Cherry Bowl #2

[John Hart]

Here's my second bowl. Hah!..I didn't break this one either. Used the Alkie method of drying...Perfect results. This tree was destroyed by carpenter ants and sat out in my back yard for over a year so it was in pretty bad shape. But it sure has some interesting colors.
It is 2.5" high and 5.5" in diameter. All thats on it now is BLO. All I have in the house is poly right now so I'm going to go get some laquer tomorrow to do the final finish.
Thanks for taking a peek.

[Mark Singer]

John,

Very nice...nice wood as well!

[Dennis Peacock]

Very nice bowl John!!!!

Now....get you some Minwax Tung Oil and some Mineral Spirits. Mix 1/3 BLO, 1/3 Tung Oil and 1/3 Mineral Spirits. Apply to the bowl, let sit for about 20 minutes, wipe dry. Wait 24 hours, apply again, let sit for 20 minutes and lightly wipe. Wait 24 hours once again and then buff. You'll be amazed at the finish and the "feel" of the bowl. It's cheap and a nice finish to boot.!!! :D

Keep'em coming John.....Looks great!!!

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Now THAT IS SOME NARLEY WOOD. With your help, it made a VERY interesting and Beautiful BOWL

Bruce ;)

[Shane Harris]

Man, that is beautiful.... I am never able to find wood with bark inclusions like that. Very nice job... :)


Shane

[John Hart]

Thanks everyone...

Ok Dennis, yer on! That's the finish I'll try, and I'll re-post in a couple of days to see how she looks.

[Glenn Hodges]

John, the wood is the kind of stuff woodturners dream of, you did a superb job with it. I like the flow of the sides and the inside rim. You seem to have an exceptional sense for design, and I look forward to your future pictures. I also use a tung oil solution in my turnings, but I use poly instead of BLO. It is a matter of personal choice. In fact I use spar poly, this helps with uv protection. I use polymerized tung oil I order from Lee Valley. I am sure other people have it, I have had a difficult time finding it. This is 100% pure tung oil which has been cooked under pressure, and it will cure so much faster(in about 24 hours) than raw tung oil which will take up to a week to cure on wood in the high humidity we have in South Georgia. Minwax and Forbys Tung Oil has no tung oil in it. So if you want pure tung oil in your solution you might want to use the polymerized type. I understand some people use the Minwax and Fornbys and get good finishes on their turnings. I did not mean to digress this much, only trying to be helpful. I appreciate the picture.

[Tim Morton]

OK, now the MORTON house is filled with envy..nice job!!:cool:

[John Hart]

OK, now the MORTON house is filled with envy..nice job!!:cool:

Heh heh...you just keep on working on that bandsaw Tim. With a 12" resaw, I think you'll steal the show!

[John Miliunas]

Second bowl??? With that wild grain mix??? You're a courageous man, John! :) Nice looking bowl and that wood is, well...it's WILD!:) If I may be so bold, though, and it's been eons since I've been able to hang on to a lathe chisel, so take this with a grain of salt: I think I may try to spend just a bit more time progressing up from the 80grit "chisel" to try and get rid of the tool marks. I found that, Walnut and most any of the more figured woods were always the most time-consuming on the cleaning up part. :( By the same token, well worth it!:) Just something to keep in mind for future turnings from someone with limited turning abilities. Regardless, that's still a "keeper" and would find a place for display/use in my home!:) :cool:

[John Hart]

John, the wood is the kind of stuff woodturners dream of, you did a superb job with it. I like the flow of the sides and the inside rim. You seem to have an exceptional sense for design, and I look forward to your future pictures. I also use a tung oil solution in my turnings, but I use poly instead of BLO. It is a matter of personal choice. In fact I use spar poly, this helps with uv protection. I use polymerized tung oil I order from Lee Valley. I am sure other people have it, I have had a difficult time finding it. This is 100% pure tung oil which has been cooked under pressure, and it will cure so much faster(in about 24 hours) than raw tung oil which will take up to a week to cure on wood in the high humidity we have in South Georgia. Minwax and Forbys Tung Oil has no tung oil in it. So if you want pure tung oil in your solution you might want to use the polymerized type. I understand some people use the Minwax and Fornbys and get good finishes on their turnings. I did not mean to digress this much, only trying to be helpful. I appreciate the picture.

Thanks Glenn...your work speaks for itself. So I have a couple of a questions though. It seems that poly is frowned upon here at the Creek...or maybe that's a bad interpretation on my part. Is it the thinning and the buffing that makes the difference? Are there any motivations to doing more than two coats? Am I trying to acheive some level of polymer impregnation? So many questions..:confused:

[John Hart]

...I think I may try to spend just a bit more time progressing up from the 80grit "chisel" to try and get rid of the tool marks. I found that, Walnut and most any of the more figured woods were always the most time-consuming on the cleaning up part. ...

Thanks John...Criticism well taken. My work on this bowl was cut short due to the bark giving way. (the bowl flew off of the lathe) So I was stopped by fate I guess. It was my intent to get smoother curves on the inside and get a more even wall thickness. I still have about 500 pounds of this tree left, if I can get around the damage.:(

I'll keep at it.

