Beginner questions on finish options

[Steve Foster]

I am new to this forum and this is my first post. In advance, thanks to anyone to reads and responds to my request.

I am a beginner and have just finished construction of three mantle clocks for my children, one white oak, one figured maple, and one walnut. I have been sanding and preparing the surface for a finish all along, but always assumed I would do the same thing to all three clocks. After reading in this forum for a while, I quickly realized that this was not a good idea! So, with the understanding that I will try out these finishes on scrap before proceeding, I would solicit your knowledgable feedback, tips and suggestions before proceeding. :)

Here is what I am thinking now:

On the figured maple, start with a water based dye to bring out the figuring, followed by clear shellac, then water based poly (probably semi-gloss).

On the white oak, start with amber shellac until I like the color, then the water based poly.

On the walnut, start with linseed oil, then the clear shellac, then the water based poly.

I think I could pull this off with a good chance of success. However, please give me your tips, tricks and suggestions, as I don't want to ruin all this work with a bad finish.

Thanks in advance,

[Jim Rimmer]

Welcome to the Creek. There are several finishing experts here that will give you some really good advice. I will only say two things:

1. Make sure you take your test pieces through the same finishing process you would on the final project - sanding, finish, etc.
2. Personally I would skip the final poly coat. Shellac is a good finish and clocks are not subject wear that other projects are.

[Scott Holmes]

Jim's advice is sound.

Also be careful with the amber shellac... If you are refering to Zinsser premixed amber shellac; your top coats of choice will not stick well to shellac that still contains the wax. Also building up mutiple coats of amber shellac to get the color darker may be too much shellac. Shellac should be the thinnest possible coat that is flawless.

Better to use a darker shellac if the amber is too light. Garnet shellac is a good choice and most of it is de-waxed.

Shellac, de-waxed or not is fine for a mantle clock finish.

[Steve Foster]

Thank you both for the suggestions. To summarize:
On the maple, use the dye then clear shellac.
On the White oak, use just shellac, tinted to color then clear.
On the Walnut, oil, then clear shellac.

I will practice on the scraps using the same sanding, and finishing regimen.

Questions: Do I sand between shellac coats? Is shellac a wipe on product or do I use a brush? If a brush, natural bristle or nylon?

Thanks again!

[Howard Acheson]

You may have an issue with your shellac. Poly and waterborne finishes will not adhere to a shellac that contains its natural wax. You must assure that you are using a dewaxed shellac use a non-poly varnish. There is only one pre-mixed dewaxed shellac--It's Zinsser's Seal Coat. Other formulations of Zinsser shellac are not wax free.