Stabilizing compound for blanks

[Dave Beauchesne]

I have a friend who picked up several dry Western Soft Maple spalted bowl blanks ( 12'' diameter ) and wishes to slice them
up for small panels - not for turning.

They are quite light - gone too far in the spalting process to turn -

The question is - he asked me if I knew there was anything that he could soak them in to get them meaty enough for what he desires.

My first response was CA glue - when I turn and have a punky spot, slathering in CA glue seems to work fine, but this is a larger project. I have heard about PENTACRYL ( LV # 56K08.01 ) but the LN site specifies green wood use.

Anything else out there that may work??

Dave B

[Dan Hintz]

The issue with solvent-based stuff like Pentacryl is the reduced fiber soak once the solvent evaporates... maybe not an issue for your buddy, but if it is, he should be looking at something like Resinol 90C (or similar). Once the blank has been saturated (usually via vacuum), cook at 200F for a couple of hours and it'll be solid as a rock.

[Richard Coers]

Cactus Juice Wood Stabilizer is fantastic stuff. You need the liquid material and catalyst, vacuum pump, chamber, and toaster oven to cure. I don't have this system, but watched it demoed at the Midwest Penturners Gathering.
http://www.turntex.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&category_id=144&product_id=2132&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=121

Or, send it out to be stabilized. $12.50 a pound (stabilizing liquid weight)
http://rrpwhite.com/wood-stabilizing/
I've used this service and was really impressed with the results.

[Bob Hamilton]

Hi:
Pentacryl is simply intended to reduce warping and checking as the wood dries, not to "firm up" punky wood to allow turning it, I believe. There is a product called Polyall 2000 that is a two part, VERY thin polyurethane liquid that soaks in a fair distance even in solid wood and hardens. http://www.polyall.com/ There are also products that usually come in a kit that are epoxy based for repairing things like rotted wood window and door frames or porch posts. They usually have a very thin formula that is supposed to soak into rotted wood and harden it up as well as a putty type to replace wood that is actually missing. I have never tried any of the epoxy types but I have used Polyall 2000 and it _may_ work for that kind of thing.

Here is a link to one of the epoxy based kits so you can compare: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20075&cat=1,190,42997

Good Luck!
Bob

[mark ravensdale]

The people that make pentacryl also make another product that does the job you need, cannot remember its exact name but think its something like polycryl, I have some in my workshop but it's freezing out and snowing sorry!!!

[James Combs]

[QUOTE=Richard Coers;2049089]Cactus Juice Wood Stabilizer is fantastic stuff. You need the liquid material and catalyst, vacuum pump, chamber, and toaster oven to cure. I don't have this system, but watched it demoed at the Midwest Penturners Gathering.
http://www.turntex.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&category_id=144&product_id=2132&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=121

+1 on using Cactus Juice. I use it a lot. However, generally it comes per-catalized so there is no catalyst required although there may be a catalyst required for very large amounts. In either case the catalyst is inactive until it is heated. It is cured by heating to ~200 degrees F similar to Resinol 90C.

[Scott Lux]

I have used Polycryl from the same folks as Pentacryl. I used it to stabilize an end-grain NE bowl with a punky middle. Overall, I was pleased with the results. I did have some finish issues. I don't know that they were directly related to the Polycryl, but they might well have been. I've not had any issues like that in other pieces.

On the other hand, I probably could have wiped it down with one last coat of polycryl and called it a finish.

[David Walser]

Minwax's High Performance Wood Hardener does exactly what it's name suggests. It is made for repairing water damaged wood trim pieces in bathrooms or around windows. I've used it several times on bowl blanks and similar items. It penetrates fairly deeply -- depending on the wood and the wood's condition -- and cures quickly. It, in essence, converts the wood into a plastic resin, so it will affect the way the wood stains and finishes. Good stuff for the right situation.

It's available at your local hardware store. Here's a link to Minwax's website: http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-hardener

[robert baccus]

Try mixing clear epoxy up and thinning gingerly with acetone. Put both in a black yard bag and play shake & bake. You can turn a roll of toilet paper after this treatment. An old boatyard fiberglass trick. Let harden overnite. The wood looks like new and not discolored or plastic soaked like some other treatments on the inside.

[Jim Burr]

Vaccum systems like the one that Curtis sells are great to about 2" depth, I use mine all the time. You would need a chamber big enough to hold it and then bake it off until the core temp reaches 200*. Minwax hardner is a mix of acetone and polycarbonate that you can make yourself. You would need a way to push the plastic into the wood...once the carrier, in this case acetone evaporates, it's done nothing to stabilize the blank.

[Jamie Donaldson]

I know some turners have used a 50/50 mix of white wood glue (like Elmers) and H2O to saturate punky wood to make it suitable for turning. I call it the Wally mix as he was the first I recall having posted the info. Never had worthwhile results with the Minwax Wood Hardener except the metal can makes a good container for my acetone/lacquer mixture.

[Dave Beauchesne]

Thanks a bunch for the replies so far - I will pass this along -

Personally, I try to stay away from the stuff that is too far gone, but there are times when you have to at least try!

Dave B

[Michael Kellough]

Just a thought...has anyone tried shellac for this?
I've used it to tighten up MDF "end grain" and even exposed drywall edges.