New Uer Building a Hifi Rack - Part II

[Finnian Dawson]

Thought I would start a new thread, the last got very long and difficult to follow. It also turned into a very interesting debate on the benefits of adding "acoustic improvements" to hifi furniture, such as spikes and cones. I am really can't make up mind, as a token gesture, I will install a cone to the bottom of the legs, kindly suggested by Michael Wildt.

So now I have cut my original worktop piece into 4 main pieces for the shelves, this was with the help of a local carpenter:

251808

BTW, here is a rough sketup model:

251809

So, my next step is to drill my holes for the shelves and for the posts, so I can install my 3/4" diameter continuous allthread bar in each corner I will source some 2"x2" squares for the posts, as kindly suggeted by Steven Satur.
(Steve, I was a little confused by your last post regarding how to drill the holes without splitting the wood??) Are you suggesting that I scrap the idea of allthread, and just use dowels? I thought that the allthread would make this unit rock solid?

I believe that there are rigs that can be bought where one can install their own regular drill to make a drill press unit? Would it be advisable to source one of these in the context of my project? What would the important spec to look for, chuck travel? As the thickness of each shelf is 1.5", and there are for shelves, would I need a chuck travel of 4x1.5" = 6" in order to drill these holes in correct position?

If anybody has any other suggestions on design changes, then please let me know!
Also, I plan to put a clear coat of lacquer on this, which I expect will bring up the grain nicely. Any other suggestions on this? When should I apply this, I assume after I have drilled all the required holes?

[Steven Satur]

If you drill a 5/8 hole for 5/8 all thread the face of the wood will splinter out. You need a over sized hole.
Like I said, if you are not ever going to change your setup, and want a cheap way to do it, just dowel the posts and shelves and skip the all thread. You can get spikes with threads for the bottom.

Steve

[Myk Rian]

The other thread is only 2 pages long. Some threads go 15-20 pages.

[Finnian Dawson]

The other thread is only 2 pages long. Some threads go 15-20 pages.

thanks Steve. I'm looking for a new corded drill. What specs would you recommend that would see me through on most diy wood projects. Also, what othertools and consumables will i need for this job?

[Jim O'Dell]

Just to expand on Steve's suggestion to drill a larger hole than 5/8" for the 5/8" all-thread, I think he is saying if you try to slide the all-thread in, it is too tight and will splinter the wood, which it will. Since you are using 2X2 wood for the posts, go to 3/4" to drill the holes with, in both the shelves and the posts. The pipe will slip through with no problems.

To make drilling the holes easier with just a handheld drill, you need to make a jig. It would be easy to take a scrap piece of wood (even a piece of 2 X 4) to mimic the corner of the shelf, and drill a hole in it where you want it to be in the corner of the shelves. On the two sides that match the corner of the shelves, add a piece of say 3/4" ply to form a lip that "hooks" on to the corner of the shelf. Use the hole in the 2 X 4 as your drill guide. Repeat on the 4 corners of each of the shelves. Remember to have a scrap piece of wood to keep from splintering out the shelf at the bottom as you drill through the shelf, again a 2 X 4 on it's side would work great. Have one at each corner so the shelf is flat, and use the jig to drill each shelf corner, one shelf at a time. That way all of the holes are in the same place, and you don't have to have a super long bit to get through all of the shelves. Plus you don't have to figure out a way to keep all the shelves together when drilling. And if your pilot hole in the jig is perpendicular, all the holes will line up perfectly. If this isn't easy enough to follow, let me know and I'll make a jig and take pictures while I'm doing it and post. I know I'm very visually oriented and thus have trouble following written instructions sometimes. If this would help, let me know. It's the least I can do for being one of the guys that totally obliterated your original thread.:D Jim.

[Finnian Dawson]

Just to expand on Steve's suggestion to drill a larger hole than 5/8" for the 5/8" all-thread, I think he is saying if you try to slide the all-thread in, it is too tight and will splinter the wood, which it will. Since you are using 2X2 wood for the posts, go to 3/4" to drill the holes with, in both the shelves and the posts. The pipe will slip through with no problems.

To make drilling the holes easier with just a handheld drill, you need to make a jig. It would be easy to take a scrap piece of wood (even a piece of 2 X 4) to mimic the corner of the shelf, and drill a hole in it where you want
it to be in the corner of the shelves. On the two sides that match the corner of the shelves, add a piece of say 3/4" ply to form a lip that "hooks" on to the corner of the shelf. Use the hole in the 2 X 4 as your drill guide. Repeat on the 4 corners of each of the shelves. Remember to have a scrap piece of wood to keep from splintering out the shelf at the bottom as you drill through the shelf, again a 2 X 4 on it's side would work great. Have one at each corner so the shelf is flat, and use the jig to drill each shelf corner, one shelf at a time. That way all of the holes are in the same place, and you don't have to have a super long bit to get through all of the shelves. Plus you don't have to figure out a way to keep all the shelves together when drilling. And if your pilot hole in the jig is perpendicular, all the holes will line up perfectly. If this isn't easy enough to follow, let me know and I'll make a jig and take pictures while I'm doing it and post. I know I'm very visually oriented and thus have trouble following written instructions sometimes. If this would help, let me know. It's the least I can do for being one of the guys that totally obliterated your original thread.:D Jim.

