Bandsaw foot brake - Is it worth the extra money? [Archive]

Prashun Patel

01-16-2013, 10:37 AM

Larry, I have the 514X2, and it has a foot brake. I do appreciate it. If I'm making different cuts that require resetting the fence or cleaning off the table, it's nice to be able to quickly stop the blade. If I did not have the brake, I would probably be tempted to mess with the table and fence while the blade was spinning down. That's certainly doable, but knowing myself, the foot brake means a little more safety for the lazy (read, me).

Ken Fitzgerald

01-16-2013, 10:42 AM

Larry,

My MM-16 has a foot brake and I use it regularly because I can activate it without taking my eyes off my hands or moving my hands.

Jeff Duncan

01-16-2013, 10:44 AM

I also like having brakes on machines when I can. However the decision on value is a personal one based on preference. I will say I think they're more important on some machines than others and on a bandsaw in a one man shop doing occasional work....certainly not a necessity......IMHO;)

good luck,
JeffD

Larry Browning

01-16-2013, 10:47 AM

My only experience with a bandsaw is my dad's old shopsmith attachment saw. It stops spinning in only a 3-4 seconds without a stop feature. How long does it take on a real saw to stop?

Jamie Buxton

01-16-2013, 10:53 AM

My only experience with a bandsaw is my dad's old shopsmith attachment saw. It stops spinning in only a 3-4 seconds without a stop feature. How long does it take on a real saw to stop?

My Laguna LT16HD takes quite a while to spin down without the footbrake -- a half minute or so. I almost always use the footbrake. However, if I had to pay $150 for it, I probably wouldn't buy it. You can always stop the blade with a piece of scrap.

Larry Browning

01-16-2013, 10:54 AM

Larry,

My MM-16 has a foot brake and I use it regularly because I can activate it without taking my eyes off my hands or moving my hands.
Your comment seems to imply that you can activate the brake without turning off the power. If that were true, I can see how that would be handy to reposition my work without power down and up.

Eugene Knopp

01-16-2013, 11:02 AM

I have a Laguna with a footbrake also and I almost always use the foot brake (it has an integrated kill switch so I don't have to use the stop button). Otherwise the blade keeps spinning for quite some time. It was one of the features I specifically wanted in my bandsaw.

Steve Peterson

01-16-2013, 11:03 AM

My only experience with a bandsaw is my dad's old shopsmith attachment saw. It stops spinning in only a 3-4 seconds without a stop feature. How long does it take on a real saw to stop?

I have an 18" Minimax S45 bandsaw with cast iron wheels. It probably takes 10-15 seconds to wind down. There is a lot of rotating mass that wants to keep spinning. I sometimes jam a scrap of wood into the blade if I want to stop it quicker. I would pay $150 for a blade brake.

Smaller saws and especially ones with aluminum wheels would stop much quicker.

Steve

Jon McElwain

01-16-2013, 11:06 AM

Your comment seems to imply that you can activate the brake without turning off the power. If that were true, I can see how that would be handy to reposition my work without power down and up.

Foot brakes have a micro switch that turns the machine off. So, if you activate the foot brake, the machine powers down.

I have a Laguna 14SUV with a foot brake. Nice feature because I can stop the machine much quicker than just letting it spool down. The larger the machine and the heavier the wheels, the more important the brake seems to be. Once you get those large wheels spinning, they have a lot of momentum and take a long time to wind down. I am thankful for my foot brake if for no other reason than it broke my bad habit of putting a scrap piece of wood in the blade to stop it spinning sooner!

Dan Hintz

01-16-2013, 11:09 AM

My Laguna LT16HD takes quite a while to spin down without the footbrake -- a half minute or so.
Same thing with my 18" Jet... a good 30 seconds, give or take. I'm a hobbyist, but having worked with the saw for a couple of years now, I'd gladly pay the $150 to get a brake. I'm impatient when it comes to things like that.

Stephen Cherry

01-16-2013, 11:13 AM

If you ever mess up, and the blade gets out of position, you'll be really happy to have the foot brake.

