Craftsman Style Bed

[Mike Hollis]

So the wife was surfing around the interwebs and found this bed, and wants me to build one similar to it.

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So it will be made out of QWSO, assuming I can find a local source of 16/4 for the posts. I guess my main question would be if the mullions should just be applied over a plywood back to simulate the look, or would I be better off going the more complex route of structural mullions and individual panels?

Additionally, the side rails connecting the headboard to the footboard will need to be wider so that they can keep our two twin sleep number mattresses from separating.

I have been trying to learn SU, but I don't really have the time to devote to it, so I am sticking to pencil, paper, and scale for now.

I appreciate any help,

Mike

[Mike Hollis]

So how do I get the attachment to embed in my posts?

[Dave Richards]

What is the attachment and where does it reside currently?

[Mike Hollis]

The attachment is a photo of the bed she wants (I uploaded the photo to SMC and then attached in my original post).

[Dave Richards]

Strange that it doesn't show. It's hard to answer your question but as a guess, I would be inclined to use a single plywood panel instead of a bunch of small panels and narrow frame members just to add some rigidity to the head and foot boards. I might change my mind after seeing the image.

[Mike Hollis]

Hosted it over on photobucket:

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x294/YJ-Mike/CraftsmanBedIII_zpsb228f784.jpg

[Dave Richards]

That'll do.

Three panels on the headboard, two at the foot ought to work fine.

If you had the time, this would be a good project to use to learn SketchUp but maybe the next one.

[Mike Hollis]

Thanks Dave, I appreciate the feedback. 3 panels and applied mullions would certainly make the project easier, and should be more structurally sound. Waiting on a call back from the local specialty lumber store to see if they can get 16/4 QWSO.

[Jerry Miner]

I agree with Dave: 3 panels with applied muntins.

You don't have to find 16/4 stock for the legs. You can glue-up smaller boards and make things BETTER: with solid 16/4, you'll get--at best--two sides quater-sawn and two sides flat-sawn. You could glue-up from smaller stock and get all four sides quarter-sawn:

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[Mike Hollis]

I agree with Dave: 3 panels with applied muntins.

You don't have to find 16/4 stock for the legs. You can glue-up smaller boards and make things BETTER: with solid 16/4, you'll get--at best--two sides quater-sawn and two sides flat-sawn. You could glue-up from smaller stock and get all four sides quarter-sawn:

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Good point Jerry, I hadn't thought of that. Would take some pretty good precision to ensure the axial miters are exact, but should be to be done.

Should make the lumber cost a little less as well. Maybe 6/4 for the sub-parts for the posts?

I am looking for some help on sizing the rest of the pieces. For the topmost rail I was thinking 6/4 x 4", and the same for the bottom rail. For the rest I was thinking 3/4 x 2 1/2". I wanted to give the top and bottom rails some heft to carry the size of the posts into the rest of the design, and then 3/4" x 2 1/2" for the rest so it doesn't look overly chunky?

What do you all think?

Thanks,

Mike

[Jerry Miner]

Mike--

Here's another option for gluing up your legs--no mitering involved:

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As to sizing the parts: I think you're on the right track. Sketch-up is really useful here---it's easy to re-size the pieces and see what the results are before you actually build.

Post parts could be 4/4 if you want, 6/4 would work also, and provide more glue surface in the miter if you go that way.

[Mike Hollis]

So I have a little time on this project as we are headed to the West Coast to visit my parents and take the grandkids to Disney, San Diego Zoo, etc. so I have been spending a little time learning sketchup. So far I have to two posts the top rail. Not very fast progress. I did add Wudworx mortise and tenon plugin to make the process a little easier. Was $7 I think.

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Will post more as I get further along in the design.

Thanks for all the help,

Mike

[Dave Richards]

Mike, the Wudworx plugins are excellent. You should have gotten the entire package. Enjoy your trip.

[Mike Hollis]

So still working on this design. Plan is to use domino's to atttach the upper-subrail to the upper rail. Both upper and lower rails will be M&T'd into the posts. But how should I go about attaching the stiles to the posts? Build sequence is build the entire headboard, the attach the posts on either side using domino's. Footboard will be done similarly.

Anyone see any issues with this?

Thanks again,

Mike

[Jerry Miner]

That sequence makes sense to me, but you'll need to be careful to get a good clean fit of stile-to-post as it will be difficult to clamp this connection anywhere but at the overall outside (i.e. you can't clamp the individual stiles to the post, at least not easily--there is potentially a little purchase for a clamp at the exposed edge of the stile). You could add Dominoes or biscuits or a spline here to help keep everything lined up.

[Mike Hollis]

So with a little help from Dave Richards (much appreciated Dave), I have been able to progress the design for the headboard to this point so far. What is left is to insert the 1/4" plywood panels, then apply the mullions. The footboard will be much easier to do as it is less complex. I know that my methods with SU so far aren't the most efficient, but it is getting the job done. Efficiency will come with more experience with the program.

You might recall that the siderails to connect head and foot have to be taller to keep our twin mattresses from separating. Would they look funny as through tenons?

Thanks for all the feedback,

Mike


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[Jerry Miner]

Through tenons would look fine, IMHO, but unless you are building this in the room where it will live forever, don't you want to be able to dis-assemble for transport? (Can you get that thing through a bedroom door?) Maybe think about bed bolts or bed rail brackets so the headboard and footboard can be disconnected from the side rails.

[Dave Richards]

Good work, Mike.

And yes, efficiency comes with practice.

[Mike Hollis]

Through tenons would look fine, IMHO, but unless you are building this in the room where it will live forever, don't you want to be able to dis-assemble for transport? (Can you get that thing through a bedroom door?) Maybe think about bed bolts or bed rail brackets so the headboard and footboard can be disconnected from the side rails.

Good point about disassembly Jerry. I can always make faux through tenons for appearances.

[Chad Bender]

Another even easier alternative for the legs is the lapped-miter router bit set sold by Infinity. I have one and use it with excellent results for just this purpose. It's expensive, and really falls into the category of "I just want to get this done so throw $$$ at the problem", but is a one time investment.

http://www.infinitytools.com/1_2-Shank-Lapped-Miter-Joint-Set/productinfo/55-505/

[Tom Bier]

Mike--

Here's another option for gluing up your legs--no mitering involved:

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As to sizing the parts: I think you're on the right track. Sketch-up is really useful here---it's easy to re-size the pieces and see what the results are before you actually build.

Post parts could be 4/4 if you want, 6/4 would work also, and provide more glue surface in the miter if you go that way.

I built a craftsman styled bed a couple years back and would use this style of leg construction for another build. (It is authentic to early Gus Stickley, too. Note that the veneer is something like 1/8 - 3/16" thick.) I made my legs one piece since the piece I used as a pattern had one piece legs and I came across a piece of red oak large enough. Red oak was a pita, but it came out ok. The remainder was QSWO in 6/4 for headboard, footboard and side rails; and 4/4 for simple slats in the headboard. Head & foot board rail joints were mortise, tenon, and pegged into the legs. Side rails were attached with bed rail brackets so it can be moved.