Can Phenolic be Resawn or Planed?

[Alan See]

I was in a surplus shop the other day and found a 2' square sheet of phenolic about 2 inches thick. I could have gotten it pretty cheap, but 2 inches is way too thick for ZCTIs or router plates! Now it occurs to me that perhaps I could use my bandsaw and planer to pare it down. Is this possible? Or is it just a good way to ruin a blade and a set of knives?

[Norman Hitt]

Alan, Phenolic has been used in many applications in aircraft as far back as I can remember, and we used to cut blocks to size from large 1" thick sheets using a small Delta bandsaw that had a 3 or 4 speed pully and by changing the speed and blades, we could cut steel, aluminum, phenolic and plexiglass . I really don't know how it would cut using a wood cutting blade, but it cut nicely using the metal cutting blade and the same speed we used when cutting aluminum. I feel sure that it could be resawn with the right blade/feed speed combination. You might have to experiment a little on the blade and feed speed to keep the blade from overheating though when "Resawing" vs making a normal cut.

[Dev Emch]

Alan..

Thats the name of the formica subtrate! Remember I said it was on the tip of my tonque the other night?

Formica and wilson arts high pressure plastic laminates are made from a substrate of phenolic plastic with a thin bonded layer of melamine resin which contains the art work. I cut this stuff all the time and I use a duraline
forest sheet goods blade about 12 in in diameter. I also tape up both sides of the kerf when cutting this stuff to prevent any unwanted spliters and blow out from happening.

As I recall, I want to think that this stuff may have fiber in it to reinforce it. Or was that just bakelite? At any rate, make sure you dont have glass or other fiberous stuff in there. If you do, a resaw operation will provide a surface that is an absolute bear to sand or finish smooth again without using some kind of gelcoat. But ask the guy in the store or do others on this forum know the answer to this. Does phenolic plastic sheet material of the type Alan eluded to have fiberous material interlaced or is it just solid plastic?

[Dan Forman]

My understanding is that phenolic does have a fabric base, type of which may vary. It can be cut with a carbide blade on a table saw, routs well, but don't know what would happen resawing. My guess is it wouldn't be pretty, but that's just a guess.

Dan

[Dev Emch]

I know that the formica edges finish very well and if you say it can be routed, that sounds like it can take a keen finish. Heck, we use router bits to chamfer the edges of the formica. So I am thinking it may be worth a shot.

[John Renzetti]

Hi, Phenolic comes in several different grades apparently depending on the binding material. I use a grade called "LE" which has a fine cloth like linen impregnated in the material. Phenolic also has another trade name-Garolite. I've made a bunch of curved pieces with it using the shaper and a template. Machines well but watch out for the fine dust. Nasty stuff, a mask is really necessary when cutting this stuff. Never ran it through a planer.
take care,
John

[Norman Hitt]

I have seen phenolic with and without the fabric layers inside. It is all very hard, but the fabric layers inside do not affect the cut in my experience. Some phenolic has cotton fabric layers and the better grade (Aircraft & Electrical Grade) had linen layers, and the number of layers of fabric can also vary greatly. It can be sanded smooth after cutting (with patience), but won't have the polished surface like the factory surface due to the fabric particles showing from the cut. I do not know if it could be Planed successfully.

Bakelite, does not have any fabric impregnated in it in my experience, and has always seemed more Brittle and not nearly as strong as phenolic.

[Steve Stube]

Micarta is another name for reinforced phenolic.

[Jay Knoll]

Alan

I just built a mortising jig that used phenolic for some parts I had not trouble running a strip through my planer to take it down in thickness (I used light cuts) I cut some 1/4" strips on my table saw, in both instances I had to "polish" the edge with some 400 grit sandpaper but it came out fine

Jay

[Norman Hitt]

Alan

I just built a mortising jig that used phenolic for some parts I had not trouble running a strip through my planer to take it down in thickness (I used light cuts) I cut some 1/4" strips on my table saw, in both instances I had to "polish" the edge with some 400 grit sandpaper but it came out fine

Jay

That's good information, Jay. Thanks for the reply.

[John Shuk]

My buddy has a machine shop and uses phenolic for some of the parts. He said it is a bit of a pain. I'd opt for buying the proper thickness. If you factor in having to sharpen your planer blades or replace a bandsaw blade it defeats the savings. Charlie said it is pretty abrasive stuff.

[Alan See]

Alan

I just built a mortising jig that used phenolic for some parts I had not trouble running a strip through my planer to take it down in thickness (I used light cuts) I cut some 1/4" strips on my table saw, in both instances I had to "polish" the edge with some 400 grit sandpaper but it came out fine

Jay

Thanks Jay, If your planer survived, I guess I'll swing back by the surplus house. I love going to those places by the way, it's like a corprate garage sale.