Rabbit laser users

[Cindy Rhoades]

I am needing some help from someone who uses a Rabbit laser. I had/have a job that I had to take up to the high school to have engraved just because of the size. They have a Rabbit laser and the software they have I do not know or understand. The software is what was provided with the machine so I don't know what it is but they can't import my corel file and they had a very hard time importing any other files unless I saved it as a jpeg. The problem is after they finally got it to import it wanted to fill in the entire sign because of the outline so it would have rastered the whole sign as a fill instead of just an outline to vector. From what I could tell Rabbit does not have a set home position like I have with Corel so they couldn't put the outline on both sides to cut all the way through the material. He also had to go in and manipulate my art saved as jpeg and engrave layers. Can anyone tell me how to give them artwork that won't have to be changed in any way because one sign is ruined so I have to make another and that is a lot of work since I start wrough cut lumber and do all the finishing processes myself because I try to give best quality product possible. Can the laser run on Corel? If so I may install Corel for them to use on my items.

[Scott Naylor]

I have a rabbit laser and might be able to provide a little insight, but I may need some clarification on some of your details.

On running corel on their machine - no you will not be able to install it on their machine and run it through their software. Corel does integrate with the Rabbit laser's Lasercut software, but it only integrates with the Lasercut install. But that should not be a problem since you should be able to manage the graphic and pictures in corel and then use it in Lasercut.

I use corel as well as many other kinds of software, so let me take a shot at providing some information.

It sounds to me like you are pulling all graphics and vectors into the Lasercut, and since its possible that your LaserCut parameters are treating the enclosed vectors as something to engrave, which is showing it engraving over the whole thing.

In corel, you need to have the image/art sized properly to whatever size you are going to engrave. I usually save mine as bmp files at 300dpi. The dpi is important because you will need to setup a scan gap value within Lasercut.

If you have an image and vectors, import both into Lasercut. I usually save my vectors in .dxf format for importing into Laser cut. Once vectors and image are imported into Lasercut, select one of them and pick one of the colors at the bottom of the Lasercut screen. That sets up that color so that you can change the parameters in the upper right corner of the software to treat that color as either engrave or cut. So if its a graphic, pick engrave. Then you can double click on the power/speed line and it will open up a box that allows you to input the parameters. Speed and power depend upon what material you are engraving, but for 300dpi graphics, I think the scan gap is .085.

For cutting, select the vectors and change to a different color in Lasercut. The upper righthand section will show that new color. Select the dropdown and change it to Cut. Then doubleclick on that line to change the cutting parameters. Again, cutting parameters will depend upon the material.

If you have multiple layers, you can move the layers up or down (upper right hand box of lasercut) to ensure that you engrave first, before cutting.

As far as having a Home position, when the Rabbit is turned on, press the Datum button on the machine's control panel. That ensures the machine knows where the laser head is. When you Download the file to the laser machine, Lasercut uses indexes from the outside point of the graphic and vectors, depending upon how the machine's initial parameters were setup. On mine, its the upper right corner where a small blue box is displayed. Once downloaded, press the Test button on the Rabbit so that it will show you the outside path it will be taking when it processes all of the engraving/cutting.

I have only had my Rabbit for a couple of months and only have a few hours running on it - but these are some of the things I have learned. It may be more information than you want and I hope it helps.

[Calvin thompson]

so Ray has told me that corel x4 is able to interface direct to lasercut but i have not used. i have also discovered you can turn off the function that sets your zero zero to where ever you move your head so you can set the point and then move the head to flip and it will go back so that may be usefull. good luck!

[pete hagan]

Whether the Rabbit will cut with corel is dependent on the version of software they have with LaserCut and whether they have the corel drivers. Here is the best work around so you may do your work and take a file to them.

1) I always create the file in Corel so that it is the actual size of cut / engrave. For instance I have a 600X900mm bed with a 60 watt tube running LaserCut 5.0. I use Corel the most when I create my images however you can use most any software depending on the output format.

EXAMPLE – Let’s say I need to create a sign that is 20” X 24” (508mm X 610mm)
In this sign I have
(A) fancy border that is engraved scrolls (COLOR RED)
(B) Vector text several lines (COLOR BLUE) I vector cut the outline of the letters to create more
(C) Engraved fill within the above text (COLOR RED)
(D) Shaded graphic originated as a bitmap converted to gray scale 8bit (COLOR GRAY 40% through GRAY 90%)
(E) I always create a square border (COLOR GREEN) that is the outside of my sign stock so that I can orient my home position to be top left.

The above designation of (COLOR) is what I created the artwork in to identify to myself when I import into LaserCut whether it is engraved or cut.

Once I am happy with my finished file in Corel I save as AI version 7 so that I can import into my LaserCut software. I do not have the print driver for running direct out of corel and must use LaserCut to import the file and sent to the laser memory.

I open LaserCut on my PC next to the laser and import the file I created in AIvs7. Once I get the file imported I will see the wireframe for all my art. I set the laser origin to top left and I then set the different (COLOR) for the desired cut / engrave including feed speed and power.
I use a sacrifice board first to test the laser for my work which allows me to create an outline so I know exactly where to place my stock since I don’t have a red dot laser to move the head to a home position. The outline square border I turn my color setting “cut” to on for the original test to create the outline for the stock placement.

As an example for the above described sign ( ¾” piece of MDF) I would set my (COLORS) as follows
(A) fancy border that is engraved scrolls (COLOR RED) [ENGRAVE / Speed= 750 to 900 / Power = 85%]
(B) Vector text several lines (COLOR BLUE) I vector cut the outline of the letters for emphasis [CUT / Speed= 80 / Power = 30%]
(C) Engraved fill within the above text (COLOR RED) [ENGRAVE / Speed= 750 to 900 / Power = 85%]
(D) Shaded graphic originated as a bitmap converted to gray scale 8bit (COLOR GRAY 40% through GRAY 90%) [ENGRAVE / Speed= 600 / Power = 40 - 80% depending on which grey needs to be darker]
(E) I always create a square border (COLOR GREEN) that is the outside of my sign stock so that I can orient my home position to be top left. [CUT = OFF]

So this will create a sign that has engraved scroll outline around the sign. Letters that are engraved but also a cut outline for the outside of the letter to stand out but not cut through, an greyscale image that has a variety of elements that are engraved at different power levers.

This is the easiest way to work around creating in corel and importing into LaserCut 5.0 that I have found. I would be happy to help in any way I can but this will give you some idea of which direction to go. The example picture is something I cut from acrylic and there was engraved text and elements that don't match the above description but gives you an idea. This was cut from behind to allow the face to be smooth for some centerpieces on a dinner table.

[Cindy Rhoades]

Thank you so much for the information. I am going to print this out and take it with me so that they have it for reference. I know nothing about Rabbit lasers but on occasion have to call on the school to help with a project that is to large for my machine. I appreciate the input and will start over making a new sign for them to try to engrave again hopefully both sides are the same this time and they can get it centered.