How would you finish this shop cabinet

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Hi All, This is a shop storage cabinet I made from HD sandply. It's about 25Wx 48H. I'll probably hang this on a wall but I was wondering how you'd finish it? What kind of door would you put on? I was thinking of a frame/panel door with some kind of 1/4 ply. Or maybe just a piece of 1/2" MDF. What kind of door would you use and what hinges? I'm tired of the dust getting on everything. :)

[Bob Winkler]

I'd use full overlay Euro hinges. For shop stuff, I uaually make a cheap panel door using 4/4 pine or doug fir with a groove to hold 1/8" beadboard paneling. It's not furnture quality, but it's plenty strong and especially light. Door frame can be T&G, biscuited, or pocket screwed. Lately I've been using pocket screws a lot because of ease of measurement and no clamping required for glue to set.

For me, finish would be soaked in witches brew.

Bob

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Thanks Bob, I have some 1/4" ply around so I'll go that route. I'm not so sure about the Euro hinges; I've never done those before. Thanks again.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

I would make a simple frame and panel door. It doesn't take very long and will really add to the cabinet. It will make it look much better than a peice of MDF would.

[Jim Becker]

I would make a simple frame and panel door. It doesn't take very long and will really add to the cabinet. It will make it look much better than a peice of MDF would.

Agreed. Not only will this be aesthetically nicer, but it also is one more opportunity to use a shop project for further skill building. And depending on where you are going to hang it, two doors may be better than one since the cabinet is 25" wide...remember, you need to be able to accomodate the door swing!

[Alan Tolchinsky]

with stuff I had around. I had some 1/4 hardwood ply and 3/4 hardwood ply which I used for the frame. It looks pretty good but is it weird to use ply for door frames? I wouldn't use it for something nice but for the shop... I wound up using some loose tenons to join it. It seems pretty flat but one stile is bowed a bit so maybe I'll use that for the hinge side. Whadaya think?

[Jim Becker]

Using plywood for your frame and panel is perfectly acceptable by me...the techniques are the same and that's what I meant relative to skill building. Will the edges look as great as solid stock? No. But the construction method is much better for doors than a flat slab and "should" stay flat more easily, too. Yes, put the bow on the hinge side. But you'll also find that Euro hinges are easier to compensate for things like that, too...so much more adjustable. (And this coming from someone who only uses them in the shop...personal style preference)

[Mike Deschler]

Alan:

I'm also at this time working on some shop cabinets. I am using 3/4" ply for the carcases and use a 3/4 x2 frame pocket screwed to the cases. For doors, I'm using Rail and Stile construction with some thinner (7/32) birch ply panels since I can't find any 1/4" ply anymore. To get around that problem, I bought a MLCS R&S bit with a thinner cutter for this kind of plywood. The door frames are made from 3/4 x 2 1/4 pine. I am painting my cabinets but in your case, I would simply shellac them with a couple of coats and hang them.

Opps, almost forgot, I am using some cheap 1/2" overlay hinges I picked up at the borg for about a dollar each, they seem to work ok.

[JayStPeter]

Alan,

I would put a frame and panel door on it.

I have left the cabinets in my shop unfinished. They will stay that way until I get an HVLP rig. They will then be used to learn to spray.

Jay

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Alan,

I would put a frame and panel door on it.

I have left the cabinets in my shop unfinished. They will stay that way until I get an HVLP rig. They will then be used to learn to spray.

Jay

Jay, If you leave them unfinished won't they get a lot of dirt in the wood and affect the finish?

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Alan:

I'm also at this time working on some shop cabinets. I am using 3/4" ply for the carcases and use a 3/4 x2 frame pocket screwed to the cases. For doors, I'm using Rail and Stile construction with some thinner (7/32) birch ply panels since I can't find any 1/4" ply anymore. To get around that problem, I bought a MLCS R&S bit with a thinner cutter for this kind of plywood. The door frames are made from 3/4 x 2 1/4 pine. I am painting my cabinets but in your case, I would simply shellac them with a couple of coats and hang them.

Opps, almost forgot, I am using some cheap 1/2" overlay hinges I picked up at the borg for about a dollar each, they seem to work ok.


Mike, Thanks for responding. I have some 1/2" overlay hinges also but thought they would leave 1/4" of the side showing on the hinge side. Don't you need full overlay hinges to cover the 3/4" sides of the case? Alan

[JayStPeter]

Jay, If you leave them unfinished won't they get a lot of dirt in the wood and affect the finish?

Not to mention all the dings and dents ...

I'll give them a once over with 220 grit and wipe 'em down.

Jay