Can someone grab some quick Sawstop PCS dimensions?

[Matt Meiser]

I'm wondering if a couple Sawstop PCS owners could get me a couple dimensions before I unbox my fence? I bought the 36" fence but am maybe having second thoughts that maybe I should have gone with the 52", not because I need the fence capacity, but because my nice cabinet under my existing extension table might not fit.

Here's what I'm looking for--see the picture for visual clarification.

1) Height under the extension table from the floor to the bottom of the rail or table, whichever is lower.
2) Max available width between the legs and whatever you feel would be needed to operate the tilt crank.
3) Overall length from the end of the rail to the end of the rail.

Also, if you have the integrated mobile base if that changes #2, I'd appreciate

[Mark Ashmeade]

Matt, I built my own base (yet to build the drawer cabinet/router cabinet), so the height may be a bit off for you, but I make it 32". Pic below so you can see what I mean:

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The end of the rail protrudes a little beyond the table.

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The rail is just a shade over 85"

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With the magnetic end of the tape latched onto the end of the tilt wheel handle, I make it ~46". It's hard to see int he shot because of the parallax and the gloss finish of the table.

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For what it's worth, I've had mine for 6 months, and used the wider rip capacity quite a few times. If you have the capability, you can/will use it. If you don't, you'll find other ways of accomplishing the task. I'm very pleased I got the longer rails.

[Prashun Patel]

Roughly:

1: 31"
2: 29"
3: 69" (rail end to end; the sawtop + extension tableis about 68")
(4: Distance from support leg to end of right side of extension table: about 8")

[Chris Padilla]

1: 36
2: 24
3: 36

[Matt Meiser]

For what it's worth, I've had mine for 6 months, and used the wider rip capacity quite a few times. If you have the capability, you can/will use it. If you don't, you'll find other ways of accomplishing the task. I'm very pleased I got the longer rails.

That's a nice looking base. I've finally figured out a great workflow when working with sheet goods that pretty much has me using my Festool saw, rails, and MFT for sheet goods other than a quick utility cut. In the past I'd have gone for the 52" in a heartbeat but after seeing it I wasn't sure I wanted to take up the extra room or spend the extra $100.

It looks like I should be able to squeeze my cabinet in there--worst case I'll have to change how the legs mount or come up with my own.

[Mark Ashmeade]

Thanks! The legs will be going when I put the cabinet under there; I'll use the cabinet to support the table. I'm suffering a bit of decision paralysis on the best way to design the cabinet, but I'll get there.

[mreza Salav]

So is this a gloat coming? Congrat's!
Even though I don't use the 52" rip capacity very often I love the extra space to place all the pieces to be cut or already cut in order.
The whole table top can be used as a small assembly table too.

[Kevin Womer]

Matt,
I went with the 36. I recently made a cabinet underneath mine as well (it's only about 16 inches wide). If you went with the industrial base, the wheels stick out a little giving you less room. I think the standard base might give a few more inches. Like previously stated, you will use the extra capacity when you can, but find other ways to compensate when you need to with the smaller fence.

[Mark Ashmeade]

Very nice Kevin. I'm thinking of something similar, with router cabinet to the right.

[Matt Meiser]

Nice cabinet Kevin.

My last 2 saws have had about 40-42" max by adjusting the fence rail to the right. Like everyone has said you find ways to get by but I've not really needed to get by since figuring out my Festool system. I saw my friend's 52" saw this evening and its HUGE. I'm going to stick with the 36 and either adapt things or app rebuild my cabinet if I have to. It seems like I could make my own legs or adap theirs and get several inches back.

Im using the professional base. My friend had one he wasn't using due to the need to raise his saw to match all the surfaces in his shop. As a result I got a nice price break on a practically new base.