As a related comment, be really careful with cutting round stuff with the bandsaw.

Larry Browning

01-16-2013, 11:18 AM

It appears that I have a couple more choices in brakes for the model. They also have one that seems to have some sort of electronic brake that will stop the saw in 3-4 seconds from power off. They have that one with or without the foot brake for $200 more. I am not opposed to paying that much more if it is a useful feature. This is probably going to be the last bandsaw I will ever buy, so I don't want any regrets because of 200 bucks.

Larry Browning

01-16-2013, 11:27 AM

Foot brakes have a micro switch that turns the machine off. So, if you activate the foot brake, the machine powers down.

Ahh! the foot brake also is a kill switch. Well, the brake thing is looking a little more handy. I can see how that would be the normal way to turn off the machine. I have to reach all the way over to the headstock to turn off the power on the shopsmith, which means I have to not only release my hands, but also take my eye of the moving blade. That sounds much safer.
I am not sure that the fancier electronic brake would be much better than the manual one though.

Mark Ashmeade

01-16-2013, 11:27 AM

Ken Fitzgerald

01-16-2013, 11:49 AM

Larry,

Yes...the footbrake also drops out power.

While I never have my hands/fingers in direct line with the saw blade, if they are close, I can step on the footbrake pedal, without taking my eyes off my hands. It kills power and the blade stops as fast as I want determined by how hard I push down on the pedal. It doesn't take any effort to stop it instantly.

David Kumm

01-16-2013, 11:50 AM

A standard footbrake with a micro switch is the way to go. Injection brakes are more than you need and expensive to replace. Some saws recommend the foot brake to kill the power as the micro switch lasts longer than the regular one. Dave

Larry Browning

01-16-2013, 12:19 PM

Larry, if the extra couple hundred is not that significant, have you thought about getting the G0514 rather than the G0513? None of the G0513/4 range is over $1495, and the G0514 is a 19" saw. I have a G0513P, which I got when it first came out, and was significantly cheaper. I don't miss the brake, cast trunnions, or any other feature I don't have. But if there had been a G0514P, I'd have bought the larger saw without question.
My problem is that $100 here and $200 there starts to add up. At this point I am really leaning toward wanting the brake, so if I went with the G0514 I would start to get into a lot more money. I also think that the 513 has all the features I want.

Peter Quinn

01-16-2013, 12:21 PM

My saw has a foot break and I find its quite handy though not critical. I wish my TS had a break like the newer euro saws, there it would be a real sensible safety feature. On the BS I often cut templates which involve stop cuts, and its real nice to be able to stop the blade quickly without letting go of the work . I hate backing out of a BS kerf under power, I've sent blades flying off the wheels that way before. The other day I was setting up a new resaw blade, and I had to make a lot of minor adjustments each of which involved stops and starts. Remembering the last saw which had no break, I used to leave a blade on way longer than I should or leave the wrong blade for the cut I was making just to avoid all that time during set up. So for me the breakup well worth $150. Even on my most relaxed shop day I don't like watching the wheels slowly spin to a stop so I can adjust the tracking a touch and try again. And if I've messed up the tracking it's nice to be able to stop the wheels before the blade flies off.

Carl Beckett

01-16-2013, 12:50 PM

I think it's a user safety improvement.

If I have a foot brake, I stand there with my foot on it until everything has stopped.

If no break, I start going off to do other things (which takes my focus off a moving blade, never a good idea)

I would (and have) paid for the brake

Larry Browning

01-16-2013, 1:46 PM

Thanks for all the replies. I now have a much better understanding of the foot break. I have pretty much decided to get the G0513x2F. That is the one with the manual foot brake. I think it adds $155 to the price, but it sounds like it is well worth it. It also sounds like it would be quite a hassle, if not impossible, to add it on at a later time

Mark Ashmeade

01-16-2013, 2:03 PM

I'm sure you'll be very happy with it. I am with mine.

