Is this plane worth tuning?

[John Donofrio]

Hi all,

Last year my neighbor moved to Texas and asked me to pilfer through her husband's tool box. He passed away few years prior and she was trimming down what had to move. He wasn't a woodworker, just a handyman around the house.

I found this:
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Everything looks original to it but I don't think it's very old due to the chrome/zinc (not sure) plated parts on it.

It feels solid, in fact it's actually heavier than the Stanley #4C I have (maybe due the missing metal on the sole of the Stanley?). The blade appears to be of similar thickness but the chip breaker seems to be a bit less stout. On the left outside near the sole it reads: "Millers Falls No 900B". The sole appears to be in relatively good shape and I see no cracks. I'm sure it could use a good flattening though.

Is it worth putting the time and effort into getting this thing up and running? It seems like a solid plane to me so I would think it's worth it but I thought I'd ask the more knowledgeable folks here.

Thanks.

[steven c newman]

There may have been a decal on the lever cap? One with a red "V", as in Value Line. These were VERY good planes. This is a Millers Falls that is the same as a Stanley #4 at the time it was made. I just won a #8 (stanley#3 size) and intend to make it a user. Value line planes were a second level type of plane, more of the Stanley Handyman type. They are still quite good planes.

Fix it up, sharpen it up, put it back to work!

[Bill Houghton]

You've got what Millers Falls considered an economy plane, sold under the Mohawk-Shelburne name. See http://oldtoolheaven.com/bench/economyplanes.htm . However, many planes considered "economy line" tools back in the 30s are better than many modern offerings. I wouldn't spend hours fine-tuning it right yet. Hold a straightedge on the sole, along its length, across it, and diagonally, and see if it's pretty flat. If so, put a little oil on the operating mechanisms (like a drop), sharpen the iron, and see how it works. If the basic structure is OK - if the frog is soundly attached to the body and fairly flat, if the mechanisms work well - you can always get an aftermarket iron and chipbreaker if the originals turn out to be low in quality.

[steven c newman]

They are not a bad little plane.252188252189252190252191252192This is what you'll find "under the hood" on one of these.

[Jake Helmboldt]

I have a similar Millers Falls that I use for my construction plane. Sharpen the iron and use it for carpentry. Mine came in handy to take the crown out of some joists when building my deck and other similar work where I'd never use my LN or finely fettled Bailey.

[Greg Wease]

The #9 that Stephen shows is significantly better than the #900 in John's original question. Their single numbers (like #9) was top of the line with the 2-piece lever cap. Drop down a notch to the two-digit series (#90) and another notch to the #900. The 900 casting is pretty rough.

[Jim Koepke]

Many of the economy planes can do a good job.

Give the blade a sharpening and take it for a test drive.

That is the best way to find out what needs to be done and if it is worth doing.

jtk

[John Donofrio]

Thanks for all the good information guys. I think I'll give it the once over and then take her for a test drive. She may not drive like a Ferrari but a Honda can get you there.

[steven c newman]

I think I might have had one of those "economy planes" come through my rehab shop.252358252359252360Might be a step up from the OP's plane. This one was stamped on the tote as a Keifaber Co. plane. Sure looked M-F to me. Added a cutter and caps. Worked quite nicely, with a SHARP iron.

[John Donofrio]

The #9 that Stephen shows is significantly better than the #900 in John's original question. Their single numbers (like #9) was top of the line with the 2-piece lever cap. Drop down a notch to the two-digit series (#90) and another notch to the #900. The 900 casting is pretty rough.

Wow. You weren't kidding the casting is pretty rough. Talk about machining marks.
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[Jim Matthews]

At one point Honda engines were THE ticket to Formula 1 glory.

If you have a tool that's better built, but finicky - you can't cross the finish line.
These are awesome little planes. Make sure to ease the back sole under the handle.

That's what most of us use to put a dent in a freshly planed panel.


Shannon has a comprehensive overview of basic handplane approaches on RWW (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5QPw5I3sBXs).
It's pretty long, but well worth a quick viewing.

My recommendation would be to sharpen the blade well, and do nothing else to see how it cuts, as is.
Other than the back end of the casting at the back, there may be little that needs attention.

If you must flatten the sole, Paul Sellers (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQyjLV92224) shows the down-n-dirty on getting the plane running at a finer fettle.
At the 4:00 mark, he makes a couple keen observations about where you want to "ease" the sole out of flat.

It's an interesting concept, and worth considering if you're taking the trouble to refit an older plane.

My guess is that if you sharpen the blade and fit the chip breaker well, you won't need to do much else.

[steven c newman]

There is a site to look up on how to get one of these back to "like new" status. Go to "Major Panic. com" and enjoy.

[John Donofrio]

There is a site to look up on how to get one of these back to "like new" status. Go to "Major Panic. com" and enjoy.

Excellent info. Thank you!

[John Donofrio]

Spent a little quality time with her yesterday. Smoothed the frog, sharpened the blade, etc. This is what I ended up with.

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I was able to get some nice thin shavings but when I set the chip breaker too tight, chips would get under it and clog the mouth. I did clean up the breaker but I think it may just be due to the thinness of it. I'll fiddle some more later.

One concern about the bottom. It seems to be a bit concave and would require a good bit of metal to be removed to get it really flat. Show stopper or just put it to work? I tried to capture it with this pic:
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[steven c newman]

Put it to work.

[Jim Koepke]

Looks like a good user.

The first picture looks like you have the frog set back a bit much. Is that the final position?

The hardest part will likely be if you want to acquire a matched set.

jtk

[John Donofrio]

The first picture looks like you have the frog set back a bit much. Is that the final position?


Hi Jim,
You are correct. I did have to move the frog forward.

[Chris Fournier]

If you plan on actually using it it is worth tuning. Simple as that!

[Erik Manchester]

John,

It looks as if the bottom is flat in all the places that matter, in front and behind the mouth as well as at the tail. The hollow at the back isn't critical at all.

I have many of the Millers Falls premium bench planes, and they are the equal of any Stanley Bailey.

Enjoy the plane. If you want a MF No 9 (Stanley No 4) to tune up I will send you a Type II for the cost of the postage, about $25 as I have too many planes and must reduce the holdings.