Buffing compounds

[Richard Jones]

Ted Calver's question earlier prompted a bit of research into the ingredients of buffing compounds. As far as I could find, all Tripoli and white diamond compounds contain somewhere between 7-15% tallow, used, I assume, as part of the binder for the silica quartz buffing compound (something else I didn't know). I had to look up tallow, but in short form, it's rendered animal fat. Yum.

Ren wax, which I really like as far as wax goes, does have its own drawbacks. Imbedding itself into nooks and crannies and possible offensive odor are a couple of them.

Anyone care to share their thoughts?

[John Keeton]

Richard, tallow is probably used since it is reported to note stain wood or otherwise interfere with finishing. Some folks buff bare wood prior to applying finish.

I don't have a sense of smell, but I haven't noticed any drawbacks to Ren wax. I used it VERY sparingly, relying largely on the buffing wheel picking up the wax and moving it around. I use a small piece of paper shop towel I keep in the can to apply it and, as said, apply a very light coat - barely visible on the surface. I don't try to get it into the nooks and crannies - relying instead on the wheel to do that.

Here is a link to the MSDS on buffing compounds for anyone interested - http://www.unitedabrasives.com/Docs/Safety/UAMSDS%2016%20Polishing%20Compound%20Kit%208-09.pdf

[Michael Stafford]

I tried the buffing compounds and decided not to use them. What buffing I do occurs on the lathe with the piece spinning and involves the use of cheesecloth and soft felt. I am not looking for a high gloss finish and prefer a semi-gloss finish top coated with Renaissance wax which as much as anything helps to hide the fingerprints on my items which are handled a lot by potential customers. I apply the Renaissance wax while the piece is on the lathe with a well worn piece of non-abrasive pad followed by a piece of soft cheesecloth. The wax is brought up to a shine with the dry cheesecloth and soft felt. Renaissance wax is easily renewed. The Renaissance wax provides a boost to the shine without making it look like polished plastic IMHO.

[Michelle Rich]

I agree with Michael

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree with the above. Ren Wax needs to be applied very lightly. The wheel will move it around on the piece. I have never found Ren Wax to have a odor to it. I do buff a lot of my pieces and haven't had problems with tripoli or white diamond. Just make sure you don't use the white diamond on dark porous wood like walnut.

[Ted Calver]

I don't always buff, but when I do it's just tripoli, white diamond, renn wax. No white diamond on anything porus or with lots of places it would accumulate. The carnuba/mix stick that came with the Beal system showed water spots and finger prints, so I bought a new clean buff for just renn wax, applied sparingly. It does seem to have a chemically smell, but it doesn't last. Always thought (but don't have a source) that the tripoli left a residue that the white diamond removed. There certainly is a difference in the amount of shine achieved between the two. Lately have just been sanding to 600 then burnishing at high speed with brown paper bag which gets me just the right amount of shine I'm looking for.

[Marvin Hasenak]

After doing a little research about microcrystalline wax I realized it was paraffin based. A simple look at wiki for "microcrystalline wax" will give you the quickest answer. Then look a the characteristics of paraffin wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, and palm wax. Then think about what you want to get out of your wax and make your own.

[Harry Robinette]

I came up with the same thing Marvin H did. I went back to my Staples Crystal Clear it has no bee's wax no silicone just carnauba wax and it has no oder .Paraffin and bees wax both are soft waxes and will leave finger prints Crystal Clear will not leave finger prints after about 8 to 10 hours to harden.What I could find out is it's chemically soften and when the chemical flashes off you have a very hard wax.
JMHO

[robert baccus]

A real antique dealer put me on to a secret--his pieces that looked almost new(400 yrs) were finished in France by the royal wood workers, used carnuba/beeswax finish only. This was a 3/1 ratio and thinned with turpentine. Often scrubbed in with goose quill brushes also. His duller pieces of the same age were various oil--varnish mixes. Looked it up in a history book and he was correct. I find a great finish can be had by sanding-steelwool and buffing with tripole and then any good wax. This only works on very hard woods only.