Dan Hintz

01-16-2013, 2:17 PM

An "electronic brake" is more than likely the VFD itself using a brake resistor... pretty much every lathe that uses a VFD has a similar setup. All things considered, it's probably as good (or nearly so) as a physical foot brake.

Also, if you don't want to reach around to shut the saw off, consider adding a second switch close to where you would normally stand (though to be honest, you shouldn't be standing in a position that puts you that far away from the original switch in the first place).

Gus Dundon

01-16-2013, 3:28 PM

You can get benefits in having band saw foot brake. With foot brake, you can control
or you have the option to stop the bandsaw from spinning down after making a cut . It's
very useful .You may consider it also as safety precautions as foot brake can be operated
without hands , when you step on it, the power turns off.

Gus

Kevin Bourque

01-16-2013, 3:29 PM

You never realize how nice a foot brake is until you snap a 3/4" blade.

Larry Browning

01-16-2013, 3:51 PM

Also, if you don't want to reach around to shut the saw off, consider adding a second switch close to where you would normally stand (though to be honest, you shouldn't be standing in a position that puts you that far away from the original switch in the first place).

If you are familiar at all with the way a shopsmith is set up, the power switch is on the headstock, so when using the bandsaw, the power switch is 8-12 inches behind the saw. I almost always completely remove the workpiece from the table before I turn off the saw. Pretty inconvenient, and can be a safety hazard. I am SOOOO looking forward to getting a real band saw!

Chris Padilla

01-16-2013, 5:15 PM

My Laguna LT16HD takes quite a while to spin down without the footbrake -- a half minute or so. I almost always use the footbrake. However, if I had to pay $150 for it, I probably wouldn't buy it. You can always stop the blade with a piece of scrap.

I'm with Jamie...pretty pricey feature. My MM20 came with one and I use it every time but I wouldn't pony up that much scratch for it.

Peter Quinn

01-16-2013, 6:06 PM

You never realize how nice a foot brake is until you snap a 3/4" blade.

And when that happens, you stomp on that break with all you've got, only to realize it doesn't stop the top wheel, but at least you are 50% better off. At least thats been the though in my head while I've waited the 2 minutes or so for that free spinning top wheel to come to a complete stop so can asses the damage to my precious saw. That long spin down also affords me an opportunity to change my shorts.:rolleyes: So never get a break for the top wheel.

Gary Pennington

01-16-2013, 9:57 PM

I have the 513X2 and wish I had gotten the foot brake. It takes almost 30 seconds to stop, a VERY long time. I LOVE the saw, but hate the spin down time.

g

Ken Fitzgerald

01-16-2013, 10:35 PM

In the end, it really boils down to a matter of personal opinion and what makes you feel safe.

If you'd spend extra money for SS, why wouldn't you spend an extra $150 for a foot brake? Granted it's not the same but it still a quicker stop and safer IMHO.

Bruce Page

01-16-2013, 10:38 PM

To be honest a foot break is nice to have, but I almost never use mine.

Andrew Joiner

01-16-2013, 11:01 PM

I have a 21" Grizzly with the foot brake. The manual says " emergency brake" and I called Grizzly to verify this. They said it's not to be used all the time. I assume it has brake pads that wear out pretty easy.

I use the brake to stop the saw when I need to if I'm in in a tight situation. On most cuts after my hands are clear I use the stop switch and let it coast down. Takes about a minute.

Joe Mioux

01-17-2013, 4:26 AM

I have a mm16 and like the brake. In practice I normally turn the machine off with the switch, but sometimes use the brake. It depends on what I am cutting. However, if ands when something goes wrong, I use the brake. Would I buy a saw with out a brake? No.

i like the safety feature and convenience it offers in slowing the blade down in a timely manner.

