf?

Sorry Mark. I realized I didn't really answer your question as it pertains to the adjustment of the riving knife. Once again I can only speak to the G0690.

The riving knife is completely adjustable (although it's not much fun). The ideal adjustment is to have the knife ride centered between and parallel to the kerf walls behind the blade. One could make an argument the it should ride flush to the 'inside' kerf wall but if the blade is sized properly, I believe centered is good. If all is adjusted properly (fence included), the knife will by default be parallel to the face of the fence. [EDIT] but only when the blade is at 90 to the table as the riving knife tilts with the blade.

253141

[Howard Acheson]

I would suggest you call Grizzly and ask them your questions. Their tech folks are generally happy to talk to you.

>>>> there is no way to adjust the fence to parallel the blade. This can’t be true, is it?

The issue as I read it, was that there was no way to adjust the fence face to be perpendicular to the table surface. I could be wrong. That said, when aligning a table saw, you don't adjust the fence to the blade. Both the blade and fence are aligned to be parallel to the miter slot.

[Scott Reed]

blade shroud vs none
serpentine belt vs 3 v-belts
fences
std grizzly motor vs Asian made Leeson
price
I'm aware of these differences but I don't if these differences make one better than the other. The single belt better than 3? I'm under the assumption that the Taiwan made products are better so is it safe to assume that the 1023 may be the better overall saw? I like the idea of the Leeson motor of the 690 but since it's also Asian made does it even matter?

[Cary Falk]

Scott,
Unfortunately there is not a clear winner. Both saws are pretty well received. I chose the 1023 for the blade shroud. The one Grizzly tool that I have that was made in China doesn't have the level of fit and finish as the others. I'm not saying it is horrible just not as good. Owners of the 690 say the fit and finish is great. I had a Unisaw which is what the 690 is cloned off of, and I am happier with the 1023. The gas shock assisted blaed elevation makes raising and lowering the blade super smooth still after 2 years. The serpentine belt is smoother than my Uni 3 belt system ever was without a thump on startup. Does the 690 have the same issues that my uni did? I don't know because I never played with one. My guess is no because I haven't heard any complaints. The motor on my 1023 runs at 15 amps. The 690 runs at 14amps. My Baldor in my Uni ran at 12.5. In my day to day use I don't see any difference. I guess what I am trying to say is that I picked the 1023 and never once did I think I made the wrong decision. I'm sure the 690 folks think the same. A lot of people made the decision by what was in stock at the time and how fast they wanted it.

[Jim O'Dell]

I guess I was lucky as the 1023R series wasn't out when I got my 691. But I did help a fellow Creeker set up his 1023RL a while back, and if I had to do it again, I'd still go for the 691 for me. Nothing to do with the quality of the saw, the fit and finish or any of that. The two saws were very evenly matched as far as I was concerned. The blade shroud would be nice, but for me having the dust hook up on the right side of the saw (perfect pun) and on a removable door that is easily modified for a larger pipe if one so desired (I did-6" hook up to the cabinet) were deciding factors for me over any of the other saws close to the same price range.
The only other difference I know of is the trunnion set up is different between the two saws. The 690/1 have a modified version of the trunnion that so many cabinet saws have used for decades (modification is for the true riving knife). The 1023R series has a newly designed trunnion set up specifically designed for the true riving knife. IIRC, it is on key ways or a dove tail and goes straight up and down instead of the arc that the old design has. Both are beefy, there is no problem with one style over the other. The serpentine belt is supposed to transfer power more efficiently and be quieter in the process. The main advantage I see in that is you don't have to worry about 3 belts being identical when replacing. There is the issue with getting 3 belts that are matched on the old drive system. I think these sets are 3 belts cut off in sequence from the same roll so that they are identical, as opposed to 3 belts cut from different rolls. Can't just go down to the auto parts store and find this, where if you can match the length of the serpentine belt, you have no other issue. I've thought if I ever had a problem, could I purchase pulleys to replace the old set up with a serpentine belt system. I'm sure this could be done. Doubt that I will ever need to though. I do like that the 691 has a Leeson designed motor. Doesn't mean that the saw cuts better or the motor will last longer.
I just comes down to choice. I will say that I was able to duplicate the Green paint that is on the 691 from the paint manufacturer and painted my home made base with it. It turns out slightly different hue when painted on wood than the metal (kind of like car paint on metal or plastic parts are slightly off) but it made me happy.;) Jim.

[Jim Andrew]

I just talked to a guy yesterday who had just sold his 690, and that it was nowhere close to the 1023 his son has.

