Rikon 10-325 band saw

[Fred Perreault]

I use my band saw to process turning blanks, and it has been working fine for 2 years. In the last month it was taking longer for the motor to spool up..... much longer. Today it won't get up to speed but rather trips the breaker. I am electricity phobic, but I imagine that it might be the motor. Anyone have any suggestions? I can't cut any turning blanks, and it's been hours since I last turned and I am starting to get antsy. Does anybody else have the Rikon 10-325? There's a black box on top of the electric motor. ( ? )

thanks, Fred

[John Oliver35]

Fred,

I have a 10-325 for about 3 years, never had a problem with the motor.

Will the motor start if you remove the blade? The bearings on the factory guide are not reliable, I have replaced 3 or 4 of them. If the guides are too tight against the blade with frozen bearings that might do it. As would bad bearings on either of the wheels.

If it still is hesitant to start after checking out the blade/belts then it is probably the starter capacitor in the motor. I have never opened up the black box to see how it is configured, but someone else here probably has.

Report back what you find - Good Luck
John

[Jerry Marcantel]

If your motor just hummmms when to turn it on, it's most likely the capacitors. Remove the capacitor, noting the wire configuration, usually 2-3 wires and possibly 2 capacitors, but don't go to Rikon to get replacements. Go to an electric motor repair, and get them for at least half the price....... ......... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Jason Ritchie]

I just bought this bandsaw 2 weeks ago. I had to open the black box in order to re-wire for 220v. The motor capacitor is located in the black box and there are just small phillips screws holding the lid on. Just 2 red wires coming from the motor to the capacitor. I would try removing the blade and giving the bottom wheel a kick-start to see if it will go. I would use a stick to nudge the wheel though as I have already smashed a finger spinning the bottom wheel while testing blade tracking. The motor pulley sticks out close to the wheel and will eat fingers. Mine came with a 5 year warranty and the folks at Rikon have been very nice and helpful resolving some out of the box issues on mine so maybe give then a call. I also saw they have a Baldor motor upgrade for these saws but its a bit pricey.

[Thom Sturgill]

I have the Craftsman Pro, which is essentially identical to the Rikon (The Rikon has a better tensioner). John is right on about the blade tension and bearings. I replaced mine with bearings made for skate boards, I wanted the sealed bearings and they are the cheapest as most boarders don't like them.

[Fred Perreault]

Thanks for the information. When I saw the motor tripping the breaker, I released some of the tension on the blade and tried giving it a spin for help. That didn't do much so I took off the blade and spun everything and it was free, but the motor still wanted to just hum and labor to start, then tripped the breaker. I have an email message in to Rikon, and will give them a call this morning. I will open the junction box and inspect for the capacitors to get things going. I really like the saw for my purposes, but I don't relish shaping my blanks with a chainsaw again.... ugh.

[Curt Harms]

My Rikon 10-325 did what you're describing new out of the box except if I spun the wheels by hand then hit the power switch it would start and run. I suspected a start cap but Rikon just shipped me a new motor. I thought perhaps there were 'issues' with a batch of motors but this was years ago when they first came out.

[Joe Bradshaw]

I also had problems with my Rikon 10-325. It started blowing capacitors. Rikon cs was very helpful. They offered to sent me a replacement motor at no charge or for $125 I could up grade to a 2 1/2 hp motor. I went for the up grade and have had no problems since. I also b elieve that they had a bad batch of motors.