Larry Browning

01-17-2013, 9:20 AM

Jim O'Dell

01-17-2013, 10:45 AM

The foot brake was one of the requirements when I got my BS. The MiniMax E16 was the first saw price wise at that time that had it. I use it to turn the saw off about 90% of the time, even if I'm not using it to stop the blade. And it doesn't have to be a 3/4" blade that breaks were the shorts have to be changed! Not sure I'd like the electronic version.
Larry, have you asked them how long it would be to get the manual brake unit? When I ordered my G0691 2 years ago, it was going to be a while. Wasn't a big deal to me at that time because I had lots to do to get ready for it. They found one that someone backed out on, and sent it to me. So it might or might not be a long wait. I'd call and see when the warehouse closest to you expects another shipment and then decide which one to go for. Jim.

Art Mulder

01-17-2013, 12:33 PM

Hmmm?? When checking availability on Grizzly's web site the G0513X2F(manual brake) is not available for shipping to my zip code at this time, but the G0513X2BF(electronic brake) is. It is only $50 more. It might be worth $50 to not have to worry about it being on back order.

Now you've gone from $150 more to $200 more...right? It adds up!

Before I bought my big BS, I thought a brake was a good idea, but I really wasn't sure, since a small 14" BS was my only previous experience.

Then I had the choice taken away from me when I stumbled on a "You Suck" quality deal for a 2nd hand Grizzly G0513X. This is a 17" BS with no brake.

I've never really missed it. As a hobbyist, speed is not typically a huge deal. As well, I try to make proper use of the blade guards, so a minimal amount of blade is exposed at any one time. Waiting 20-30 seconds for the blade to stop is not a huge deal. I have to do that on my Tablesaw already, so I am well practised in safely waiting for the dangerous bits to stop moving!

Typically I find that I'm either setting up to cut the next piece (ie: with the same fence setting) so I don't need to make any adjustment, or I'm usually taking the work somewhere else for the next step in the process, in which case there is no time "lost" waiting for the saw to come to a stop. The times where I make a cut and then need to move the fence to make another cut are not that often. And like I said, as a hobbyist I can wait a moment in those situations.

Larry, feel free to make your own purchase decisions. But I thought I should provide at least one dissenting opinion to all the others out there. :D

Larry Browning

01-17-2013, 1:17 PM

Now you've gone from $150 more to $200 more...right? It adds up!

Before I bought my big BS, I thought a brake was a good idea, but I really wasn't sure, since a small 14" BS was my only previous experience.

Then I had the choice taken away from me when I stumbled on a "You Suck" quality deal for a 2nd hand Grizzly G0513X. This is a 17" BS with no brake.

I've never really missed it. As a hobbyist, speed is not typically a huge deal. As well, I try to make proper use of the blade guards, so a minimal amount of blade is exposed at any one time. Waiting 20-30 seconds for the blade to stop is not a huge deal. I have to do that on my Tablesaw already, so I am well practised in safely waiting for the dangerous bits to stop moving!

Typically I find that I'm either setting up to cut the next piece (ie: with the same fence setting) so I don't need to make any adjustment, or I'm usually taking the work somewhere else for the next step in the process, in which case there is no time "lost" waiting for the saw to come to a stop. The times where I make a cut and then need to move the fence to make another cut are not that often. And like I said, as a hobbyist I can wait a moment in those situations.

Larry, feel free to make your own purchase decisions. But I thought I should provide at least one dissenting opinion to all the others out there. :D
Art,
Thanks for the comments. I also only have experience with a small BS. Mine is even smaller than the 14". At this point, I think the idea of being able to turn it off without moving my hands is more appealing than the quicker stopping. But then I did a simple test in my mind and imagined having a work piece at the saw. I started counting down 30 seconds. Man, that is really a long time having to wait for the blade to stop. Plus, I am funding this purchase from the profits of a project I am building, and I do have a little buffer. Of course I could get some more blades for the saw with that extra $150.... What to do? What to do? It's a good problem to have!:D

David Kumm

01-17-2013, 3:28 PM

Jim Stewart

01-17-2013, 3:39 PM

I have a Laguna 16HD. I always shut the saw off with the foot brake. I almost always bring the blade to a complete stop with the footbrake. Safety habits are smart and once they become automatic they are painless (pun intended?) My bandsaw is up there as my favorite power tool. The bandsaw is a fairly safe tool if the guard is kept low. One of the great things about the saw is its ability to resaw, but that means the guard is up high. I want to stop that blade when the cut is done and I want it stopped fast.