[Matt Marsh]

Mark,

I bought the Shop Fox W1820, which is the same machine as the Grizz 691 with some cosmetic differences. I bought it through amazon.com a little over a year ago. I chose the Shop Fox over the Grizz because at the time they were about the same price, but the Shop Fox offered free super saver shipping, where the Grizz did not. I also prefered the colors and the cool beveled corners on the cabinet of the Shop Fox :p. I see they've since jacked up the prices of the Shop Fox, so that is probably a non factor now. I made the same switch from an 80s era Craftsman 10" contractor's saw. Believe me, you won't be sorry! The miter gauge fits the T-slot perfectly, and is a joy to use. The saw has awesome power, and is rock solid. I don't own a thin kerf blade yet, so cannot speak to that. My fence was dead on right out of the box.

Because of my trade, I have had the opportunity to use many different saws over the years. We have Powermatic, a few old Deltas, and have recently added two SawStops to the various shops around the college campus where I work. Yeah, they're all nice, but from where I stand, you pay a lot more for a disproportionate amount of gain.
Now donning my 40 cal arc/flash PPE ;).

[Mark W Pugh]

Ok, reading through the owner's manual, it looks like a fairly involved process to change drive belt. Anyone have to do this yet? Thoughts?

[Cary Falk]

Ok, reading through the owner's manual, it looks like a fairly involved process to change drive belt. Anyone have to do this yet? Thoughts?

The belt is not as hard to get to as the manual says. Go to post #23 of my review thread that you posted and it shows how easy it is to get to it.

[glenn bradley]

I too keep vacillating between the G0691 and the G1023. Sooner or later I will just buy one. The 1023 is a proven performer with a massive structure. The G0691 is a clone of the older Unisaw and wins praise form many folks who's opinions I respect; I do prefer the G0691's fence. Speaking of fences (I have a Beisemeyer) it is true that you must mount the fence rail correctly to have the fence faces perpendicular to the table. The improved adjusters on the newer fences are very convenient but, they are for final tuning and not intended to make up for a crooked tube mount ;-) Mounting the tube on a slant would cause various problems with plane of travel and all that but, to each their own. One of the things that makes it hard for me to upgrade my current (no longer available) saw is that it does everything I ask and I love my Beis fence. Raw horsepower is always a temptress.

[Cary Falk]

Glen,
If you want the 1023 but don't like the fence, put the Beisemeyer fence on the G1023 and sell the Shop Fox with the old saw. Best of both worlds.

[Phillip Gregory]

After recently acquiring, disassembling, and reassembling a Shop Fox W1820 (identical to the Grizzly G0691), here are a few answers to the questions the OP and others raised:

1. Riving knife- I had never used one before either. They are marked as to the allowable kerf widths you can use with them. Off the top of my head it's about 0.100 minimum kerf. The alignment is such that the center of the knife is lined up with the center of the blade. The quick and dirty way to tell if your blade will work if you don't have a micrometer is to put the cutting surface of the teeth of a blade next to the knife. If the teeth are wider than the knife, you are good to go. If the knife is wider than the teeth, then you need to remove the riving knife before using that blade.

2. T-slot miter gauge- no slop in mine. It also comes with a nice fence on the gauge, or at least much nicer than what came with the late '70s/early '80s Craftsman flex-drive contractor saw I had been using before.

3. You can adjust the fence to be parallel to the blade by adjusting the two set screws on the front of the fence bracket (part that goes over the front fence rail.) My rails were near perfectly parallel to the blade as I meticulously aligned them with a big long straightedge and level to get them square and level when I put the rails on the saw. So I didn't need to adjust the fence very much at all.

4. The fit and finish on my Chinese made saw is excellent. The adjustments for the blade height and angle work very nicely although they will wander after a few cuts if you don't turn the center cap to lock them in. This is considerably different from the old Craftman contractor saw which used high friction bushings to hold the adjustments steady.

5. There is no bang on start-up. Just a soft click from the magnetic switch, a split-second hum from the motor as it spins up and then the whistle of the blade teeth cutting through the air. The 3 hp Leeson is rated at 12.8 FLA and comes with a 14 ga cord but has a 6-20 plug attached.

6. I haven't cut any thick hardwoods yet but the 3 hp saw could barely even tell when I resawed a 4x4 down to 3x3 for the legs of a project using a 40T full kerf blade. There was no way I could do that on the old 1 hp contractor saw as somebody else had tried to do some resawing on that saw before with I believe a 24T blade and all it did was scorch the wood and trip the 20 amp/120 V breaker repeatedly. I guess the 5 hp 10" saws are for folks who want to resaw stuff like maple on their tablesaws.

[Mark W Pugh]

Thanks Phillip!


After recently acquiring, disassembling, and reassembling a Shop Fox W1820 (identical to the Grizzly G0691), here are a few answers to the questions the OP and others raised:

1. Riving knife- I had never used one before either. They are marked as to the allowable kerf widths you can use with them. Off the top of my head it's about 0.100 minimum kerf. The alignment is such that the center of the knife is lined up with the center of the blade. The quick and dirty way to tell if your blade will work if you don't have a micrometer is to put the cutting surface of the teeth of a blade next to the knife. If the teeth are wider than the knife, you are good to go. If the knife is wider than the teeth, then you need to remove the riving knife before using that blade.

