PDA

View Full Version : Difficult Grizzly 1023 blade raising



Tim Reagan
01-18-2013, 11:14 PM
I have a about 8 year old griz 1023, and have noticed it quite difficult to raise the blade up and down. I have unscrewed the lock knob and coated the gears with dry graphite lube without difference. Any ideas would be helpful.
thanks, tim.

Roger Rayburn
01-19-2013, 12:04 AM
My 1023 is about 5 years old. The manual has a troubleshooting question that suggests that if the hand wheel binding may be caused by too much engagement of the gears but in looking at the drawings I wonder if the screw and the gears / "nut" are just plain cruddy. They are in the path of all of that sawdust and without looking at mine, I'm not sure if you could actually see all of the screw and the "nut" it passes through. I also wonder about alignment of the screw through the nut. You might give it some freedom and see if that helps. If your manual got misfiled, you can download another one from their site.

Ole Anderson
01-19-2013, 9:34 AM
Do you use your lock knob on your blade raising wheel? Any chance it vibrated in without your knowing it? I have had my G1023 for 15 years and never had to lube the trunnion ways.

Edit: sorry, I didn't read your post very well, I see that you are very familiar with the lock knob.

david brum
01-19-2013, 9:38 AM
I had the same problem with mine after a few years. I also tried just lubing the gears, with only modest improvement. I eventually had to go at the gears with a screwdriver and chisel the gunk off. The sawdust and pitch gets compressed into something like glue, kind of like what builds up on saw blades. In my case, the build up was thick enough to jam the mechanism. After I cleaned the gears off, it was good as new.

eugene thomas
01-19-2013, 11:10 AM
I had same problem. Then cleaned gears. Seemed to work.

Tim Reagan
01-19-2013, 5:25 PM
To me the gears look perfectly clean. I wonder if I'm looking at the right gears?...

david brum
01-19-2013, 9:42 PM
If you take off the throat plate and look inside, toward the front of the saw, they are right there. If the teeth are truly clean, you might need to hit some of the pivots. Take a look here (http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g1023_m.pdf) on page 26. Grizzly shows the recommended lube areas. The picture is from the back of the saw, but you get the idea.

Steve Griffin
01-20-2013, 7:49 PM
check the allen head screw. One day my 1023 became hard to raise, and had a bit of a grinding sound. I was baffled as to the cause until I saw the allen head screw was loose. (case number 2,377 that a stupid allen screw caused trouble in my shop).

Tim Reagan
02-05-2013, 5:52 PM
So I took out the shaft that goes from the front handle to the back of the saw with the worm drive on it for raising the blade out of the saw. The bushings and shaft look good, but when I place it back in for fit, it doesn't line up with the back bushing. Is there an adjustment on the front trunnion assembly to move the front bushing area?

Tim Reagan
02-10-2013, 12:19 AM
Final followup: Eventually took off the top and it seemed there was alot of packed sawdust and a piece of wood wedged around the trunnion. Once cleaned out, everything seemed to go together well and seem to function like new. Thanks for the help.

david brum
02-10-2013, 1:02 AM
Ouch, sorry you had to take the top off. At least you have a good working knowledge of how everything works inside the cabinet.