Which SawStop?

[Tony Maio]

I'm planning to upgrade from my TS3650 to a SawStop cabinet saw. I have 220v in my shop, but would just as soon go with the 115v model. Ripping 8/4 hardwood is probably the worst load I would put on the saw, a job that the 3650 usually (but not always) handles well enough. I'm assuming the SawStop's 1.75 hp would be up to the task, but would appreciate it if someone who has the 115v model would share his or her view on the subject. Thanks.

Tony

[Matt Meiser]

One point to consider, the 1.75HP model comes without the dust collecting blade guard. Adding that eats up about $139 of the difference. The guard for the 1.75HP model, frankly, looks like a piece of crap.

[Darius Ferlas]

I also have a TS3650 and I'm also looking for an upgrade, although it seems I have to do some penny pinching for a little longer.
If I were set on a SawStop I would follow Matt's recommendation. Much better dust collection.
I'm looking elsewhere though, so I am feeding my piggy bank towards a Hammer slider.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

The dealer recommended that for my uses, the 120 volt would suffice. The dealer felt that using a thin kerf blade would make that easier. Note that I already owned thin kerf blades, but I did not yet have 220 where I needed it.

This made the saw lighter, and I could have moved it to the basement alone with an appliance dolly, but using a second person just felt safer.... Three felt safer yet, but when I actually went to move it, the third person just watched.

The dealer recommendation was that I try the included blade guard and then purchase the dust collection blade guard if I felt that it would make a difference. I was able to purchase a used one, so I did that and I did not worry about it or use the non-dust-collecting blade guard. That said, I have heard people say that they love one and hate the other about both.

With the dust collecting blade guard, I have managed to suck thin strips up into the blade guard, and then I need to be creative about getting them out. Also, if I am very close to the edge so that one side of the blade guard is not nicely seated, I can still end up with significant dust on the table top. Won't happen with a regular cut, however.

At the end of the day, I am very happy with my purchase, but I have no idea what I am missing by not having the 220V version.

[mreza Salav]

Went from a 1.5HP contractor saw to a 3HP ICS sawstop. I think 1.75HP would be good for *most* situations but I would seriously want to up it to 3HP as I wanted it to be my last tablesaw purchase. I have had one incident where with a sharp think kerf rip blade while ripping 3" thick maple I almost managed to stall the saw (and going any slower it would burn the wood as the wood was very very hard). I don't think a weaker saw had any chance...That was only one occasion but I think while ripping thicker materials you'd get a better result with a saw that doesn't hesitate...

[Mark Ashmeade]

I went from a TS3660 to a PCS 3HP for similar reasons to mreza. Couldn't be happier. I haven't managed to stall it yet.

[Prashun Patel]

I'm tempted like others to say join the PCS 220v club - but I think that's just because that's what I have.
In truth, the 1.75 Jet hybrid I used to have worked fine in most situations. I think the thing you get with the 3hp machine is the confidence that your saw will handle anything your blade can reach. This happens more than I had originally anticipated.

When making a rocking chair on my 1.75hp, I had to cut the 3" pieces in 2 passes. This required some post cut cleanup, and cutting the first pass without the guard and just a splitter.

If that inconvenience is not a big deal, then the 1.75 might suffice for you. I do think though that the add'l power is something people appreciate only after they have it - rarely before.

[richard poitras]

Go big and you will not regret it. Also I prefer the option of thin and thick kerf blades and the use of a dado blade

[Clay Fails]

Mreza, I went the same route and have been very happy with the ICS. Well worth the price. I have found that the saw actually cuts better with regular full kerf blades, and have not been impressed with the thin kerf blades I had purchased and used with my 1 1/2 HP contractors saw.

[Robert Chapman]

I have the 1.75 hp SawStop. I work mostly with hard maple. It is possible to stall the saw particularly when cutting wood with major tension forces. I always have believed that such stalling saves me from experiencing dangerous kick back. I would rather burn a little wood than eat it. Just my two cents.

[Thomas L. Miller]

Tony,
I went from a Craftsman contractor saw to a 3hp ICS SawStop. I haven't found anything it won't cut smootly. It's also nice sometimes to have the larger table the ICS provides. I truly do love the SS!
Tom

[Tom Willoughby]

I went from the Ridgid table saw to the 3 HP Professional cabinet saw and haven't regretted it. I may have been OK with the 1.75 HP saw but I didn't want to have any regrets.

Tom

[Joe Mioux]

I have ics before pcs was offered. If possible go with the cabinet version over contractor version....that doesn't mean the latter is a bad saw, just upgrading to a cabinet saw is a more enjoyable to work with.....ie dust collection better etc

[Mike Heidrick]

Get the PCS or an ICS. Dont look back.