2. T-slot miter gauge- no slop in mine. It also comes with a nice fence on the gauge, or at least much nicer than what came with the late '70s/early '80s Craftsman flex-drive contractor saw I had been using before.

3. You can adjust the fence to be parallel to the blade by adjusting the two set screws on the front of the fence bracket (part that goes over the front fence rail.) My rails were near perfectly parallel to the blade as I meticulously aligned them with a big long straightedge and level to get them square and level when I put the rails on the saw. So I didn't need to adjust the fence very much at all.

4. The fit and finish on my Chinese made saw is excellent. The adjustments for the blade height and angle work very nicely although they will wander after a few cuts if you don't turn the center cap to lock them in. This is considerably different from the old Craftman contractor saw which used high friction bushings to hold the adjustments steady.

5. There is no bang on start-up. Just a soft click from the magnetic switch, a split-second hum from the motor as it spins up and then the whistle of the blade teeth cutting through the air. The 3 hp Leeson is rated at 12.8 FLA and comes with a 14 ga cord but has a 6-20 plug attached.

6. I haven't cut any thick hardwoods yet but the 3 hp saw could barely even tell when I resawed a 4x4 down to 3x3 for the legs of a project using a 40T full kerf blade. There was no way I could do that on the old 1 hp contractor saw as somebody else had tried to do some resawing on that saw before with I believe a 24T blade and all it did was scorch the wood and trip the 20 amp/120 V breaker repeatedly. I guess the 5 hp 10" saws are for folks who want to resaw stuff like maple on their tablesaws.

[Mark W Pugh]

So, I keep reading that the fences that comes on the Grizzly's are not good. So, I may buy the G1023RL, what fence should I buy for it? Again, just a hobbyist, but I still want something that I don't have to adjust every cut. Inputs?

[David Helm]

So, I keep reading that the fences that comes on the Grizzly's are not good. So, I may buy the G1023RL, what fence should I buy for it? Again, just a hobbyist, but I still want something that I don't have to adjust every cut. Inputs?

Not necessarily so. The fence that came with my 1023 is dead on and works very well.

[Mark W Pugh]

Not necessarily so. The fence that came with my 1023 is dead on and works very well.

Thanks David. I believe it's usually the, "I love this product, and it's the only one that works", mentality

[Cary Falk]

My only issue with the Shop Fox Classic was the cursor. Once I replaced that the fence was great.

[Mark W Pugh]

OK, hopefully will order the G1023RLX. Questions?

1) So, the fence, on the 1023, has the adjustment screws to make the fence square to the table? The comments below seem to refer to the 690/691. I'm not getting "you can add a bolt at the end of the...". It seems there is no included adjustment to accomplish this.

2) Any other problems/considerations I need to be made aware of?

3) Can I set a delivery window with Grizzly?

Thanks, trying to make the 10% off buy. I'm on the road, way on the road and trying to get my stuff together on this.

Thanks!!


Mark,
That was my thread. The fence is easily adjustable to be parallel to the blade. What is being referred to are the 2 teflon set screws on each side of the front of the fence that ride the rail. These are used to make the face of the fence square to the table. My old T2 had them:
253115

THe fence on the G0690/691 has them:
http://cdn0.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg500/g/g0690_det3.jpg


It is a non issue if you put the front rail on parallel to the table top. You can tweek it a little by putting in one bolt on the end of the fence and pushing up or pulling down the far end of the fence. The fence has pads under it that ride the top of the table . I have thought about buying some teflon plugs from ACE and tap my own holes and put some in but I haven't needed to. I hope that clears it up. I still love my G1023RL so if you have any questions, let me know in this thread or by pm.
Cary

[Cary Falk]

The fence on the G1023RL lacks the set screws listed as a and b in the first picture. These are used to make the fence faces perpendicular to the table.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/t2.jpg
The set screws noted in the second picture of the fence that comes with the G1023RL makes the fence parallel with teh blade and miter slot.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/sfcf1_zps53face76.jpg
If you tighten the bolt in the rail circled in red on the left hand side of the picture below and loosen all of the rest of them, you can adjust the fence perpendicular to the table(as noted by the red right triangle) by moving the rail up or down as indicated by the arrows on the right hand side of the picture
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/sfcf2_zpsa3c8dbfb.jpg

If you live in a residential area you will want lift gate service. The drivers is only obligated to bring it to the back of the truck if you don't.. The trucking company will usually call you to set up a time to deliver it once they receive it.

