Sissou Bowl and a Question

[Brian Kent]

Some wonderful sissou from Kathy Marshall. Thank you Kathy. This was a blast and I love the light color.

With the limit of my tools and skills I could only get to 1/2" on the undercut and turned the rest to match that thickness.

The wood is wet. I polished but added no finish. What should I do next? Wait? With that thickness I could let it dry and then return and finish. Or if the thickness is not a structural problem, I would be happy to just let it dry then apply a finish when it is dry enough. I have never turned wet before, so I don't know if I have to do anything.

Here is the bowl and my scrapers. I just made the middle one out of a file - testing what part to sharpen and where to leave it rounded.
My favorite bottom scraper is the massive file on the right - 3/8" thick and long so it has very little vibration.

The shape on the middle one was good for turning it further under the rim, but It was either powdering or grabbing. I'll keep working on the shape, the angle of approach, and the sharpening.

Thanks.

[Scott Hackler]

That Sissoo is a very stable wood that (from my experience) doesn't move much, if at all. I would leave it sit for a few days to a few weeks, sand it again up to 400 if needed and apply your favorite finish. I prefer an oil based finish like Tung Oil on most stuff.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Nice looking bowl and like Scott said it is pretty stable. I would let it dry for a few weeks and then finish it. I also like to use a oil finish. Just as a side note I would not make a scraper out of a file. Friend of mine made one. He had a catch and it shattered on him. Luckily he wasn't hurt to bad.

[Brian Kent]

Mmmm. Shattered steel at high velocity. :(

[Rodney Walker]

Nice looking bowl.

I agree with what Bernie said about the files. Files are known to be on the brittle side, you may want to replace the scrapers you made as soon as you can before they do break on you.

Scraper blanks from even top of the line manufacturers like Thompson http://thompsonlathetools.com/tooltype.asp?TYPE=SC cost far less than a trip to the emergency room. If you're budget doesn't allow that(I know for me it would be a real splurge), Penn State Industries carries scrapers starting at about $14.00 complete with handles. Harbor Freight currently has a set of eight turning tools including at least 3 scrapers on sale for $43.00 and a cheaper set at about $19.00 though those would probably be scraping the bottom of the barrel.

Rodney

[Brian Kent]

The one on the left in the original photo, center in the photo below is from that Harbor Freight set. I would like one that is sturdier to get under the rim without vibration.

edit:
A few months ago I got some un-handled tools at San Diego Woodturners club. The massive file scraper was one of them (1-3/4" x .4" x 18"). I just checked and there is a 3/4" x 1/4 round nose scraper that looks sturdier than the Harbor Freight one. I'll put a full-size handle on it and give it a try.

It is the one on the left in the photo.

[Rodney Walker]

Looks like you got it covered then. Good. Turning is fun but it's not worth getting hurt for. Besides, blood will make your tools rust.
Tool handles are always a fun little project anyway.
Rodney

[Kathy Marshall]

Nice job on the bowl Brian! I thought you might like that wood, haven't found anyone yet that didn't like it! Even though this load of logs didn't have any color, it's just plain fun to turn. I usually turn sissoo to finished size and apply an oil finish at the same time.

[Aric Krueger]

Nice looking bowl! ...and interesting wood. I agree that turning tools made from files can be quite dangerous and while turning is a lot of fun, it's not worth a trip to the hospital.

I'm no metallurgist, but from what I understand, back in the good 'ol days, turners often made their own tools from worn out files. They heated the whole file up in a blacksmith or horseshoe furnace and let it cool slowly in open air. That removed the temper and made the metal 'soft' and non-brittle. They then did any rough-shape grinding necessary and filed, sanded and polished it smooth. It was given a handle at that stage. They would take the handled tool and heat up only about an inch at the cutting edge and suddenly quench it in oil or water thereby hardening the cutting tip. Finally, they would grind the finished sharp bevel.

I had a set of super cheap turning chisels that were not HSS and were poorly made. I think were simply carbon steel; not even any kind of tool steel. I polished the surfaces of them and I could see by the color of the metal that only about an inch at the very end (cutting end) was hardened. They were light weight and complete junk.

It may be possible to make "old-timey" turning chisels that are reasonably safe, but then you get the "old-timey" problems that went with them. i.e. not holding an edge very long and the constant need for sharpening; or the metal being too soft and rather than shattering, it suddenly bends causing a catastrophic catch.

IMHO, HSS tools from PSI or Harborfreight are far superior to tools that are not HSS (or some modern tool steel) and are probably a whole lot safer. Yup, when you get them, they usually need some prep-work. (sanding, polishing to get them to take a good edge and glide along the tool rest... and sharpening, but for the money, they are a good value.

Occasionally, I've seen good quality tools on ebay and in second-hand tool/thrift stores for exceptionally good prices. I suspect they are from estates where people don't know what they are, or, are simply trying to get rid of them. ...Just another possible source to consider for acquiring affordable tools.

[Thom Sturgill]

Nice bowls, I love doing callabashes, but no experience with Sissou. It takes a while to get used to undercutting that curve.

I have the Benjamin's Best set from PSI - two scrapers for less than $50. They are very good scrapers. I also have two of the Sorby 1/2" thick Extra-Heavy duty scrapers that are also excellent, but don't seem to keep as good an edge as the BBs. but don't vibrate either. I also have one similar to the middle one you showed from Packard.(about $55). I do not use the burr off of the grinder, that is generally a wire edge and not fit to cut with. I polish the top and use a Veritas Scraper Burnisher to put the burr on
251820 (http://www.leevalley.com/US/images/item/woodworking/turning/05k3501s2.jpg) Lee valley tools
(http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=20266&cat=1,330,49233&ap=1)
While I have used chisels made from files for bench carving, I would not even consider using one on the lathe.

[Brian Kent]

I put the old files away and worked on a bowl yesterday with the 3 scrapers that are made to be scrapers. They worked fine, especially the thicker one I just put a handle on. I would like to get something to help with the under-the rim cut, similar to the middle tool shape in my first picture. Any recommendations? Thom, when you said you have one from Packard, is that similar to the middle one in my first photo or second. With that reach I would prefer something thick, with minimum vibration. Also, Thom, I have never seen that scraper burnisher before. Very interesting.

[Thom Sturgill]

Brian, I was talking about the hooked scraper. I believe I have the Cindy Drozda version, but I bought it at a symposium, so I am not sure. I believe she is credited with that hooked design, but again, I could easily be wrong about that. On a calabash with a large opening, I have been successful in just using a bowl gouge depending on the amount of recurve. I have also used other regular hollowing tools with bent tips, such as the Ellsworth hollowers.:
251839 or bent scrapers like: 251840 which are available from a number of vendors/makers. I use the Drozda style mostly for hollowing ornaments or lipped boxes.