Embarking on a new project and seeking advice

[James Mittlefehldt]

Having just finished the Yellow Poplar, closet organizer for TLOML, I thought to go back to setting up my shop, WRONG.

I am now embarked upon making the first of what she hopes will be eventually three screen doors. I decided, for whatever reason, to use plain sawn White Oak. I also concocted this idea, to use a mitred mortise and tenon joint for the corners to eliminate exposed end grain. So I have a couple of questions for those more experienced than I, which is probably most of you.

1) Is the idea of the mitred mortise and tenon joint a bit over the top, as I am using White Oak. and would a normal mortise and tenon joint suffice with a good finishing material?

2) On the closet organizer thingy, I noticed that on some of the mortise and tenon joints, I ended up with some of the pieces being slightly off location, that is over the edge on one side and inside the edge on the other. I attributed this to perhaps not paying close enough attention to fitting the tenon or perhaps cutting to close to the line, So what did I do wrong? I should add that most people wouldn't even notice once I planed the excess on the over side, though it stands out like a sore thumb when I look at it.

3) Lastly bearing in mind I am using White Oak, what finish should I use. The first door, is in a heavily shaded, in summer, northern exposure, so will never see any UV exposure, or at most minimal exposure?

I look forward to your answers, and thank you for reading.

[Alan Turner]

White oak will be a good choice, but for door building, you need really straight grain wood. I would mill up the stiles, and let them rest a bit to be sure that they will stay flat after joining. If not, you may be able to use them for the rails as you mill up some more for the stiles. Experience speaking, here.

As to the joinery, I would use M&T only, and not the miter. I think a door should look like a door, and the butt joint at the M&T shoulder is what the eye expects.

You will need a good spar varnish for the ultimate finish. The finish needs to be able to move with the door.

Good luck. I like building doors.

[Tim Sproul]

I'd agree with Alan - mortise and tenon. If you insist on the miters, I'd probably opt for biscuits :eek:.....

It is really important to heed Alan's advice on straight grained wood (experience speaking here too!).

When hand cutting a 4-shoulder mortise and tenon, I normally have the mortise a bit longer than the tenon is wide...or the tenon a bit more narrow than the mortise is long (just a touch...perhaps 1/16 slop total). The shoulders provide resistance to racking and the wide cheeks of the tenon mating with the long mortise faces are the important glue surfaces. The ends of the mortise are end grain and hence provide little glue strength so missing that glue area won't affect joint strength nor joint longevity.

Having made white oak planter boxes - use clear paint. Seriously. Clear Paint. We're not allowed to link - go to woodnet and search for "clear paint".

In short, it is neutral base (or number 5 or 4, depending on brand). Ask for an oil alkyld neutral base paint with NO TINT. It looks like baby poop and you'll still need to stir before using. Put it on and when it dries, it will make oak look a lot like it has been oiled with BLO. You can stain or dye or shellac prior to the clear paint...but clear paint out does spar varnish any day. Take normal finishing steps for oil-based paint or oil-based poly. Thin a bit with MS and brush on. You can also thin quite a bit and wipe on.

[James Mittlefehldt]

Thanks for the input Tim and Allan I was having second thoughts about the mitred mortise and tenon anyway, it would be difficult to say the least. The wood was finished four sides by my friendly purveyor of wood, but it came out of a storage area that was much the same as my workshop, and that was over a week ago so tomorrow I will check it for warping and such, and then maybe start doing some layout.

I suspect though I will have to sharpen a few tools first to deal with the Oak, you should have heard his saw and planer when he was milling the stuff sounded like it was working pretty hard.

As to the clear paint I will check my local suppliers and see if they have it. LV has a finish called Deft and one variety called Marine Teakwood finish I assume that would be suitable, and the Lee Valley store is not that far away, so a good excuse to go and drool a bit in Leonard Lee's playground. However if you know anything about that particular brand of finish I would appreciate your input on that also.

Once again thanks very much you were a big help. Personally I am not that big on doors though I have only made one, a screen door as well for my old house, I much prefer doing chests and cabinets and workbenches, those are really neat. Of course how many workbenches does one need.

[Tim Sproul]

As to the clear paint I will check my local suppliers and see if they have it.

You cannot ask for "clear paint." 99,999 out of 10,000 paint dealers will look at you like you're crazy. You want oil alkyld paint. Neutral base with no tint.

Ask for that.