Jim, forgive me, but i really cannot visualize this. I would sincerely appreciate some photos. Very kind of you to offer, thanks!

[Jim O'Dell]

Ok Finnian, here it is. A simple drill bit guide.
picture 1.251873 Block of 2 x 4 This is about 6" long. Note in the lower left corner I marked the size of the leg (2 X 2). I put it directly in the corner, but you may want it back so that the shelf overhangs it a little. I marked the center of where the leg goes to know where to drill.
picture 2.251874 Hole drilled. I used my drill press just because it was easy.
picture 3.251875 Two pieces of 3/4" scrap about 3 or 4" wide. Note that I have a scrap piece of 3/4" material under the 2 X 4 block so I have a lip for it to butt up to the shelf material. The bottom looks just like the top in this picture. They are virtually identical on both sides.
picture 4.251876 Pieces screwed into the 2 X 4 block.
picture 5.251877 Place the shelf on some scrap pieces of wood. The one that is visible on the right side should have been at the corner so it would be under where the drill bit would go through the shelf.
Picture 6.251878 Jig pushed tight at corner of shelf and held down by a clamp. Notice the drill bit is in the 2 X 4. I'm not holding the drill at this point since I have the camera in one hand. The jig guide allows for the hole to be drilled at precisely the same place and same angle, hopefully perpendicular to the shelf!!, on each corner of each shelf.

Hope you have some scrap materials. This literally took less time to build than it did to load the pictures in the computer and write this up. It is that simple. Jim.

[Finnian Dawson]

Ok Finnian, here it is. A simple drill bit guide.
picture 1.251873 Block of 2 x 4 This is about 6" long. Note in the lower left corner I marked the size of the leg (2 X 2). I put it directly in the corner, but you may want it back so that the shelf overhangs it a little. I marked the center of where the leg goes to know where to drill.
picture 2.251874 Hole drilled. I used my drill press just because it was easy.
picture 3.251875 Two pieces of 3/4" scrap about 3 or 4" wide. Note that I have a scrap piece of 3/4" material under the 2 X 4 block so I have a lip for it to butt up to the shelf material. The bottom looks just like the top in this picture. They are virtually identical on both sides.
picture 4.251876 Pieces screwed into the 2 X 4 block.
picture 5.251877 Place the shelf on some scrap pieces of wood. The one that is visible on the right side should have been at the corner so it would be under where the drill bit would go through the shelf.
Picture 6.251878 Jig pushed tight at corner of shelf and held down by a clamp. Notice the drill bit is in the 2 X 4. I'm not holding the drill at this point since I have the camera in one hand. The jig guide allows for the hole to be drilled at precisely the same place and same angle, hopefully perpendicular to the shelf!!, on each corner of each shelf.

Hope you have some scrap materials. This literally took less time to build than it did to load the pictures in the computer and write this up. It is that simple. Jim.

Jim, an excellent guide. This will help me no end. I really do not know how to thank you enough. I appreciate the time you've take to do this.

Even if I were to use dowel joint, I could have used the same method to have everything exactly centred? What dowel diameter should I use for a support of 2"x 2"?
I may have to glue pieces together to get 2x2, but then I guess I shouldn't drill through the glued joint?

Finnian

[Jim Matthews]

I've been down the road with flexi-racks, the suspended all-thread racks, etc.

I would not build this as one piece, but rather as four stackable tables that index to a point
on the next table, beneath. I would also make them progressively shorter, as you go up.

Heaviest item on the bottom, control center (preamp, in my case) at the top.

How will you manage the wiring, to keep things neat?

[Finnian Dawson]

I've been down the road with flexi-racks, the suspended all-thread racks, etc.

I would not build this as one piece, but rather as four stackable tables that index to a point
on the next table, beneath. I would also make them progressively shorter, as you go up.

Heaviest item on the bottom, control center (preamp, in my case) at the top.

How will you manage the wiring, to keep things neat?

hi Jim
I prefer the appearance if all tiers are of equal height
why wouldn't you build as one unit?

[Pat Barry]

Isn't 3/4" all thread a bit big? It would hold a tank (Sherman type). Also - I wouldn't want the exposed nuts and such. I would use the dowels and glue and call it good

[Jim O'Dell]

Yes, you can use the jig for dowels too. It would actually work on the spacers and the shelves if you put the spacers right at the corner instead of set back. Or you could make a second one for the spacers. Jim.

[Finnian Dawson]

what diamter dowels should I get for this? (posts are 2"x2")? Any particular type of dowel recommended or any particular method to install them?

[Richard Coers]

All thread rod is never nominal dimension. It's always undersize. 5/8" all thread will easily slide through a 5/8" hole. Now if you use a cheap spade bit, who knows what the actual hole size will be. It probably won't be round, but I doubt if it will be undersize either.

[Finnian Dawson]

Been quite a while, but I've managed to cut the supports (4" high) and I am ready to start drilling the dowel holes. I've come across the Dowelmax, and think that it may be a worthwhile investment.
Could it be used in this case? I am going to set the supports not at the edge of the shelf, but about 1" in from the face and 1" in from the side of it.

I was also about to invest in a bench drill press, but if I get the dowelmax - would it reduce the uses for a drill press (at least in terms of drilling straight holes for joints, which would be the main reason i'd buy it for??)

Thanks