Jon McElwain

01-17-2013, 3:58 PM

The only thing I have against foot brakes is that when you use it, you find yourself trying to balance on one foot while standing near a rapidly moving flesh eating blade. I use my foot brake 80% of the time or better, but I have to be honest and say that on occasion I have found the one foot brake dance a little precarious.

Larry Browning

01-17-2013, 4:22 PM

Larry, if you go the electronic brake route you need to ask Grizzly what the replacement cost is and what size the unit is and how many stops per hour the unit is rated for. DC injection brakes come in many sizes and are spec'd for a certain number of stops of a certain number of seconds and are often undersized for real world use. Hobby guys tend to turn off their machines more than commercial shops where everything runs all the time. They are often the first piece of electric to fail. Dave
That's a good point. That extra $50 I spend just to get the saw a little sooner, might translate into a much bigger number in a few years! I know I really don't want or need the electronic brake, I was just thinking if I could get the saw a month sooner, it might be worth the extra $50.
And who knows? They might have the other saw in stock by the time I place the order in a few weeks.

Dan Hintz

01-17-2013, 4:44 PM

Larry, if you go the electronic brake route you need to ask Grizzly what the replacement cost is and what size the unit is and how many stops per hour the unit is rated for.

All of the VFD-based lathes brake this way... if the number of stops/hour is too small for your taste, replace the braking resistor with one of a higher wattage. Should cost you $5, give or take.

David Kumm

01-17-2013, 5:50 PM

All of the VFD-based lathes brake this way... if the number of stops/hour is too small for your taste, replace the braking resistor with one of a higher wattage. Should cost you $5, give or take.

I wasn't aware that a Grizzly bandsaw was operated with a vfd. Given the mass of the wheels it would take some amperage to operate. Not sure $5 will do it. The brakes on my saws and shapers go from 200-500. Dave

Dan Hintz

01-17-2013, 7:05 PM

I wasn't aware that a Grizzly bandsaw was operated with a vfd. Given the mass of the wheels it would take some amperage to operate. Not sure $5 will do it. The brakes on my saws and shapers go from 200-500. Dave

What are they using for electronic brakes (unless that means an electronically-actuated physical brake and not a reverse-current setup)? Now that you mention it, running a BS with a VFD does seem a bit overkill since you don't need the speed control, but now I'm at a loss as to what they mean by "electronic braking"...

David Kumm

01-17-2013, 7:51 PM

What are they using for electronic brakes (unless that means an electronically-actuated physical brake and not a reverse-current setup)? Now that you mention it, running a BS with a VFD does seem a bit overkill since you don't need the speed control, but now I'm at a loss as to what they mean by "electronic braking"...

I assumed DC injection brake- Solbrake, Versibrake, Powerdrive, Moeller, etc. Dave

Scott Haddix

01-17-2013, 10:10 PM

I purchased the exact model you are looking at, but did not pay the extra for the foot brake. I have regretted that decision many, many times.

Larry Browning

02-07-2013, 9:20 PM

Well, I ordered the G0513X2F (The one with the foot brake) When I was researching it was the only G0513X2 that was on backorder, but by the time I was ready to order It was back in stock (YEA!!!!) Well it arrived today(yea again!!). But since there is no way an 18 wheeler is going to get here and unload anywhere near my shop, I decided to pick it up at the terminal. Oh, but wait, it seems the terminal is in a town 50 miles from my house(Boo!!!) I really don't mind, I am so excited. Then on the way it starts raining(Boooo!!!) Maybe it will quit before I get there, and besides, I'll bet it's all boxed up and wrapped in plastic. So I get there, and the thing is packed in an open wooden frame the saw is loosely covered with plastic. AND it is raining cats and dogs!(double booooo!!!) I finally decided to just leave it and try again tomorrow. (Triple booo hoooo!!!) Tomorrow is supposed to be clear and nice all day. I think I will take off at noon!