Wolverine grinding jig attachments

[Dick Holt]

I am new to turning. I will be ordering a new Woodcraft grinder soon. I will also get the Wolverine grinding jig . Are there any attachments I should get ? I will be turning pens to start, then "graduate" to spindles and small bowls. I only have a few Benjamin's Best chisels (3 piece pen turning set) to start with. Thanks for your help.

Dick

[Brian Kent]

This was recommended to me also:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2001998/2511/turners-fingernailside-grinding-jig.aspx

Get the first one, not the later model. I use it continually for my bowl and spindle gouges.

[John Keeton]

Brian's link appears to be a knock off of the original Vari-Grind jig, shown here - http://www.amazon.com/Oneway-Manufacturing-2480-Vari-Grind-Attachment/dp/B000CSSIOK

They look identical, so your choice. Brian is correct in that most folks prefer the original version to the newer Vari-Grind 2.

[Scott Hackler]

Brian is correct that for a fingernail grind you will want the jig above. Keep in mind that if you are just doing pens right now, you don't need anything but a spindle gauge with a standard grind. That can be done WITHOUT the above jig. Now once you move past pens and into bowls, the spindle gouge (and it's grind) is dangerous. A standard spindle gouge has a flat tang (where it meets the handle) and the bowl gouge is a solid round tang. For work into bowls, there can be a lot of force against the tang and you dont' EVER want the tang to snap during the hollowing of a bowl (trust me, I know).

The only other thing I highly recommend is a diamond wheel dresser. You will need to "dress" the wheels before you ever touch the steel to it and then every so often to keep the surface flat and clean.

Have fun, be safe.

[Brian Kent]

John is right. I had intended to link to the original vari-grind jig.

I was very glad to receive advice like Scott's before I hurt myself. I had been using the spindle roughing gouge to rough out bowls. Since then I have been using the bowl gouge for bowls - inside and out.

[Rex Guinn]

I think the new ones are updated from the one shown. I took the spring off and changed the clamp screw to nylon so you don't have the spring sliding over your freshly sharpend edge.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

The new ones are updated. You can see the difference if you look at the Varigrind shown on the Craft Supply website (woodturnerscatalog.com) They finally got rid of the spring steel piece and replaced it with a nylon covered bearing that doesn't dull your edge as you withdraw the gouge. They also offer this piece as an upgrade if you've got one of the old ones. It's worth changing if you're still using the older version IMHO.

[Dick Holt]

Thanks for the help. You guys are the best!

Dick

[Jim Laumann]

Jeffery

Who might the "they" be in "They also offer...."? Oneway or Craft Supply or ???

Thanks

Jim

[Jeffrey J Smith]

[QUOTE=Jim Laumann;2049232]Jeffery

Who might the "they" be in "They also offer...."? Oneway or Craft Supply or ???

The upgrade is put out by OneWay - it's in their new catalog and on their website. Craft Supply is where I got it - they offered it at their booth during the Utah Symposium a couple of years ago.

[Jamie Donaldson]

I also received a Woodcraft flyer today that shows their 8" grinder is on sale again for $99, so jump on it now!

[Aric Krueger]

This is all you would need IMHO: - I think everything you see here is sold as a kit at woodcraft (except for the chisel and wooden base of course!)
http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/600/153618.jpg?rand=57190894
Don't bother with the skew attachment; see the thread below.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?196774-Is-the-Wolverine-Skew-Jig-needed

[Paul Saffold]

I'm new to this turning stuff too. What are the notches for on the Vari-Grind?
Thanks, Paul

[Bob Hamilton]

The notches are just a visual reference so you can repeat settings if you change it.

Bob

[Chip Sutherland]

I use the Vari-grind jig and I set my up once and locked the jig down so I don't use the various notches. Now I just vary the distance of the jig/tool from grinding wheels using the sliding arm. I match the tool's nose profile to the grinding wheel to where stone makes contact from the heel of the cutting edge to the tip. I have a light handy to see if there is any gaps between the tool edge and stone. Then I turn it on and follow the profile to sharpen. I learned this from Bill Grumbine in his first video. Otherwise, I would need a setup map to handle all the various geometries of angles, arm distances and gouge profile degrees.

Dick when you get to doing bowls....find a friend, join a club and/or take a class. You will enjoy it more with proper instruction....as well as being a safer turner.

[Aric Krueger]

The notches are just a visual reference so you can repeat settings if you change it.

Bob

If you change it:

The notches will change the way the side wings are ground on a bowl or spindle gouge. Ellsworth's jig has a set angle and length in the stem to reproduce his signature grind profile on a bowl gouge. (Assuming his directions are followed concerning distance and height of the jig's pivot point to the grinding wheel. With the vari-grind jig, this angle is adjustable. Changing this angle of presentation to the grinding wheel will change the angle of the side wings because the angle of the cone being swung through is different. By adjusting the length of the pivot point from the grinding wheel with the 'V' arm, the desired bevel angle at the nose of the gouge is maintained (assuming that height of pivot point and protrusion length of the gouge tip are constant). By changing the jig's stem angle and pivot point distance from the grinding wheel (all other things remaining constant), it is possible to produce two gouges with the same bevel angle at the nose, but differing in side wing profiles.