[Jim O'Dell]

Matt, so what if the cabinet stuck out past the end of the extension table? Would that be the end of the world? For that matter, if it bothered you, then build a new extension table that is long enough to cover the cabinet. Nothing says the rails have to go all the way to the end of the extension table!!
With that said, I love my 52" rails. In fact, I moved them down so I have about 65" rip and made a new extension table to match the length. 251351251352 Will I use it? Not very often, but the space would just be open if I didn't have it that way, so I might as well use it for the table saw instead of having a wider than needed walk space. Jim.

[Matt Meiser]

I wouldn't care if it stuck out, I just need a way to support the extension table--which for that matter could actually rest on top of the cabinet instead of legs.

[Larry Frank]

I have the industrial mobile base on my PCS and absolutely love it. I did make a very solid box to put in the base and then the saw on top of that. I wanted the top of the saw higher as it is easier on my back.

[Matt Meiser]

I got the saw assembled tonight and the front leg would definitely get in the way of my cabinet. I think i might be able to drill new holes and move it closer to the end. I might not even really need the front leg. The back one will be behind my cabinet and I can stick a block in on top of the cabinet to prevent tipping if someone should lean or sit on the table.

[Brett Robson]

1: 36
2: 24
3: 36

Those are great dimensions! ;)

[Prashun Patel]

Yes, rest it on the cabinet. Those legs are flimsy.

[Matt Meiser]

Those legs are flimsy.

+1. Not any better/worse than the old Biesemeyers though.

What I might do in the light of day, is make up a new bracket with their legs that bolts to the end of the extension table. If I do that, I'm adding a stretcher between the legs too. And I'll weld the whole new leg assembly together for rigidity.

[Art Mulder]

... to prevent tipping if someone should lean or sit on the table.

Come on Matt.... Lean? :rolleyes:

Sooner or later, you just know that someone is going to jump or climb or stand on that table.
Lean, he says. :p


It might even be you. (more likely the kids, or some random visitor, but you never know...)

...art

ps: Congrats on the saw. It's a shame to lose the lovely red paint job though, that was such a fine score of yours.

[Prashun Patel]

Matt,
I'm curious to hear your thoughts on the dust collection vs the Sharkguard. I preferred the Shark's dc. I think it's the puny port on the Sawstop. The worst is when doing trimming rips. I'd be curious to hear if you have a solution better than mine (wear dust mask).

[Matt Meiser]

Prashun, do you have the current generation (were there different ones?) A friend of mine claims it works great. He said it actually shoots dust out the port on the guard if he doesn't have the hose connected. And trimming where the blade isn't buried--even the Shark Guard does poorly there with even a 4" connection that's so big it usually sucks up small pieces. The velocity of the sawdust is just too high. Anyway, I'll know soon enough--just moved the saw into place but I need to figure out my plan to connect between the 4" drop above the saw and the 1-1/2" port on the guard.

My cabinet couldn't have worked out better. I have it flush with the end of the table and there's plenty of room to use the tilt handwheel. And the height couldn't have been much closer fit--it doesn't quite clear the bolt heads for the fence so I lifted the end of the saw 1/2" and slid it in, then set the saw back down. The bolt heads will keep it from creeping forward as it did before. I then slid a piece of scrap between the table and the fence angle and now I have really stable support. The back leg is still on there for if I ever move things around to keep someone (that would probably be me Art) from tipping it until I get the cabinet back in place.

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[mreza Salav]

Looks very nice fit.

I have a home made guard with 3" dust collection. My solution to dust escaping when trimming the end of a piece was to have an extra "wall" hanging from one side of the guard, using a gliding action. The following pictures show it (partly) along with my cross-cut sled:

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My problem now is that it has too much suction (connected to a clearVue) and sometimes small off-cuts get suck up and cause kick back (had such an incident).
I have a solution for that too but haven't had the time to implement it yet.

[Mark Smith, too]

Matt,

I have planned since I got my saw over a year ago to build a rolling cabinet for the very saw you have. I have the mobile base. The space available is 30 1/8 inches tall and 21 inches wide max.

Rail length is 69 inches.

[Jake Elkins]

Those are great dimensions! ;)

Only if she's 5'3" ;)