getting a scroll saw...

[Kevin Guarnotta]

ok, one more new tool question.

I am somewhat interested in getting a scroll saw. I don't need one, but just started making toys for my son, and sometimes a scroll saw looks like it could be handy. I have been trolling craigslist for a while...and basically don't want to bite, unless it is a great deal. Like I said I don't need one.

I've seen some old Rockwell/Delta 24" scroll saws. They look nice and solid. Really simple, and elegantly designed. Less than half the price of a new scroll saw. I just don't know if the cut is a lot nicer with a 'modern' one vs an old one. when I have looked into this saw a little bit, it looks like the blades a little bit different then most machines today.

Tips on trolling for a tool I don't necessarily need ;)

[Michael Moscicki]

The DeWalt DW788 is a great saw for $250 if it comes with the stand and light on Cragislist. It's what I have and is a nice saw.

Other options would be to get a Hegner, RBI, or Excalibur. Make sure you get variable speed with the option for beveled cuts. As far as size, 20" is fine. Lots of people brought a 16" only to find they need more room. 30" might be overkill, but as far as I know only Excalibur makes a 30".

Now for blades, none other than Flying Dutchman Blades.

http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm

[Charles Lent]

You should look for one that uses non-pinned blades and has an upper and lower arm to move the blade and one that moves the blade with as little off vertical movement as possible. Avoid the old saws that use a spring to pull the blade back up. The DeWalt 788 is probably the best saw that you will find used or new for a reasonable price, but there are others that work very well.

Charley

[Kevin Guarnotta]

I've seen the Dewalt 788, and read good reviews, but it is over $500. If I could get it for $250, yeah I'd do it. Where?
As far as variable speed-is this like a pedal switch, or is it something you set on the machine?

Non-pinned blades-is that the new style? How do I know if it takes non-pinned blades, just got to ask the seller? Ie are non-pinned blades a newer style?

[Myk Rian]

I restored a Delta 16". The 24" is a big honkin saw, so if you go that route, make room for it.
Very easy to maintain. One like mine is gettable, in working condition, for under $100.
Uses non-pinned blades.

252562

[Kevin Guarnotta]

this is one I'm looking at for $200252563

[William C Rogers]

Kevin

The one thing I would check is turning the saw on and seeing how much vibration it produces. I initially bought a less than $100 saw and couldn't stand the vibration. I now have the Dewalt 788 and it is a world of difference. I would hold out for a good saw as mentioned by Michael to hit craigslist.

Bill

[Myk Rian]

Nice. Looks ready to go.

[Stan Smith]

Kevin

The one thing I would check is turning the saw on and seeing how much vibration it produces. I initially bought a less than $100 saw and couldn't stand the vibration. I now have the Dewalt 788 and it is a world of difference. I would hold out for a good saw as mentioned by Michael to hit craigslist.

Bill

I can't remember where I saw the stuff, but there are ways to reduce the vibration using rubber boots, sand, etc.. I have an RBI which I bought new. I wish I had gotten the 20". However, this saw has held up for 15 years so far with no problems. The Dewalt came out after I had already bought my RBI or I would have gotten one. Just like any other tool, you might think you can get by with a cheapie because you won't use it that often. Later on you regret your decision and wish you have sprung for the better/bigger tool....Just saying....

Stan

[Mike Henderson]

I have a Hawk RBI and have used a number of other scroll saws. The DeWalt is a very good scroll saw.

The things you want in a scroll saw are:
1. Variable speed. And electronic variable speed and not a bunch of pulleys. With variable speed, not only can you match the speed to your work, but you can usually find an acceptable speed that minimizes vibration.
2. A throat that's appropriate to your work. If you're going to do small work, you can find saws which are inexpensive. Saws with deep throats are more expensive.
3. Takes pinless blades.
4. Can install blades without a tool. You'll break a lot of blades so easy blade change is important.
5. Up front blade tensioning - preferably a flip lever. A convenience issue.
6. Flexible dust blower. You need to be able to see the line so the dust blower is important. Flexibility is good so you can adjust it to keep it out of your way.

The old scroll saws used a spring at the top of the blade to pull the blade upward after the downward stroke. Tensioning the blade is done by adjusting the spring. The problem with that approach is that the tension on the blade changes over the stroke, possibly leading to shorter blade life. You'll notice that no modern scroll saws use this technique any more.

