Table Saw Arbor Size Benefits

[Hank Hill]

Let's say all worlds are equal and you can purchase the table saw of your dreams that can take up to a 12" blade and has an arbor long enough to support typical dado blades. If the price point were the same, would you take a 5/8" arbor over a more standard 1" arbor?

Obviously it's easier to find a 12" blade with a 1" bore but when it comes to the world of dadoes, choices become quite a bit more expensive, especially if you've already got a wide set of 10" blades with 5/8" bores. One might argue that a 1" bore will open up th doors to higher end commercial choices as well over a 5/8" bore. However, you give up the option to run smaller, specialty blades and will ultimately pay more for every blade purchase.

Obviously, there is no right answer but would like to hear what you guys think.

[David Kumm]

dados are why I like the larger arbor. Lots more strength spinning all that mass. I think that is even valid when cutting thick stock. I just get dados bored out. 5/8 is not a lot. Dave

[Jeff Duncan]

Well of course the real solution is having 2 table saws:D

Limited to one saw, I think I'd run with the 1" arbor as boring out a blade is fairly inexpensive.

good luck,
JeffD

[Stephen Cherry]

A 1" or 30mm saw will have larger everythinge else to back it up. Plus, good blades are available in any size online.

[Rod Sheridan]

Mine has a 30mm arbour, don't Americans always believe that bigger is better????:D:D

Any tooling you buy can be purchased in any bore, I have a 6" dado set with 30mm bore and 2 od.

[Hank Hill]

It's all just a matter of what you're willing to pay right? I just wanted to poke and see if there was some obvious reason why I shouldn't get a 1" arbor model that I haven't thought of thus far. Thanks all.

[Erik Loza]

dados are why I like the larger arbor. Lots more strength spinning all that mass. I think that is even valid when cutting thick stock. I just get dados bored out. 5/8 is not a lot. Dave

I agree with Dave but that being said, I have a lot of production sliding panel saws in shops, that have 5/8" arbors. It really all depends on the "iceberg that's under the surface". For example, I would rather have a 5/8" arbor with a shoulder and clamping nut the size of an ashtray than an a 1.0" arbor and just a regular Acme nut, if that makes any sense. The arbor is less important than the size/diameter/mass of the bearing shaft and clamping hardware, IMO.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[David Kumm]

I agree with Dave but that being said, I have a lot of production sliding panel saws in shops, that have 5/8" arbors. It really all depends on the "iceberg that's under the surface". For example, I would rather have a 5/8" arbor with a shoulder and clamping nut the size of an ashtray than an a 1.0" arbor and just a regular Acme nut, if that makes any sense. The arbor is less important than the size/diameter/mass of the bearing shaft and clamping hardware, IMO.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

You are correct. I've seen 1" arbors with a taper into a 5/8 thread so the arbor alone doesn't insure additional strength. They usually do come with a more massive assembly and although MM uses the 5/8 for some US market saws their assembly is likely engineered for the 30mm euro market and turned down. Dave

[Erik Loza]

You are correct. I've seen 1" arbors with a taper into a 5/8 thread so the arbor alone doesn't insure additional strength. They usually do come with a more massive assembly and although MM uses the 5/8 for some US market saws their assembly is likely engineered for the 30mm euro market and turned down. Dave

Ya, exactly. I suspect other mfrs use the 30mm+2-pin arrangement across the board in order to save cost (as opposed to having to source out two or three different arbor diameters for the production line...), since that is only really needed on braking motors and those are "not" like 75% of the saws out there.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[David Kumm]

My Knapp has an electronic brake but not the two pins. It stops as fast as I set the brake. I will add that I added a coiled cord on off on my 78" slider as the table lock was not accessible when loaded and I found the shorter table tended to roll the ply into the spinning blade when I used 60x60 BB. I do think the chance of the cord being sliced is less than having the blade nick the edge of the ply. An aftermarket remote would be kind of neat though. Dave

[Erik Loza]

If I were to guess on your Knapp, I would suspect that the motor brake was designed for the shaper rather than the saw (assuming the brake is handled on the Star-Delta board...) and that maybe "LT" spec'ed out a standard arbor the US market.

Agreed on the cord. The box-and-bungee setup I'm sure is perfectly safe.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[David Kumm]

If I were to guess on your Knapp, I would suspect that the motor brake was designed for the shaper rather than the saw (assuming the brake is handled on the Star-Delta board...) and that maybe "LT" spec'ed out a standard arbor the US market.

Agreed on the cord. The box-and-bungee setup I'm sure is perfectly safe.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA
Mine never went through LT. It was bought directly from EU as one of the last ones made and then I bought while still in crate. I would not have paid what LT was asking. Knapp are well built but did not warrant the big upcharge here. Mine is spec'd with the 30mm arbor. Dave

[Erik Loza]

Wow, that is interesting.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[David Kumm]

Wow, that is interesting.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA
As close to new as I generally buy. Don't get me started on how Knapp was handled here. Dave