Nova live center questions

[paul vechart]

I replaced the original Delta live center on my 46-460 lathe with the Nova live center and I like it a lot except for the length of the point in the cup. It protrudes .300" before the cup is in contact with the wood. It takes a lot of force to penetrate the wood if it's anything hard. This is a lot of force on the headstock bearings. Do any of you drill a pilot hole first for the point to go in or is there any trick to make the point shorter while still engaging the cup into the wood? The original Delta point was shorter and had a steeper angle so that was not an issue.

Also when replacing the original Delta live center I lost 1.75" of usable turning length of the lathe. The Nova body is 1.25" longer (can't do anything about this) and the tappered shaft is 1/2" longer which does not allow the quill to be turned all the way in to zero (see the attached pictures of the tailstock scale). Would it be OK to cut 1/2 inch off the end of the Nova shaft so I don't loose 1/2" length capacity which I need for turning tool handles? Thanks for any and all feedback...:)

Paul


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[Jamie Donaldson]

Paul, that Nova center is a big chunk, and you can cut off a portion of the Morse taper length, but you will probably lose the self-ejecting feature when cranking in the tailstock quill. I usually locate center on the workpiece wood and mark with a punch, and this is sufficient for engaging the pin and cup on the tailstock. I also have modified tailstock pins to a shorter length by taping the rotating cup to the body of the tailstock assembly so that it doesn't rotate, then placing it in the headstock and turn down the pin to desired size with HSS shop made detailing tools. For extra bed length you will need the Delta bed extension.

[Josh Bowman]

Paul, just thinking here, cutting off the end of a morse taper should not reduce the protrusion from the tailstock, since it contacts the female all the way down. To check this, take one of the centers, inserts and place in your tailstock. The inserts are morse taper 2 also, but just the fat end. I own one of these but didn't feel it took anything excessive to sink it into the wood, unless the wood is very hard. The point is a little fat, but that can be a plus also, since it's harder to bend and get out of alignment. I guess one of the reasons the Nova is so big is because of the 3 bearings that support it, that would be a plus.

[Anthony Diodati]

Paul, that Nova center is a big chunk, and you can cut off a portion of the Morse taper length, but you will probably lose the self-ejecting feature when cranking in the tailstock quill.l don't think he wants to cut part of the mt 2 to shorten it, but in his case he can't crank the tailstock in as far, because it is self ejecting before he reaches the 0 mark on his quill. If your old delta center was self ejecting ok, then you should be able to cut the taper to the length of the old one with out issue. I usually locate center on the workpiece wood and mark with a punch, and this is sufficient for engaging the pin and cup on the tailstock. I also have modified tailstock pins to a shorter length by taping the rotating cup to the body of the tailstock assembly so that it doesn't rotate, then placing it in the headstock and turn down the pin to desired size with HSS shop made detailing tools. I agree with, modify the center. Or use a file under power to shape the center.
Thanks, Tony

[paul vechart]

Thanks for the feedback guys...I will probably cut 1/2 " off the taper which will match the length of the Delta and it should still self eject. Good idea on reshaping the point to shorten it up a little.

Thanks again...

Paul

[Mark Levitski]

You should get a center that allows you to adjust the point in or out. This allows for a choice of penetration according to the wood density and other factors.

[Steve Peterson]

I have a Oneway live center. It is not identical, but possibly similar enough to answer. The center point is removable which allows contact with just the cup. It may be possible to grind down the tip of the center point to reduce the penetration. The tip should be replacable for only a few $ if you decide that you need the longer length.

Steve

[Wells Jacobson]

Guess I'm of the same mind as Josh. Can't see how you will gain length by cutting off the end of the Morse taper--- assuming you mean to cut off the small diameter end. Cutting off the large diameter end will only help if you have extra length sticking out of the tailstock when the taper is fully seated--- and then you will have to somehow reattach the live center.
Or perhaps i'm missing something.
Jake

[Jamie Donaldson]

Wells- if the Morse taper is longer than necessary it will start self-ejecting sooner than a shorter taper when the quill is reversed. Cutting off a bit of the small end taper makes it possible to reverse the quill a bit further before the taper bottoms out, gaining maybe a 1/2" or more in spindle turning length.

[John M. Smith]

If you need the extra length for a tool handle, why not just use the original delta center? It will give you the extra length you are looking for.

[Thom Sturgill]

If you need the extra length for a tool handle, why not just use the original delta center? It will give you the extra length you are looking for.
+1 unless turning tool handles is the majority of what you turn. There is no reason you need have only one center in your kit. BTW, I have the same issue with several aftermarket centers that I need to cut some of the end off to regain some quill travel.

[paul vechart]

Jamie has the right observation on this issue of cutting 1/2" off the end of the morse taper.


John & Tom... the reason I got the Nova live center was because the one and only bearing in the Delta is wobbling. I may have to try and use it for the tool handle to get by...or I was thinking of making a short bed extension...maybe 8 or 10 inches would do just fine. The delta bed extension is $150.00 and I really don't need that much length.

Thanks for the feedback...

Paul