Difficult Technique

[Richard Jones]

What cut do you find to be the most difficult to "master"? Any idea as to the reason why?

I'll go first: My most difficult cut is a 90º entry cut with a spindle gouge. Dunno why, but I have a real hard time with this one. I've ruined quite a few box lids trying to get it started. I guess the "why" for me is that I just don't know how. Wrong angle of attack, toolrest in wrong position, maybe both and/or more. I think I need to start high and pivot the tip down into the wood, but I'm not sure.

Care to share yours?

[J.D.Redwine]

Anything with the oval skew.

[Thom Sturgill]

What cut do you find to be the most difficult to "master"? Any idea as to the reason why?

I'll go first: My most difficult cut is a 90º entry cut with a spindle gouge.

Richard, try two things, Use a thin (1/8" like the thin sorby) parting tool to start the cut. Alternatively, use a small (3/8") bowl gouge with an about 45 degree edge. The typical25 or 35 degree point on a spindle gouge may be too sharp.

[Dennis Ford]

I think small beads (< 3/8" d) give me the most trouble. I can make them clean or make them a nice shape but rarely can I do both at the same time. Guess that I should buy a beading tool.

[Michael Stafford]

I routinely clean up end grain with a spindle gouge or a detail gouge. The important thing to do is to start the the tool with the bevel aimed in the direction of the cut. The bevel should be parallel to the surface to be cut. In my experience the problem most people have with this cut is that the bevel is not parallel to the piece. The flute should be completely open with the flute aimed at 3 o'clock. Once the sharp edge of the flute starts the cut and there is an edge upon which the bevel can ride rotate the edge of the flute toward 12 o'clock until you get the quality of chips and cut that you are looking for. As the cut is being made the gouge can be directed by using the heel of the bevel as a fulcrum to steer the direction of the cut. Pivoting the handle toward the turner will cause the direction of the cut to go deeper and conversely pivoting the handle toward the heel of the bevel will cause the cut to become shallower.

Practice on round stock until you can make the cut easily. The tool should be sharp. For a real test of skill mount a square piece of stock in a chuck and clean up the end grain without chipping out the corners. When I turn boxes with square lids cleaning and shaping the end grain without chipping the corners increases the pucker factor.

[Harry Robinette]

Dennis F.
Grind a smaller bevel on you gouge and try it. I was told to do this by an 83 year young turner who taught me to turn and it worked great for me.

[Richard Jones]

Ok, so here's what I've done: ground a spindle gouge to approx. 45-47 d. The big thing though was to orient the tool 90 d from what I was doing. I had been attacking from the side, with tool rest parallel with the ways. Turning it 90 d results in a much easier entry.

i guess most people already knew this, but not me!

[Philip Duffy]

I just do a small pull cut towards the rim with the bowl gouge, then reverse the tool and the bevel has a place to rest when doing the cut. - - keeps the tool from getting away from me and save lots of apprehension. Philip

[Philip Duffy]

Getting the bottom of the bowl absolutely flat and the nib removed is my toughest challenge. After all these years I find the round nose scraper that I made out of a planer blade the most effective and efficient. - - my 2c. Philip

[Jim Underwood]

I have the same problem as Philip. I've been shown how to get a clean cut in the bottom of the bowl with a steeper angled bowl gouge, but somehow that clean cut escapes me.

The other thing I have a problem with is, cutting beads with a skew. Even after all these years of using a skew, the fear of that thing skating across a finished piece stays with me. I can make v-cuts, shearing cuts across a face, planing cuts and peeling cuts with a skew, but beads? Forget it. I stay away from beads with my skew and just use my 3/8" spindle gouge.

[Michael Stafford]

Jim, I gave up on cutting beads with a skew also. I can do it when I am practicing but when I turning a real piece I always go back to my gouges where I am more confident. Heck if you get too good with one tool you will not have the pleasure of buying lots of others....

[Richard Jones]

This is what I have trouble with: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me7kQBaxkn8&list=UUNDmXmWgAwWJFTDabadXQcw&index=2

[Richard Jones]

So an update, if anyone is interested: After practicing the entry cut that SB demos in the above video, I have gotten pretty comfortable with it. It still tends to skate to the left if I'm not diligent about hand position, tool position and stance, but much better. A big key was not dropping the handle, per Mr. Batty. Good vid for a fairly difficult cut.

Anyone else have problems with this cut?

[robert baccus]

Yes it is tough but using the techniques above and taking 10 seconds to make the first o.oo1" of cut helps. Also I have an assortment of skews stuck in my shop ceiling but the most trying is getting a fire going fffast in my cast iron stove yeah.