I hope I'm making sense! :eek: :)

[Dan Masshardt]

I just got a new woodcraft grinder from eBay for less than $75 shipped. There is a seller offering them recently. The one before went for close to $90.

[Paul Saffold]

Yes, that made sense. Thanks.

[Harry Robinette]

The notches on the very grind will adjust how much the angle of the side of the wing is. The further forward the arm goes the straighter the wing will be. And just the opposite the further back the arm is the more the wing is rolled in toward the flute. If you set the sliding long arm at say 7" from the wheel and just change the vari-grind arm you can change the wing angle. I set mine at 2 notches up from all the way forward,I use a 2 1/8"protrusion and 7" from the wheel.That gives me a 60* bowl grind with a wing angle that lets me shear scrap and cut very nicely.I only have to adjust to 6" from the wheel and that gives me a 45* bevel and a small wing on my spindle gouges.
Works for me.

[John Keeton]

Doug Thompson has a nice chart on his website that I have included below. I set my Vari-Grind to this setting, and never touch it. Seems to work for me, but you may differ on your needs. I do, however, extend the tool 2 inches - not 1.75" as Doug suggests.
252802

[Jon Murphy]

If you change it:

The notches will change the way the side wings are ground on a bowl or spindle gouge. Ellsworth's jig has a set angle and length in the stem to reproduce his signature grind profile on a bowl gouge. (Assuming his directions are followed concerning distance and height of the jig's pivot point to the grinding wheel. With the vari-grind jig, this angle is adjustable. Changing this angle of presentation to the grinding wheel will change the angle of the side wings because the angle of the cone being swung through is different. By adjusting the length of the pivot point from the grinding wheel with the 'V' arm, the desired bevel angle at the nose of the gouge is maintained (assuming that height of pivot point and protrusion length of the gouge tip are constant). By changing the jig's stem angle and pivot point distance from the grinding wheel (all other things remaining constant), it is possible to produce two gouges with the same bevel angle at the nose, but differing in side wing profiles.

I hope I'm making sense! :eek: :)

A bit late with my response, I was going through back threads on the VG and Ellsworth. I've printed out your quote to put on the clipboard where I keep my notes for the VG leg angles and other factors for my various grinds - I've been using the VG, along with the Geiger Vertical Solution Plus 4 arm for several years (actually the old VS, then more recently the Plus 4 as Don Geiger was kind enough to sell me only the parts to make the modification to the Plus 4). For those unfamiliar with that product it is a Wolverine style arm and basket with the basket mounted on a vertical column that can be adjusted over about 5" to change the height of the pivot. The Plus 4 adds a 4 position peg in the basket that makes fixed variations in the distance of the pivot from the wheel.

Given all that experience (my gouges range from 25 dg. to 85 dg. tip bevels with various side bevels) why do I offer you my great thanks? Because I've been buffaloed by the geometry and have had to use a lot of trial and error (which way do I go to change what). Your phrase, the "angle of the cone being swung through" is perfect - I now have a picture of the geometry. I have been wracking my brain for years trying to get a picture of the transition from tip bevel to side grind into my head.

[Josh Bowman]

Dick,
Along with the Wolverine you might as an absolute option consider a diamond hone. I kind of did an impulse buy on this Trend brand (I don't feel the brand makes a difference BTW). My point is I very seldom now "jig up" my tools to grind them. I keep this thing close and just give the hollow ground edge a few strokes and I'm off again. So far it's worked well for me. IF you do get one, look for comfort in holding it, I have several others and they seem awkward to hold. Good luck and ask lots of questions, sharpening is a something I feel is somewhat personnel and you can easily buy several expensive systems before landing on the one you like. The Wolverine, I feel is a good choice, but there are others. I suggest getting into a good club and getting members to let you try theirs.
http://www.ptreeusa.com/images/10415_tapered_file_300.jpg

[Steve Peterson]

I just picked up a robo rest and really like it. It allows you to easily set the exact grinding angle for each tool. I already had the Oneway grinding jig, but don't think I will be using it much now that I have the robo rest.

There have been a few reports of the tool from digging in to the grinding wheel when using the long arm of the Oneway wolverine jig. The robo rest avoids this issue. There is a version that works with the wolverine and one that bolts directly to your workbench.

Steve

[Peter Fabricius]

Hi Dick,
All good suggestions above!
Try to avoid setting your gouges in the long arm for sharpening, there is a real risk of getting too low and close to wheel centre where the tool crashes through the stone.
if resources are available buy a CBN wheel from DWay before spending your money on stone wheels, one 180 grit CBN is fantastic for real sharp edges, used with the Wolverine /varigrind jig and you are a winner.
Good luck with your turnings.
Peter F.

[Thom Sturgill]

You guys do realize that this is a 2 year old thread?

[Josh Bowman]

:o
You guys do realize that this is a 2 year old thread? Well that's embarrassing!

[John M. Smith]

Not until you mentioned it Thom. LOL