If you want to know more about the fence that comes with the 1023RL read about it here.
http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/w2005_m.pdf

[Mark W Pugh]

Perfect, thanks.

[keith micinski]

Cary, that was one of the most thorough explanations I have ever seen, good job.

[Jim O'Dell]

Great job as a matter of fact. As stated above, I have the 691 and couldn't be more pleased. I do have an issue with the factory fence, or more specifically, the fence faces. The screws that attach the face to the fence distorts the face some in those spots. I spent about an hour early on with tape and helped some, but there is another thread here talking about replacing the faces on a Saw Stop fence with extruded aluminum...sounds like it may help the issue I'm having, and make it more versatile to boot. But even with it's face problems, the fence on the 690/1 is a very adequate fence and locks down very well. Jim.

[Rick Moyer]

Highjack alert! Hey Cary, great explanation. Can you tell me how to insert the triangle and arrows like you did in that picture?

[Cary Falk]

Highjack alert! Hey Cary, great explanation. Can you tell me how to insert the triangle and arrows like you did in that picture?
Rick,
I opened the picture in paint. The arrows, triangle, and circles are all standard objects you can draw from the tool bar.
Cary

[Mark W Pugh]

One of the options, when ordering, is to pay for the gate lift truck delivery. Did anyone purchase this or did you all just work it out with the delivery company? Last piece of the puzzle before I pull the pin on my purchase.

[Phillip Gregory]

Great job as a matter of fact. As stated above, I have the 691 and couldn't be more pleased. I do have an issue with the factory fence, or more specifically, the fence faces. The screws that attach the face to the fence distorts the face some in those spots. I spent about an hour early on with tape and helped some, but there is another thread here talking about replacing the faces on a Saw Stop fence with extruded aluminum...sounds like it may help the issue I'm having, and make it more versatile to boot. But even with it's face problems, the fence on the 690/1 is a very adequate fence and locks down very well. Jim.

The polymer face plate on my Shop Fox W1820 fence was ever so slightly warped but only in the back ~12" or so. The mfr apparently knew this and put a short piece of masking tape on the underneath of the part of the face plate where it was torqued in to shim it out. It needed another piece of tape on top of the first to completely get it to be square along the length. It has remained square and true ever since I shimmed it.

[Jim Tabor]

I bought a Grizzzly table saw and band saw for my son in upstate NY and included lift gate service. He said it was well worth it. The driver lowered the boxes to the ground and used his two wheeler to take them down the driveway to my sons shop. My son was very pleased with his presents and also the delivery service. (My paying for it all may have had something to do with it also.)

[Jim O'Dell]

Definitely order the lift gate service when you order from Grizzly. Some freight companies may not offer it. You don't want that one to be selected to transport your unit, then not be able to get lift gate service once it is ready to deliver. It was a 35.00 option for me 2 years ago. Doubt that the 10% special savings Grizzly has offered us works on the freight amount, but it will be saving you a bunch on the saw, it's a good place to spend a little bit of it. Jim.

[Mark W Pugh]

Thanks for all the responses/info. Just ordered the G1023RLX!

[Jim O'Dell]

You will enjoy it! Even though I have the 691, they are both good saws. It will serve you well. Jim.

[Cary Falk]

Thanks for all the responses/info. Just ordered the G1023RLX!

You know the rules. No pictures, didn't happen.

[Shaddy Dedmore]

My only issue with the Shop Fox Classic was the cursor. Once I replaced that the fence was great.

I hate the cursor! Do I replace it from buying something from grizzly, or elsewhere?

[Cary Falk]

I hate the cursor! Do I replace it from buying something from grizzly, or elsewhere?
I hear the one for the old Beisemeyer works. I heard it was only $2 or $3, but the shipping would tripple the price. I don't know if the one off the new Beisemeyer works. I made my own with 1/4 plexiglass and Alinimum.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/DSC_0077-1.jpg
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/DSC_0076-1.jpg

[Scott Reed]

Don't know if I already mentioned this in this thread, but I ordered the 1023RLW. Should have it this week. I plan to shift the rails over to get 36" rip capacity. I thought about getting the RLW for the 52" rip capacity, I have the room for it, but I don't think I really need it. I don't like to cut large pieces of sheet goods on a table saw, I prefer to use the circular saw with edge guide to at least get it close to the dimensions I need and then get it exact on the TS. I think it's much easier and safer to do it this way. I considered the 690 for the 30" capacity but in the end I beleive the 1023 is a slightly better saw.

[Shaddy Dedmore]

254745 I took Cary's advice and just made my own out of acrylic. I might make the line a little larger/darker. but it's good for now. The original cursor line was about 3/8" away from the tape, I got too much parallax to get very accurate results. I made my line on the bottom of the piece, and it's only about 1/8" or less from the tape. it's going to be way more repeatable.