G0490 Eccentric Bushing: Spanner Wrench or Socket Size

[Brett Bobo]

What is the spanner wrench or spanner socket size for the eccentric bushings (part no. P0490103) on the G0490? I spoke to Grizzly technical service but they were unaware of the particular size.

Also, where can these be found locally, e.g. Sears, HD, etc.? I'm sure Mccaster Carr carries them but I'm trying to avoid the wait time. The Wood Whisperer has a video for for setting up a jointer and uses what appears to be a spanner socket, not a wrench, on his Powermatic jointer. A spanner socket would be my preference as I assume it also grabs the shoulders of the bushing to provide more leverage.

Thanks in advance,
Brett

[Bill Space]

Hi,

My first post here!

Grizzly has a video showing how to adjust the G4090 tables. They don't use a wrench, just a drift/punch to rotate the bushing. Worked well for me on the G4090X jointer I just received. You can easily find this video by visiting their web site. Worth a look...

Just remember to remove the set screws (which lock the bushings in place) before tapping the bushings to rotate them. Don't ask why I am telling you this...:eek:

Hope this helps...

Bill

[glenn bradley]

Agree, a drift punch or other rod of the right size goes in the notch (just under 1/8") and you tap it to turn very tiny amounts (after unlocking as Bill notes). These are not adjustments that you would swing even 90* at a time when adjusting. A spanner might be useful but, since you will only probably use it once in your lifetime, I would use a punch ;-) Also, I urge caution. Be sure that there is a very good reason for altering this adjustment. If you are altering table parallelism to correct for some other alignment problem, you will be in the soup pretty quick. What problem are you trying to correct?

[Brett Bobo]

Thanks guys but I've tried both a punch and an open-ended wrench and both booger up the bushings fairly easily. The spanner socket idea came to mind when I saw The Wood Whisperer's video, but in fact, he used a traditional socket. I assume that the eccentric bushings are fairly consistent in size and shape among manufacturers so I'm planning to give that a try. I think that'll allow me much better accuracy for adjustments as well.

Glenn,
Please reference my other post here (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?196516-Jointer-Problem-Results-in-boards-concave-up-along-their-lengths) as I've been drowning in the soup trying to achieve coplanarity and setting the knives. Even though I'm still not back up and running, I now have the necessary tools, i.e. straight edge and dial indicator, to hopefully get much better results.

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, Please reference my other post here (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?196516-Jointer-Problem-Results-in-boards-concave-up-along-their-lengths) as I've been drowning in the soup trying to achieve coplanarity and setting the knives. Even though I'm still not back up and running, I now have the necessary tools, i.e. straight edge and dial indicator, to hopefully get much better results.

Doh! Sorry about that Brett. I didn't mean to state the obvious :o. So, you already know what a slippery slope this can be. Fortunately, parallel-beds are pretty straight forward to adjust (compared to DT-way beds) once you have the tools. It concerns me that those eccentrics are that tough to move. They are just a sleeve/bushing. I know I may be preaching to the choir but, please be sure that the set screws were not doubled. That is; one set screw tightened against the bushing and then another run down in on top of it to lock in the first. It doesn't mention this in the manual but, I have run into it on other machines and it is easy enough to check.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Doh! Sorry about that Brett. I didn't mean to state the obvious :o. So, you already know what a slippery slope this can be. Fortunately, parallel-beds are pretty straight forward to adjust (compared to DT-way beds) once you have the tools. It concerns me that those eccentrics are that tough to move. They are just a sleeve/bushing. I know I may be preaching to the choir but, please be sure that the set screws were not doubled. That is; one set screw tightened against the bushing and then another run down in on top of it to lock in the first. It doesn't mention this in the manual but, I have run into it on other machines and it is easy enough to check.

In fact Glenn, the Grizzly video on adjusting the G0490X warns there is 2 set screws....one preventing the other from backing out.....

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Brett
I made my own spanner from 3/16" flat steel stock, for use on my Delta J20. Just find a drill bit that fits close to the slot size in your eccentric bushing. Drill two holes in the flat stock, just short of the outside diameter of your bushing. I used the same drill bit's shank end as one of the pins for the spanner. Tom

[Clay Fails]

This discussion is bringing back memories of when I was trying to adjust the beds on my DJ20, also a parallelogram style machine. Not sure of the age of the machine, as I purchased it used locally. The beds were not co-planer, and needed adjusement. I could NOT get the bushings to move, and yes I had backed out the set screws. I purchased Delta's spanner wrench, but it is a toy, not nearly stout enough when the bushings are "stuck". The drift punch method did not work, just "goobered up" the bushing, as has already been reported. I ended up using a pipe wrench, just barely able to grip the bushing projection. Ugly but it worked. And once set, those tables (mine at least) have not moved a micron.

[Mike Goetzke]

Thanks guys but I've tried both a punch and an open-ended wrench and both booger up the bushings fairly easily. The spanner socket idea came to mind when I saw The Wood Whisperer's video, but in fact, he used a traditional socket. I assume that the eccentric bushings are fairly consistent in size and shape among manufacturers so I'm planning to give that a try. I think that'll allow me much better accuracy for adjustments as well.

Glenn,
Please reference my other post here (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?196516-Jointer-Problem-Results-in-boards-concave-up-along-their-lengths) as I've been drowning in the soup trying to achieve coplanarity and setting the knives. Even though I'm still not back up and running, I now have the necessary tools, i.e. straight edge and dial indicator, to hopefully get much better results.

Brett - didn't have time to read your other post completely but I had a bear of a time adjusting one of these machines. What ended up being my problem was the factory installed too many shims under one of the pillow blocks. Originally my eccentrics could not get the tables parallel to each other & to the head. I also read somewhere that you should set the head not knives flat to the table (I have a Byrd head on mine). I'm convinced the procedure should be to first parallel the tables and then shim the head last. Oh, after my many hours (or days) of frustration I suggested they supply the spanner wrench.

Mike

[glenn bradley]

Brett, your PM inbox is full :). And yes that's the dial indicator I have.

[Ronald Blue]

Type in adjustable spanner wrench on Amazon. Probably one of the flat spanner wrenches would work. Thomas's idea is also a good solution. Dowel pins work good but not sure you can get a small quantity. The holes are likely metric so maybe use Allen head bolts drilled and tapped in the flat stock. Good luck.