PDA

View Full Version : Does a crooked jointer fence matter?



Wade Lippman
01-24-2013, 6:22 PM
I just got a Grizzly 0490X jointer.
The fence is square (well, 89.9 in some places and 90.0 in others, but that is pretty square...) but on one side it is 1/8" above the table, on the other side 3/8".
I can't see why that would matter, but wanted to check if I am over looking anything.

George Bokros
01-24-2013, 6:30 PM
Would not be acceptable to me.

Joe Angrisani
01-24-2013, 6:31 PM
1/4" difference? Something's katywhampus.

Did you do the initial assembly, or did you buy it used?

How far is the infeed table below the outfeed table when you see 1/4" difference?

Cary Falk
01-24-2013, 6:32 PM
It shouldn't matter but you should be able to adjust it out. There is a block that bolts onto the back of the jointer that the fence slides on. Sounds like it needs to be loosened and rotated a little bit.

Edit to add: it's called the fence carriage. Fig 13 page 18 of the manual. If you don't have the manual you can download for the Grizzly site.

Jeff Duncan
01-24-2013, 7:13 PM
A pic would help.....from your description it sounds like the infeed to fence is lower than the outfeed to fence.....which is normal, yours may just be a little more off than usual. When you lower the infeed table the fence stays in place so the gap grows;) At then end of the day if it's simply the height from the table to the fence that's off it has no affect on the work your doing.

JeffD

Myk Rian
01-24-2013, 7:30 PM
89.9º to 90º is nothing. This is woodworking.
Set the outfeed end square with the table, and don't worry about the infeed.

Wade Lippman
01-24-2013, 7:37 PM
Two steps forward, one step back.
The 1/4" difference was with the infeed down aways. I hadn't noticed that, but when I raised it, it hit the fence.
I loosened the fence carriage pushed the high end down and tightened them. Better. Not perfect but better.
I had to resquare the fence, and this time it came out more even. Go figure.

But, when I try to adjust the scale pointer to zero (figure 72 page 42), nothing happens. The position is fixed by a roll pin, so loosening the screw does nothing. What am I doing wrong.

Thanks for the help.

Myk Rian
01-24-2013, 7:42 PM
Don't trust the scale, ever.
Use a machinists square for setups.

glenn bradley
01-24-2013, 8:35 PM
Two steps forward, one step back.
The 1/4" difference was with the infeed down aways. I hadn't noticed that, but when I raised it, it hit the fence.
I loosened the fence carriage pushed the high end down and tightened them. Better. Not perfect but better.
I had to resquare the fence, and this time it came out more even. Go figure.

But, when I try to adjust the scale pointer to zero (figure 72 page 42), nothing happens. The position is fixed by a roll pin, so loosening the screw does nothing. What am I doing wrong.

Thanks for the help.

The fence, as you have noticed, when loose can be move about quite a bit. Whenever I adjust the fence, including sliding the carriage forward and back, I check it at the infeed and the outfeed and get to 90* in each spot. The difference between 90* and 89.9* on your gauge can be fixed or fouled with a smack of the hand. I'm pretty fussy but, I would be perfectly comfortable working with those settings.

As mentioned, the pointer for depth is a basic reference and not something to be used for measuring adjustments. Therefor it has a general factory position that is relatively fixed. If I am hogging off about 1/8" at a time and I want to switch to about 1/16", the scale can help visualize that. It is about as accurate as a pointer/scale on a lunchbox planer, not something to use for final dimensions. Remember, a jointer makes things flat, it is not a planer.

Once you have a flat reference surface(s), your planer makes the other side parallel to the jointed face and your tablesaw rips to final width . . . or thereabouts depending on your affinity for hand planes and such ;-). The only time I worry about thickness when I am jointing is if I am so short on material that I can't spare one more pass (BTDT). Calipers are your friend. There is a caliper stuck to the switch post of mine with a magnet. I glued a magnet to a carpenters pencil and stick it to the switch post as well. Handy for making squiggles to observe progress.

scott spencer
01-24-2013, 9:13 PM
Since the outfeed table is higher than the infeed table, it's plausible that the fence would be offset too.

Matt Day
01-24-2013, 9:18 PM
I've read your original post about 4 times and I'm not quite visualizing it - a picture would really help.

Have you aligned the tables yet? I have the Shop Fox version of your jointer and just went through adjusting the beds to be coplanar and setting knives. Feel free to PM me with any questions.

Jim Foster
01-24-2013, 9:57 PM
If the fence is flat and you can get it perpendicular to the table, I think your good to go.