[John Miliunas]

Thanks John...Criticism well taken. My work on this bowl was cut short due to the bark giving way. (the bowl flew off of the lathe) So I was stopped by fate I guess. It was my intent to get smoother curves on the inside and get a more even wall thickness. I still have about 500 pounds of this tree left, if I can get around the damage.:(

I'll keep at it.

John, from seeing previous work of yours, I have little doubt that with each successive effort, each and every lb. of that 500 will progressively look better! Heck, if my #2 looked THAT good, I would've been feeding the fireplace a whole lot less!:) :cool:

[Jim Becker]

John, that looks great. One would NEVER know this was only your second bowl! No way!

Consider putting a few more applications of oil on the piece over the next week or two and then buffing it out, rather than slathering it in varnish.

[Michael Stafford]

A bowl with a lot of character, good form and a nice finish. :D Your second bowl, huh? Mighty nice, John, mighty nice indeed! ;)

[John Hart]

John, that looks great. One would NEVER know this was only your second bowl! No way!

Consider putting a few more applications of oil on the piece over the next week or two and then buffing it out, rather than slathering it in varnish.

Perhaps I should clarify so you don't give me a destinction that I don't deserve...You see, I've never "successfully" created a bowl...Every attempt in the past has resulted in catastrophic failure in one way or another so I gave up on it for over 5 years. Then, after joining SMC recently and seeing such inspiring work and paying close attention to the chatter back and forth, I decided to give it another try. SMC really did it. Everyone here is so enthusiastic about helping the other guy or gal in making their craft better...not for personal gain...but just because of downright fine character.

Anyway...I hope to improve...And I hope to help someone else some day.

By the way Jim...I'm going to have to add "slather" to my "Top 10 Most Descriptive Words" list. That's a word that just says, "Don't do it!":)

Thanks

[Glenn Hodges]

John, I tried a lot of oil finishes before I started using the one I am now using. I got it from Russ Fairfield, and he is well regarded in the turning profession. As I stated in my last post what ever someone is having success with I never argue with, only admire. I have found the turpentine in the formula I use, 1/3 polymerized tung oil, 1/3 spar urethene, 1/3 turpentine gives me a finish I like. Some like others, what can I say, I am only telling you what I use, and it came highly recommended by a guy I admire. I think you will get a higher gloss using Minwax Tung Oil, but again as I stated before, you will not be using any tung oil, only poly, and what ever they put in it. I called Minwax, and talked with one of the VP's I asked what were the basic compounds in their Minwax Tung oil, and he would not tell me. I want the people using my bowls to know what type of finish they are buying. Some are allergic to a lot of different things. He would not tell me so I did not buy anymore of his product. After further investigation, I found there is not any tung oil in theirs or Fornby's Tung Oil Finish. I believe that is why they will not tell the customers what compounds are in their products. Another long answer to a short question. John, use different finishes, and find one or two you like, I imagine that is what most of us have done. The turpentine helps the finish soak into the wood, and the buffing helps remove fine scratches in the finish and brings out the shine. Good luck....

[Kurt Aebi]

Great Second Completed Bowl, John! (how's that for clarification!, lol)

You certainly have the talent and now it sounds like you have developed the patience (which is probably why you were frustrated before) to create some real nice looking pieces!

Do not be afraid to experiment with your finish (I think that is what Glenn is meaning - that and that there isn't a Right or Wrong finish) and try to keep the end use of the piece you are making to help determine what you use for a finish.

Great Job, keep up the good work and practice will make all the difference in the world for your turning. Keep this bowl somewhere and look at it again after you do 10 or 15 more and you'll see what I mean. ;)

[John Hart]

Yup...I think I get the idea. I'll tell ya, the new Finishing Forum was a great idea. I really need help in that arena. Thanks much Glenn!. ...And I think you're right Kurt...I've gotten more patient....But seeing the work from everyone here helped with that a lot.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I like the "character" of the wood and bowl. Great job, John!

[Kurt Aebi]

John,

I agree with you that seeing the work of all these talented woodworkers sure has helped me as well. Also, their constructive critisism and suggestions sure help as well.

This is a group of very talented, very freindly, helpful, unselfish people, who have helped a lot of us become better woodworkers. I wish to thank all of them for that!

[Ernie Nyvall]

Wow John, you've got some interesting wood around your house. It looks great. I like that lip.

Ernie

[John Hart]

Wow John, you've got some interesting wood around your house. It looks great. I like that lip.

Ernie

Hey Ernie!
Thanks
I swore I wasn't going to say anything to you until I got that wood ready to ship...So...It's in the car!.....Sheesh...between my schedule and procrastination, I thought I was never going to get it done!

Speaking of interesting wood...I found another tree out back that I roughed out a little Urn....I'm going to post that tonight. I don't know what it is.. I need some insight.

[Pat Salter]

OK, for me to say anything about that bowl would be a waste of time. It's been said. A couple of times :D What I want to talk about is that bench! I know, this is a turny forum....but that bench is awesome too! :eek:
And if that's bowl No. 2, I can't wait to see bowl No. 20 :)

[John Hart]

....What I want to talk about is that bench! I know, this is a turny forum....but that bench is awesome too! ...:)

heh heh...I WISH that was a bench! That's just a butcher block table that I'm working on...(maple and cherry). You're pushing me over the edge though...I'd like to have bench tops like that someday. Thanks!:)