M16 Blade Tensioning...

[Derek Arita]

It's been years since I used my M16 and I forgot how to tension the blade. I think it's a 154" blade and I have a tension gauge, but again, I forgot how to use it. Can anyone who has an M16 give me some advice?

[Gus Dundon]

Make sure to install the blade properly. Next thing, tighten the blade with the knob and pluck
it like a guitar string. Then , listen to the tone of the blade.
Try to read this blog : http://bandsawblog.com/blade-tension/ . Hope that helps you.

[David Kumm]

The new MM16 will tension any blade you put on up to a 1.25" Lenox Trimaster. The old ones will handle less. If your gauge is an Iturra, Lennox, or Starrett you mount it and make sure the bottom is loaded o the dial is starting to move. Set the dial to 0 and then start to tension. Nothing will move for several turns and then will move up quickly. Tension to 25000 if using a carbide or bimetal blade, check the scale for future reference and start the saw and then shut off to check the tracking. Then you can play with the machine and determine what tension seems to work with what blade. Each blade will register differently so either memorize or mark the scale. I just put the gauge on when I tension. Dave

[Ron Kanter]

Before tensioning the blade move the guides out of the way. Setting the guides is the last thing to be done.
Narrow blades such as 1/4" or 3/8" ride in the center of the tire. Large blades ride with the teeth extending out from the tire.
I would NOT turn the saw on to check the tracking! Turn it by hand going backwards first so you can be sure the teeth don't hit anything. If it moves freely, then turn it by hand in the direction it is supposed to turn. Look at the position of the blade to make sure it is staying where you put it. If it is moving to the back edge or front edge of the wheel/tire, use the tracking knob on the back side of the housing to correct the movement. Only turn the tracking knob a little at a time unless the blade is scooting across the wheel.

Once the blade stays in place when turned by hand, then close up the saw and turn it on for just a second. Open the upper door and see if it stayed put. If so try it again for a few seconds. If it still is where you put it, it is time to set up the blade guides and get to work.
Good luck. They are great saws, but a little scary until you get the routine down.

[Phillip Dejardin]

+1 on checking the tracking by hand…

It does take a 154" blade. I put a piece of blue painters tape on the tensioning wheel and count the number of turns it takes to its final tension, whatever's appropriate for the blade you're using, and mark it down somewhere. I use sticky notes. De-tension the same number of turns when you're done for the day and you're all set for next time - no need for getting the tension meter out each time.

There's also a locking lever on the tracking knob – lefty loosey, righty tighty. Mine's a little temperamental and often needs persuasion.

Mini Max also has a setup video that you might find useful - http://www.minimax-usa.com/index.php?option=com_seyret&Itemid=&task=videodirectlink&id=8

[Chris Padilla]

I tension to about a 1/4" deflection. Works fine for me on my MM20.