However, this does not mean that an older scroll saw is a bad deal. If it has the features you want, or if you're willing to put up with what it's missing, you can usually purchase an older scroll saw for less money than a modern scroll saw. You do have to be careful that the saw is functioning properly, however, or be willing to overhaul one in not great shape.

Personally, I'd recommend purchasing a newer scroll saw. Around here, they come up on Craigslist often. Scroll saws are a tool that not many woodworkers are looking for so they often sell for a significant discount from new. I often see something like, "I bought this scroll saw for my wife and she used it a few time, then decided scroll sawing was not for her." Or "I bought this scroll saw but found I never really used it." So they just want to get rid of it.

Mike

[Stan Smith]

Good comments, Mike. They reminded me that I had changed the dust blower tube to add a jointed flex pipe on the end. The original tube was setup to blow dust on me. I'm sure they've changed that by now though. Also a foot switch is a must. For me an adjustable maginfier light is also a must. I agree that Flying Dutchman are the best blades. Blade quality makes a big difference -- especially for hardwoods. I get mine at www.mikeswoodshop.com (Not a relation or business interest of mine). FWIW

Stan

[Rich Purdum]

I have one of the old Delta machines and I frankly like it. It weights a ton and does not vibrate much at all. Check out OWWM.org for what other "old arn" folks think about them. They are built like the proverbial brick (you know what) house.

[Cary Falk]

Kevin,
I restored one of those and like it. My only other experience with one was a Craftsman jackhammer. I don't recall the model number.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/DSC_0525.jpg

[Peter Kuhlman]

If just making single pieces, most of the mid level saws will work well. The differences in scroll saws becomes much more apparent if doing stack cutting to get multiples of a pattern. I had a Dewalt - the Canadian version - and it was virtually worthless for that as the top and bottom pieces were radically different due to the way the blade oscillates. I have a 22" Hegner now and it is much better. The Eclipse is by far the best saw as it is a true vertical cut but it is a tad pricey!!

[Jim Finn]

I once had a DeWalt and it is a smooth runner and easy to change blades. It kept breaking and frinally fell apart after 20 months. I bought a new Hegner in 2008 and it is still running well. I then bought a 25 year old Hegner that also still runs well. I then could not turn down a 25 year old Jet scroll saw (16") I found on Creig's list for $15. It also runs well. Pinned blades are what you want to avoid. None of my saws are variable speed. One less thing to go wrong. Some folks find this important but I have no problem with the single speed saws. On one of my Hegners , I can move the belt to change the speed but I leave it at a rather fast speed and never change it. I also like Flying Dutchman blades.

[Stan Smith]

If all you're going to cut is pine, then you don't need a variable speed. I cut a lot of different kinds of hardwood so being able to slow the speed is very necessary.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I own a Excaliber 21". It works well. In as much as my wife wanted to use it, I got it primarily because the cutting head tilts and table remains flat when doing angled cuts. I felt this would be safer and easier for my wife to operate.

[Kevin Guarnotta]

I think I'll be cutting more than just pine - so I guess I want to look for variable speed.

It sounds like the Dewalt is getting great reviews, I'll just keep my eye on craigslist for one...woodcraft has them on sale for $540, with stand and light. I think I'd rather attach this to a bench. What are the pros and cons of attaching to a bench?

[Myk Rian]

Kevin;
That saw you pictured is a VS model. Look at the picture, and you will see the speed crank sticking out the front.
If it were me, I would seriously consider that Delta saw. No sense spending a ton of money on a new one, especially if you're not sure you'll use it that much.
Don't let the detractors around here dissuade you. (And there sure are enough of them)
Offer $150 and see what happens.

[Jamie Lynch]

I started out with single speed delta 16". It go me by for about a year mounted to the bench. The Dewalt was next and i had it on a stand. Aside from being a much better saw, I liked the stand a lot better than just setting the saw on the bench. The work angle is a nice little feature. Also using a stand allowed m to make a foot pedal to lift the head fro through cuts.

[Stew Hagerty]

OK, I'll be different.

I have a new model and I absolutely love it. It's a Shop Fox W1713. For $167 I think it's a bargain.

http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-W1713-16-Inch-Variable/dp/B001R23T08/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1359660772&sr=8-1&keywords=shop+fox+scroll+saw